Let me first say I am so glad I found this fourm... I have been reading for the past 2 days and have learned a alot! I have some questions that I am hoping the knowledable posters on this fourm can answer.

Here is the info on my Ex:

2004 Eddie Bauer
V-10
70k miles
Purchased this past July during "cash for clunkers..." I traded in my 2002 Honda Accord SE (my own personal political statement) and I am still waiting for my check...
I currently pull a 25ft cabin crusier and a 30ft Travel trailer...

Here is what I have done so far:

• Under warrenty I have had both upper and lower ball joints replaced on both sides. Brakes were replaced prior to purchase. (Stock)
• New tires added when I purchased it. (Michelin LTX) It hurt the wallet, but I love Michelines. I have a set on my Durango and could not be happier with them
• Flomaster 60 muffler... Makes it sound great when standing still, but has an annoying droning sound at certian speeds when driving around town...
• Cold air intake... Not K&M, but close enough.

I added the exhaust and intake in hopes of better gas mileage and in identical trips between OH and NY I have seen a decent improvement (12.9 vs 14.6) Just not sure the improvement is worth the cost of the Tylenol I have to buy because of that droning sound...

Here is what I am looking to do and have questions about:

• Shocks - It is obsious by the ride of the vehichle (atleast I hope it is) that I need new shocks... I have read all the previous threads and have decided to go with the Bilstien HD shocks. My only question here is the thread appeared to be a few years old, so is this still the best option for the price? I am not intrested in the rancho adjustable shocks because I will likely not adjust them and as others have pointed out, it is just another failure point. Has anyone seen a good deal on the Bilstiens? Everywhere I have looked prices seem to be higher then what was mentioned in that thread.
• Hubs - This one infuriates me. Even though one of my hubs is stuck in the locked position and the other is stuck in the auto position the dealership would not cover under the warrenty I purchased even though they acknowledged the hubs were crap... I was told that if they failed because of corrosion I would be on the hook for the replacement costs and there was no way to tell other then to pull them off and take them apart which would likely break them anyway if corrsion was at fault. To thich they said it would be over $1,000 to replace. So anyone have any recomendations for replacement hubs that will work with the swtich in the cab for a reasonable price? I am not interested in fully manual hubs unless that is my only option... Is it an easy job? I am not a mechanic, but I am not afraid to get my hands dirty. Or does anyone know how to make this a repair that would be covered under warrenty?
• Programmer: Based on what I have read on the fourm so far, the best improvements from programmers are on the diesels. Anyone have an real workd experience with programmers on the V-10? Is it worth the price for the performance gains that are being seen? If so any recomendations on types of programmers? I have been looking at Cortex and Bullydog.
• Swaybar: I see this mentioned as a must do if replacing shocks, but I seem to remember the dealership saying this was installed when they were showing me the new ball joints they installed. Can someone send me a picture of what it is I would be looking for to determine if it was installed or not? Also recomendations for one if it is not there?

Any other suggestions are also welcome... Thanks again for any advise that you can provide.

Brian

 

Welcome to the forum. Are you the same Brian Orourke from Team Faith? (If so... I used to race jet-skis and I bought your Blaster in Colorado a few yrs ago). Small world!

If not, sorry, my mistake.

Many of your questions can be answered by more searching, but heres my take on it:

Shocks: I prefer the Ranchos for the adjustability
Hubs: only way to get the auto-feature is to replace with OEM-style hubs
Programmer: for the V-10, many users here are getting the 5-star custom tuning. Search for the "group buy" & results threads (edit, heres one: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...tar-tunes.html )
Swaybar: MUST HAVE item. It is on the front from the factory, but the rear one is not common. The aftermarket one is made by Hellwig and is widely recommended.

 

Thanks Neil, I am not the same Brian O'Rourke you know, but I hope the Blaster worked out anyway!

Thanks for the info you provided, I am going to look at the Hellweig sway bar in addition to the shocks... I found the 5 star tuning site after this posting and I am going to get on the list for the group buy if it is not already too late.

Take Care,
Brian

 

Shocks: Bilsteins are the best especially if you don't want to adjust them. It's a night and day difference between the stock shocks.

Hubs: The hubs CAN be serviced, I'm willing to bet yours are dry and in need of some penetrating oil and grease to get things moving again. Check here for the detailed write up on how to do it: Welcome to guzzle's Ford PSD Maintenance Web Page

Programmer: No doubt, no question, 5-Star Tuning will teach your V10 new tricks.

Swaybar: The Hellwig anti-sway bar hands down is one of the best mods you can get for your truck.

