I have a 2000 EX 4X4 limited v10. I have a problem with my passenger side front power window not going up and the driver side power door lock button only being able to unlock and not lock the doors. The power window works ok if I put 12 volts directly on the motor. Before I spend any money on guess work I was wondering if anybody has a schematic that I could use as a reference to buzz out all of the connections. I am really starting to think that I must have broken wires in the door jambs or a bad ground somewhere. Are there any relays associated with these issues?

Thanks in advance,
Robert

 

Go to autozone.com and register. Plug in your vehicle model and select repair guides, then select wiring diagrams, and scroll down to the power locks and windows. They have pretty good diagram for this year vehicle.

 

Hello Dave,
Thank you for the location of the wiring diagrams. Can you help me in trying to figure what to check? I am much more mechanical than electrical but with some help, ie: what exactly to look for would be a great help. I tried changing the front passenger side window switch with a switch from the rear door and it still does not work. I feel the issue is in the drivers side front switch or maybe a broken wire in the door jamb. I have used schematics before but these are a little difficult for me to follow.

Thanks,
Robert

 

Here's the door switch diagram. It shows the switches ground the wiring when they are activated.
AutoZone.com Repair Guide Image)

The pink/lightgreen is grounded to unlock the doors, and this grounds "J" in the diagram. The pink/yellow is grounded to lock the doors, and this grounds "I" in the diagram.

"I" and "J" are located in this next diagram.
AutoZone.com Repair Guide Image)

You can see in the 2nd diagram that the coils of the relays are hooked to battery power, but they are not grounded. They get their ground from "I" and "J" which lead back were we came from in the first diagram, the switches.

Also you can see in this diagram the driver's lock has it's own unlock relay. This is what lets you hit the remote key fob once to unlock the driver's door only, and then hit it again to unlock all the doors. If you notice, the driver's unlock relay is grounded by the GEM. This is a electronic module that is connected to the other systems of the truck, and is in a round about way where the signal from the key fob comes from to unlock the driver's door. If you go back to the first diagram that we started with at the top of the page, you will see there also the GEM module is tied into the "I" and the "J". This is how the remote fob unlocks and locks the rest of the door locks when you hit the key fob a second time.

 

Hello again Dave,
Thank you so much for the quick reply. In diagram #2 it shows a relay box with the Driver Unlock Relay, All Lock Relay, and the All unlock Relay. Where are these relays located in the truck? Are these 3 relays made up into 1 relay or are they 3 seperate relays? The only relay I can find that is related to the power door locks is number 4 inside the fuse box that is labeled for the one touch function.

I still have the problem with the passenger side door power window that will not allow me to put it in the up position. The switches on the drivers and passenger door will work in the down position only. It seems very strange to me that both of these problems appeared at the same time. This is why I was leaning towards wires being broken in the door jamb. Do you think I should try to remove the harness from the drivers door and pull it through the jamb to check for bad wires?

Thanks again,
Robert

 

What I would do is find those color wires I mentioned in a easy place to get at(behind the kickpanel maybe?) and get a scrap piece of wire and bolt it to a good ground. Then take a stick pin and poke the unlock and the lock wire, and then touch the ground wire to these wires and see if the doors lock and unlock. If they do, then I would suspect you are right, and there is a wiring problem from there to the switches.

You could also ground these color wires in the relay box. All 3 relays are located in the RKE relay box, in engine compartment near battery junction box. The battery junction box is what Ford calls the box under the hood with fuses in it.

 

I finally found the problem and was able to fix it. I found two broken wires inside the rubber boot of the drivers side door jamb. It was difficult to get at but I was able to splice two new wires on and connect them at the switch. Everything is working fine now.

Robert

 

After spending money on a motor and a driver side switch, I found you post and took a look. I too had two wires broken on the drivers side door. After a much difficult repair, all it well. Thanks for posting what you found!!!

 

I know this thread is older, but in case anyone stumbles on it hoping to find out where the PDL relays are on a 2000 Excursion, let me help; there are three of them--one for "all doors lock", one for "all doors unlock", and one for "driver's door only unlock". They are buried in the dashboard, mounted to the firewall upside down behind the radio. The easiest access to them is from the floorboard to the right of the accelerator pedal. You'll need to remove the knee panel under the steering wheel that covers the fuse box; then remove the rubbery lower cover above the brake pedal in the driver's footwell that's held in place by 3 or 4 pf the phillips head push-pins; then in the lower right corner of the opening exposed when you removed the knee panel, find and remove the single gold 7mm screw (look just above the accelerator pedal) that holds the driver's footwell air duct in place, and remove that air duct. Then lay on your back in the drivers floorboard and look up to where would be directly behind and just below the radio--you'll see a small (2"x6") rectangular black cover facing down that hides the relays, held on with a clip at each end. Pop the cover off, and you'll see the three lock relays inside as well as one more. I'm not sure what order they are in. In my case, I was intending to see if the relay was my problem by having what was functioning change when I swapped relays....apparently my problem was a poor connection on one of the relays because once I swapped two of them everything started working perfectly and has worked fine since.

 

Thanks for finding the relays. I must have been looking at the wrong diagram. Autozone mixes the lighter duty and the heavier duty diagrams together and sometimes I get the wrong one.