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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

02 Ranger No spark

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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 09:44 AM
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02 Ranger No spark

Hey guys,
I searched and did not see anything that was really the same problem I was having. Just wondering if there are any common problems with these trucks. I recently was given a 2002 ranger auto with a 3.0 in it. It has 111000 miles on it. The problem is that the truck will not start. I def. have fuel pressure but I have no spark. With the key in the run position there is 12 volts to the coil pack. I changed the coil pack from a truck that was running and still did not start. The reason the truck was given to me was because the dealer said it would be around 2000 to fix. Unfortunately the guy i got the truck from said the dealer told him the circuit boards were bad. He has no idea what he is talking about. But I was thinking maybe something with the ECU. Ever heard of any issues with the ECU, Cam Sensor, Crank sensor? I have an Shopkey5 account but the wiring diagrams seem a little lacking on what signals other then the 12v the four wires on the coil should be recieving.
Thanks A lot for any help
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 09:50 AM
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Check the engine relay
 
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 08:54 AM
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Welcome to FTE.

If you have B+ to the coilpacks & seeing as how the computer switches the coilpacks ground conection to fire them & the Dealer says that circuit boards are fried, I think your on the right track to have the ECU on your suspect list.

You can have the ECU bench tested at no cost, at most autoparts stores.

If the ECU checks out ok, inspect it's ground points & pull the computers engine bay firewall connector & inspect it for water, or corrosion on the pins & sockets. I've heard of water leaks at the hood rubber seal just above this connector causing problems & have heard of missing connector rubber seals, so maybe it's worth a look.

If the ECU is fried, would be interesting to find out how that happened!!!!

Some thoughts to ponder, let us know what you find.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by pawpaw
Welcome to FTE.

If you have B+ to the coilpacks & seeing as how the computer switches the coilpacks ground conection to fire them & the Dealer says that circuit boards are fried, I think your on the right track to have the ECU on your suspect list.

You can have the ECU bench tested at no cost, at most autoparts stores.

If the ECU checks out ok, inspect it's ground points & pull the computers engine bay firewall connector & inspect it for water, or corrosion on the pins & sockets. I've heard of water leaks at the hood rubber seal just above this connector causing problems & have heard of missing connector rubber seals, so maybe it's worth a look.

If the ECU is fried, would be interesting to find out how that happened!!!!

Some thoughts to ponder, let us know what you find.
Thanks a lot, The truck is in key west FL so I will def. tell my dad to check the connections on the harness at the ecu and then the other main one. Corrosion is a huge deal down there. I am also going to tell him to put a ckp sensor and cam sensor in. I know these parts from the stealership are less than 100 bucks for both so Ill have him throw those two darts for sharts and giggles. Which auto parts stores can bench test ECU's? Ill let you know what happens, might be a few days...
 
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 08:10 PM
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If he doesn't have trouble codes for the crank, or cam sensors, no need to throw those parts at the problem yet imo.

Take the time to do a proper trouble shoot, Test & verify & stick with & run down what you have evidence for & right now it sounds like the computer & it's connectors & maybe it's power relay needs to be checked out.

Call around to see who can bench test the computer in your area. Advance & AZ can do it in my area.

If he can get a scantool that'll read sensor PID's hooked to the in cabin diagnostic port, it could give some good touble shooting feedback, without having to guess, or blindly throw parts at the problem & hope for success.

As Graygeorge has suggested, make sure the computers power relay is working, if the CEL lights up at KOEO, before cranking the engine & you have B+ at the coilpack, it probably is, but if in doubt, swap in a like, known good power relay not needed to run the engine, say the A/C power relay & see what happens.

About the only two things on the 3.0L that gives problems is the coilpack cracking underneath & the cam sensor going out, but it's used to time the fuel injectors, not fire the coil pack.

Neither of those has caused a complete no spark problem.
The computer can use either the crank, or cam sensor, to run the engine & it's unlkely that both would go out at the same time & if they did, you'd have a CEL lit.

The coilpack cracking just usually causes a miss, not total spark failure.

As I've said, the computer not switching the coil packs ground connection, will cause total lack of spark.

Keep us posted on your findings.
 
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