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The 'lock' function will not work on the drivers side. 'Unlock' works and on pass. door both ways work.
The switch is checked good, the circuit breaker is good.
When I check volts on the 2 pink wires to the solenoid I get the plus 12 volts but not the neg. 12 volts.
I am PERPLEXED.
My truck does this from time to time. Not sure why. I just press the unlock and then lock repeatedly until it works. I usually only have to go each way a couple of times. I think I will watch this thread for better advice, maybe it'll fix mine too.
I have a wiring diagram from the Haynes manual I am using and trying to check the wires individually.
I am about ready to just put the door back together.
Well I did replace it about 6 mos ago. The thing is it works fine from the pass door switch.
IF it works from the passenger door switch it has to be the drivers side door switch or the wires leading to it.. Could be a broken wire in the door, between the door post and the door, or a plug loose where the drivers door wiring plugs into the main harness.
By working from the passenger door switch, this tells you the actuator IS good....
Unhook the pass side switch and plug it in on the driver side. If the pass side switch works from the driver side the driver switch is bad. If the driver switch works from the pass side or if the pass switch doesn't work on driver side a wire is broken. Wires usually crack in the door jamb boot. Take harness apart and remove all of the tape. Use a test light to check for power at the switch in and at the switch out (button pushed). Then check wire ot of switch every foot until you get no power, then back up every inch till you find break or last working foot checked. Cut wire apart and splice in a new section spaning the door jamb area so your splices are in the door and in the cab not in the jamb.
My truck does the same. Lubricating the locking mechanism/linkage with WD40 helps. It gets me by for a couple of months before it needs to be done again. I intend, when I have the time, to remove the entire linkage for a good internal cleaning and lubricating session. I haven't tried checking out the switch/connections, tho I suppose when I remove the assembly I will be able to test them then.
Why always the drivers side? Mine does it too, but I think its more like DBGrif91, it acts kind of sluggish and I think it's the same from both switches. I assumed it was something gummed up, but now I am thinking it could be something else. Oddly, it does not seem gummed up you manually lock it. I'll check it out someday in the warmer weather!
When I had the same problem with my truck, it was a broken wire between the door and the jamb. I isolated the problem by ohming out each wire in the wire bundle, from the switch wiring behind the door panel and the other plug located behind the left kick panel. I just used a wire splice to repair the break.
My theory for this problem happening mostly on the driver's door is because that door gets used the most; probably a bad design with regards to wire bundle placement, or type of wire used. Just my WAG.
The original post says BOTH locks work from the passenger side but don't work from the driver side. Has to be switch or wire.
I guess I didn't catch that part. When mine acts up it doesn't matter if I'm using the driver or passenger side switch, which is probably why mine is more a mechanical than electrical issue.
OK everyone, it is now working.
The problem was the switch itself, more specifically the N.O. set of contacts for the lock function. I used a fine jewelers file to clean them up and now it works.
I initially checked the switch, but not good enough. I went around the world hunting this problem and ended up back where I started.
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