 

Ha, interesting... Same spelling and everything. (of course I was assuming your last name was part of your username).

I shoud have mentioned that the bilsteins are still highly recommended, yet some claim they are too stiff. Others love them. Ride quality is SO subjective. Thats the nice thing about the rancho 9000's. you can set them where you like them.

good luck on dialing in your new rig... I'm sure you'll love it!

 

Bilstein HD shocks are still some of the best on the market. Many other companies use Monroe shocks built to their specs, then slap their name on them. Bilstein does all their own design and construction.

As for the hubs. If you want to keep your auto feature for the ESOF (Electronic Shift On-the-Fly), then you have to buy OEM. If you do, check out Ed (www.partsguyed.com) as he has some of the lowest prices around and is a great guy too. If you don't care about having to get out and lock your hubs, you can plug your vacuum lines and get some aftermarket hubs that are considerably less expensive. I know that Superwinch, Mile Marker and Warn make hubs for our trucks. Most people I know spend the extra $$$ and the Warn Premium locking hubs, as everyone seems to think they are the best ones out there.

Just my .02

 

Welcome!

I'll take a stab at a few of your questions that I can speak to personally:

1) Tuner: 5-Star. Hands down.

2) Shocks: I did a lot of research on this before I installed my RS 9000s. I couldn't decide between the Bilsteins and the Ranchos. I believe the Bilsteins are good shocks, but I've never run them personally. I've run Ranchos before, and was happy with them. What made my decision was the fact that I've seen several people complain about the Bilstein ride being stiffer than they liked.

I, like you, don't plan on adjusting my shocks regularly. However, having the ability to dial them in to what I wanted was what pointed me to the Ranchos. I've been very happy with them.

If you do a search for threads by me, you'll find more detailed writeups on both the tuner and the shocks.

3) Rear Sway bar: I'll give you a little different perspective than the "get the Helliwig" standard answer--I don't have a rear swaybar on mine. Instead, I installed the Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS). Do a search, you'll see the writeups on here. The RAS not only limits sway, it also helps reduce rear sag, much like an airbag system would. I had problems with my trailer dropping my rear-end so far that I'd get people flashing headlights at me thinking my hi-beams were on. I had planned on getting the airbag system until I read about the RAS. I installed it the same time I did my RS9000s, so I can't tell you how much of my handling improvement is attributable to the RAS vs. the shocks, but I'm very happy with the improvement in my truck, both with and without the trailer on the back.

That said, if you want a swaybar, there's nothing wrong with doing that, and I expect you'll see a gain. Just not worth doing both the swaybar and the RAS, IMHO.

Like I said above, if you want more detail on any of the above, I've written a few threads on what I've seen since I did the 5-Star and the RS9000s & RAS. If you have trouble finding them, PM me.

Welcome! You'll love your truck! And, as an employee of the oil industry, I say "THANK YOU" for getting rid of the Honda. Long live the gas guzzlers!

 

for shocks - I went with the HD's since I needed the extra height. they are stiff with the tires aired all the way up, but I do have an X code up front.
I have heard the Rancho's **** can get corroded if you don't keep it clean in the saltbelt.
another choice if you are not lifting the truck, Edelbrock IAS shocks - loved them on my old truck.

 

Don't buy new hubs. Most likely they just need to be cleaned and re-lubed. Save yourself the money and look at guzzle's website for instructions on how to clean and lube esof hubs. I have done it several times to my hubs and they work flawlessly after the procedure.

 

Brian,

You've gotten awesome advice thus far and I really can't add all that much but I will add my $0.02.

I tow a 31' (35' hitch to bumper) 9000# travel trailer...I tow it ALL OVER the country and know no boundaries...I primarily use my Ex as a snow and tow vehicle only so it sees very little non-towing mileage...

Shocks...I went with Bilsteins...personally...I'm not sure what people really mean when they say a 'harsh' or 'rough' ride due to the Bilsteins...I mean we are driving a 3/4 ton beast of a truck...it really isn't in a Lincoln or Lexus ride category...I'm sure the Rancho's (of which I have NO personal seat time) can soften some of the stiffness/jarring associated with a 3/4 ton truck...but for my application which is primarily towing...the Bilsteins fit the bill perfectly...and for ~$100 less on 4 shocks when I was buying...

