Fellas -

Appears my alternator is toast. Stopped for gas last night on the way home from work and needed a jump start from there. Not enough voltage to run accessories on the way home - radio was cutting in and out - so seems like the altenator, not batteries. Tested it this morning and shows that it's only charging about .04 volts, so think that settles it.

Alternator looks easy enough to remove, but what about replacing it? Trying to figure out how to loosen and release tension on the serpentine belt. Can anyone point me in the right direction here?

Thanks,

Scott

 

You need a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar to remove the belt.



#4 in the diagram is your alternator. Look at the two pulleys #3 & #8 that are side by side. That is your tensioner. There is a square hole in that bracket that you can fit your breaker bar or ratchet into. Then pull towards the passenger side and you will be able to slip the belt off the pulleys.

Might be a good time to change the belt too since you've got to remove it.

 

Easy to replace the alternator.

To remove your serpentine belt you will need to use a 1/2" breaker bar or a 1/2" ratchet wrench.
On the pulley end of the belt tensioner you will see where to install the 1/2" wrench, turn it clockwise to release the tench on the belt.


Edit: Chris beat me to it again..LOL

 

Using breaker bar to release tension on belt.
I pull the bar toward the driver side.

 

These guys have you covered. There was recently a thread done about rebuilding your alternator. I'll see if I can find it and post a link.

Here you go: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...lternator.html

 

ROBIN..... You always have to out do me !!!!!!! J/K

Thanks for another pic I can steal and use in the future. and HAPPY NEW YEAR Bud.

 

Thanks Robin. I guess it is the driver side you pull toward. I must have been thinking of which way the bar leaned after the belt was removed.

 

Also,if the upper rad hose goes thru and not around the belt,it has to come off too

 

Scott, how long has the current Alt been in service? I know it sure looks cut and dried, probably is, but did you know a simple blown fuse could chop your Alt off at the knees? Sorry I don't have access to my Wiring manual, can't tell you the one, but there is one. If you look through your manual there will be a fuse for the alternator. This would let you be sure there is voltage going to the regulator, THAT would conclusively point to failed alt/alt component. Just my WAG. If you don't believe me, just look under my hood at the shiny new alternator, AND in my fuse box at its shiny new brother.... the fuse, replaced in that order! It's all good.

 

The reason for the above photo

 

Or, if your lazy like me, you could probably just lay the belt around the Upr Hose, and sneak the alternator out that way. BUT, this would be a great time to upgrade to the upper radiator hose that goes AROUND the stinking belt. Just tell'm it's for a 99'. Otherwise you may find yourself on the side of the road with a broken belt (no biggie), but when you attempt to install the new belt, you gotta remove the radiator hose . Not what I'd want to to on the side of the road. Sounds like a perfect opportunity for Murphy...

 

Wow, thanks for all the input. I just ended up doing it with brute strength - took off the old alt, put on the new. Pulled on the belt until I had enough slack - wasn't easy, but I'm not a small guy - and then slipped the belt over the pulley.

HOWEVER, now it does not appear to be charging at all! I ran the test again and showing zero volts at the batteries. WTF? Will have to check to see if I blew a fuse. Back in a few minutes.

Thanks!

Scott

 

Uh Ohh, looks like another fellow PSDr's going to have a new alternator WITH the optional new fuse... Hopefully it's that simple.

 

@#)(*&$)#*!!! All the fuses are good, so now I'm stumped. My thoughts:

1. Guess the new alternator could be bad, but I would be surprised if that was the case. I could swap the one that I have and see if that helped.

2. Other option is that my tester isn't working properly, but not sure how I could figure that out. Don't the auto parts stores (Advance, Napa, Auto Zone, etc) test your charging system to see if your alternator is working?

Any other ideas?

Thanks!

Scott

 

Ok, let's see... Try the meter on the batt. + and -, do you get 12.x volts? If no, throw the d*&# meter away (JK), but that should tell you if the meter is good. Make sure the meter is switched to DC power, AND that the leads are plugged into the appropriate places on the meter. Now start the truck. Test from the battery negative, to the B+ (Big wire on alternater), what are you getting there. If you get 0 volts, something is wrong with the wire... you should at least get battery voltage. Try wiggling the small connector feeding the alternator. If still no volts there, look on the passenger side fender well for a starter relay. There should be a dual ended wire connected in that area that is a "light grey", looks like it's been heat shrinked and will be a fusible link. Feel it, look at it. Does it look shriveled up, burnt, feel like it's mucked up inside. I should feel uniform from the end to were it feeds into the harness. If it's good, take your meter and test from the batt. - to those wire ends. Any voltage there?

Also on the fuse, did you find which one it was, pull it out, and use your ohm meter to test it? Just a couple things to start with. Your symptoms sounds like a fuse somewhere, OR a wire that isn't connected well.