Computer problems!!!
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Computer problems!!!
Hi, I have an 07 F-150 FX2 that I have had computer problems out of since may, initially when I took it in they told me it was my fault due to an after market stereo system. I couldnt foot the 1300.00 bill to replace the computer at the time, and the truck seemed to run fine execpt for an ideal problem that rarely showed itself. (everyone thats heard it said it sounded like it was missing)
Now it seems its getting worse and doesnt have much power on the road so I bought a computer off a wrecked vehicle and tried switching them out, (parts numbers match) but it wont do anything with that one on not even turn over. Does the computer need to be cleared or reprogrammed by a dealer for it to work? Does this sound like the real problem here? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Now it seems its getting worse and doesnt have much power on the road so I bought a computer off a wrecked vehicle and tried switching them out, (parts numbers match) but it wont do anything with that one on not even turn over. Does the computer need to be cleared or reprogrammed by a dealer for it to work? Does this sound like the real problem here? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Sick 'n Tired
Joined: May 2006
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From: League City, TX
I doubt you caused any problems due to an aftermarket stereo system. Yes, the computer must be programmed by the dealer in order to work, but it doesn't sound to me like you have a PCM failure issue. Is the check engine light on? Can you pull the codes? Even if the engine light isn't on there still might be some pending codes that could help us identify your problem.
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The check engine light is'nt on, I recently took it to another dealership an hour away(dealership I bought it from) and they told me they hooked it up to the computer and there were no codes so there was nothing wrong. Practicly told me that if there was anything wrong with it the check engine light would come on, and until then I guess everytime it starts acting up Im imagining it.
Im so sick of dealing with dealerships, it would be easier to take it to a mechanic and pay for it than to keep getting the run around from these crooks at the dealerships.(sorry had to vent a little)
Im so sick of dealing with dealerships, it would be easier to take it to a mechanic and pay for it than to keep getting the run around from these crooks at the dealerships.(sorry had to vent a little)
Sick 'n Tired
Joined: May 2006
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From: League City, TX
Can you expound on the problems your experiencing? You say it has no power? Is it hesitating? How many miles does it have on it?
If its not throwing codes I'd suggest doing all the simple maintenance if you haven't yet. Clean/replace the air filter, clean the MAF sensor, replace the fuel filter if it has more than 15K miles on it, change oil making sure to use a Motorcraft filter.
If its not throwing codes I'd suggest doing all the simple maintenance if you haven't yet. Clean/replace the air filter, clean the MAF sensor, replace the fuel filter if it has more than 15K miles on it, change oil making sure to use a Motorcraft filter.
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I guess the only way I could explain the lack of power that Im experiencing is that its missing on one cylinder, Im not much with engines and just going by what others have said that have rode with me when it occurred. At a higher RPM its unnoticable and the only way Ive found to stop it from sputtering when at idle is to rev it up a little. When at highway speeds I can slowly speed up and it sounds like its just bogged down( I know this prolly makes no sense)
When it initially screwed up it sounded the same way except a LOT worse, it was only firing on the right side of the motor. The entire left bank was not firing.
The truck has right at 30,000 miles, Im gonna try changing filters tomorrow but the only one that hasnt been changed recently is the fuel filter.
Thanks for the help any other ideas are greatly appreciated, this truck has gotten me so stressed lately.
When it initially screwed up it sounded the same way except a LOT worse, it was only firing on the right side of the motor. The entire left bank was not firing.
The truck has right at 30,000 miles, Im gonna try changing filters tomorrow but the only one that hasnt been changed recently is the fuel filter.
Thanks for the help any other ideas are greatly appreciated, this truck has gotten me so stressed lately.
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Sick 'n Tired
Joined: May 2006
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From: League City, TX
Mass Air Flow sensor. The MAF sensor uses a hot wire sensing element to measure the amount of air entering the engine. Air passing over the hot wire causes it to cool. This hot wire is maintained at 200°C (392°F) above the ambient temperature as measured by a constant cold wire. If the hot wire electronic sensing element must be replaced, then the entire assembly must be replaced. Replacing only the element may change the air flow calibration.