RAS versus Hellwig versus both...Husky is right in that the RAS does add resistance to side to side body roll...just by the nature of the beast of the RAS...prior to purchasing my current TT...I had a slightly lighter one...I found that I ONLY needed the Hellwig as my Ex did not come with a factory REAR sway bar...all Ex's come with the front...but not all come with the rear...it is very easy to identify if yours has one...simply look under the rear of your truck from either side by the rear doors...you are looking for a round bar that will be bent and goes UP and OVER the drive shaft just in front of the rear differential pumpkin...it is quite obvious if you have one...if not...my suggestion would be since you tow...install the RAS first as Husky suggests...and see if that solves any issues you have...if not...the Hellwig is a quick ~1hr bolt on that will cost ~$200. The RAS I have found really corrects for many of the Excursion 'features' that are caused by the softer rear springs. Adding about 2000#'s of rear spring capacity and stiffness to resist the axle wrapping phenom really makes towing a pleasure and gives your Ex the ability to carry the tongue weight we are asking her to carry as we tow without excessive rear end sag...

Regardless though...you SHOULD BE using a WD hitch to also assist with leveling the load when hitched...I hope you are using one...

Tuner...as others have stated...SCT X3 or LiveWire with custom tunes by Mike at 5-Star...a bunch of us just got ours in that 'group-buy' and I have only run a little over a tank thru my truck and I am seeing 1-1.5mpg improvement using the 'econo' tune. I won't utilize the towing tune until late spring...but everything I have read and talked personally to Mike about...his tunes will correct some of the things Ford left on the table in the stock tune...Mike owns 2 V10s that he tows with and develops these tunes on...so he has real world practical experience with our engines...and his customer focus is second to none...give him a call...you may still be able to get in on the end of the group buy...

Hubs...follow that link that toreador posted...the dealer will NEVER tell you these hubs can be serviced...but they CAN...guzzle does a great job of his write up with incredible step by step photos to walk you thru...it is definitely worth a shot...what's the worst that can happen...you have to buy new hubs?...haha

Good luck and WELCOME to FTE and to the family of the KING of SUV's...

BTW...we are having our 3rd annual Excursion Diversion in July if you are interested PM me (or follow the link in my sig for some info) as I do a lot of the organization stuff...I am not sure where in Ohio you are located...the rally is in Santa Claus Indiana (southern Indiana) at a great campground right next to Holiday World Amusement/Water Park...but we have a great time at these get togethers...I happen to know of 2 sites in the rally area that are still available for anyone that is interested...PM me.

Okay...maybe I did have more than $0.02 worth...

Joe.

 

FWIW: I was struggling justifying $100 more for the shocks I wanted, but I found a place online that was selling them for roughly the same amount as the best price I could find on the Bilsteins. Never heard of the company, but Summit sells them, and Summit price-matches.

End of story--bought mine from Summit--great customer service, great price. Not trying to talk anyone out of the Bilsteins, just trying to help folks that want the Ranchos to save some $$.

 

As mentioned above, dont be afraid of hubs also look on ebay or craigslist for used stuff i have seen them go cheap . i had a 00 exc. took hubs apart because they were not working rite, just cleaned and greased they worked like new. also dont forget vac hose i would remove hose, take nipple out of port, clean nipple and hole it came out of. 1 of my nipples was completely blocked the other only had a pin hole, these hubs are easy to service.

 

Thanks all for the great advice that was provided. Sorry for the delay in responding but holidays have had me tied up. As soon as the weather breaks I am going to get the shocks and do the hub service that was in the website. The step by step instructions looked great so that even I could actually do it! I will also put the new shocks on as well.

I looked underneath and I do not have the rear sway bar so that may be something I do a little later after the shocks and hubs. I also forgot to mention that I have a set of heavy duty airbag for the rear when towing, they do an awesome job leveling things out.

To answer the previous question, I do use a WD hitch when towing my camper but not my boat.

Now I just have to wait for the temperature to get above 20 so I can actually do some work on it!

Thanks,
Brian

 

Hey Joe,

That was .25 cents worth!

 

My 2 cents

I bought the HD Bilsteins for my Ex in November and I am now looking to return them if I can. At 85k miles I should have kept the stock ones. 20-20 hindsight. But then, you never know until you buy something and use it.

For example, I was on a freeway yesterday and while in a turn the rear end was swaying and moving up and down. No control at all. No, I was not speeding. Not over taxing the shocks at all.

I have heard a lot of good about the 9000XLs. But then, I have also heard that the Monroe Gas Magnums are a good shock, too.

One thing is for sure..... The Bilsteins are coming off whether I can return them or not. FYI.... I got them from Bilstein - KYB - Rancho - Monroe - Edelbrock Automotive Truck Shocks and Struts - Shockwarehouse.com

I put the Hellwig rear anti-sway bar on when I got the Ex new in 03. Major improvement. But then I have been an anti-sway convert since my days w/ my 65 mustang. All vehicles should have one. And the bigger the more need.