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well... it might be a while before we move forward with it, kinda went broke, but will not get rid of it, but this will be our first time tackling anything like this, he and I both have bondo and paint experience, but actually replacing sheet metal is very new.
I just got an eerie feeling once I saw the exterior of this truck. I used to live outside Klamath Falls, OR when I was a kid, and we had some older farmer friends who lived nearby Keno out on Keno-Warden road, who owned a red slick VERY much like this one. Their last name started with an "H".
Did you purchase it near Keno, by chance? If so, I may have actually ridden in this truck as a kid, as I recall my Mom borrowed our friend's truck for a while during winter because our heater in our International Travelall didn't work at the time.
How crazy would that be???!!
Please let me know if this might be the same truck.
I just got an eerie feeling once I saw the exterior of this truck. I used to live outside Klamath Falls, OR when I was a kid, and we had some older farmer friends who lived nearby Keno out on Keno-Warden road, who owned a red slick VERY much like this one. Their last name started with an "H".
Did you purchase it near Keno, by chance? If so, I may have actually ridden in this truck as a kid, as I recall my Mom borrowed our friend's truck for a while during winter because our heater in our International Travelall didn't work at the time.
How crazy would that be???!!
Please let me know if this might be the same truck.
Weird spots (esp. roof) for it to rust like that.
I see you got some differeing advise on the rust - can I add mine?
I would find a different hood. For the time to replace - you'd save days of rust work. Plus then you'd have a never-rusted hood.
As for the roof, Grind it, then sandblast it if you can, then treat it with some sort of Phosphoric Acid Rust converter (Metal Ready, OSPHO, Naval Jelly, etc), then clean it REALLY well. Fill pits with a filler of your choice. On bare metal you should always spray an ETCH primer before your EPOXY. After you've sprayed EPOXY, block it with 240, then 320.
After my hood was soda blasted, minor metal work done and washed with Metal Conditioner it was shot with 2 coats of PPG DPLF Epoxy Primer. Then shot with 4 coats of a PPG K38 primer surfacer which was then blocked level before the color coat went on.
Weird spots (esp. roof) for it to rust like that.
I see you got some differeing advise on the rust - can I add mine?
I would find a different hood. For the time to replace - you'd save days of rust work. Plus then you'd have a never-rusted hood.
As for the roof, Grind it, then sandblast it if you can, then treat it with some sort of Phosphoric Acid Rust converter (Metal Ready, OSPHO, Naval Jelly, etc), then clean it REALLY well. Fill pits with a filler of your choice. On bare metal you should always spray an ETCH primer before your EPOXY. After you've sprayed EPOXY, block it with 240, then 320.
Good luck!
Apparently the truck sat in a barn for 30+ years under a loft that was accessed by goats and other animals. Their droppings fell through holes in the loft and unfortunately sat on the hood and cab for years. Nasty rust.
I am now looking for another hood and getting ready to fix the cab. What filler would you recommend? Thanks for the help.
After my hood was soda blasted, minor metal work done and washed with Metal Conditioner it was shot with 2 coats of PPG DPLF Epoxy Primer. Then shot with 4 coats of a PPG K38 primer surfacer which was then blocked level before the color coat went on.
Did you have pits in your hood to fill, and did you use a filler or did the several coats of primer fill the voids? Thanks for your help.
My hood had no rust on the outside surface but there was a spot on the inside surface where it seemed the paint was burned off.
The outside surface had a lot of filler that was removed during the soda blasting. Actually far more filler than needed so I started from scratch on the small dings. I used Evercoat Extreme on the dings as it has a thinner consistency, good for shallow imperfections and sands very easy.. The inside, where the area of pits were, the Extreme was also used. Sanded first with 180 to knock it down and finished by sanding with 400 grit. Then the epoxy went on right after that. Waited the required flash time and shot the K38 which I blocked the next day before the color went on.
Would have posted some photos of it but the photo upload isn't working at the moment as is typical when I need to use it half the time.
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