The current required to maintain the temperature of the hot wire is proportional to the mass air flow. The MAF sensor then outputs an analog voltage signal to the PCM proportional to the intake air mass. The PCM calculates the required fuel injector pulse width in order to provide the desired air/fuel ratio. This input is also used in determining transmission electronic pressure control (EPC), shift and torque converter clutch scheduling.
Sometimes, especially if you've got an aftermarket oiled filter, the wire element will get gummed up. Just take some electrical contact cleaner and wipe them off.
The current required to maintain the temperature of the hot wire is proportional to the mass air flow. The MAF sensor then outputs an analog voltage signal to the PCM proportional to the intake air mass. The PCM calculates the required fuel injector pulse width in order to provide the desired air/fuel ratio. This input is also used in determining transmission electronic pressure control (EPC), shift and torque converter clutch scheduling.
Sometimes, especially if you've got an aftermarket oiled filter, the wire element will get gummed up. Just take some electrical contact cleaner and wipe them off.
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With 30,000 miles on it should still be covered by the 3yr./36000 mile bumper to bumper warranty. By all means take it in to a dealership and have it diagnosed. If you aren't happy with that dealer, try another and don't be afraid to ask for them to put a data logger in if they don't find anything the 1st time in.
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Ive already took it to one and they said there were no codes so there was nothin wrong, its an hour drive to any others and I figured they would tell me the same thing. That bumper to bumper warranty is a bunch of bull. Ive had to take it in for two other things, a window switch and shift **** problems and they gave me crap for both those for a while and then finally changed them.(only after I called and complained to Ford, if that had anything to do with it)
Like I said, Im just sick of dealing with them, its sad when I would rather pay to fix it than to put up with more of their lies.
Guess I can make a trip or two to another dealership, sucks spending what few days off I get running around the countryside for the same problem.
Like I said, Im just sick of dealing with them, its sad when I would rather pay to fix it than to put up with more of their lies.
Guess I can make a trip or two to another dealership, sucks spending what few days off I get running around the countryside for the same problem.
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From: NC
Tyler - your dealer might be a PITA (and I know it's a PITA to drive an hour to another dealer), but just as you figured out, there are ways to communicate with Ford directly and bypass the dealer. The contact numbers and addresses are in the Owner's manual.
If I were you (this is an opinion) I would go to another dealer with all the documentation from the previous dealer. I would also contact Ford and tell them about your dealings with your current dealer, especially if you have proof that they are lying to or have lied to you. Another thought is to take it to an independent dealer or Autozone and ask them to scan for codes or put a data logger on it (as Greg suggested). If there is really a problem, then Ford might reimburse you for the independent dealer's labor.
It's critical that you fully document all visits, results, dates, names, repairs, etc. This kind of documentation forces Ford to look at your case a little more closely.
Good luck and keep us informed.
Edit: One last piece of advice. Maintain your cool when talking to Ford and the dealer (either one). Being persistent will help; getting colorful and angry will not.
If I were you (this is an opinion) I would go to another dealer with all the documentation from the previous dealer. I would also contact Ford and tell them about your dealings with your current dealer, especially if you have proof that they are lying to or have lied to you. Another thought is to take it to an independent dealer or Autozone and ask them to scan for codes or put a data logger on it (as Greg suggested). If there is really a problem, then Ford might reimburse you for the independent dealer's labor.
It's critical that you fully document all visits, results, dates, names, repairs, etc. This kind of documentation forces Ford to look at your case a little more closely.
Good luck and keep us informed.
Edit: One last piece of advice. Maintain your cool when talking to Ford and the dealer (either one). Being persistent will help; getting colorful and angry will not.
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I got some time off comin in a week, so Im gonna try out another dealership, maybe get it to an autozone before then if possible.
Thanks everyone for the help, I felt like I was at a dead end.
Ill keep yall updated when I find anything out.(may be a little bit)
Thanks everyone for the help, I felt like I was at a dead end.
Ill keep yall updated when I find anything out.(may be a little bit)
Sick 'n Tired
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,969
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From: League City, TX
No, no, no...no spray. Go to radio shack and get some electrical contact cleaner...it looks like a felt pen.
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