nice flex, what springs are you running up front? any pics of the whole truck flexing?
sorry for the hi-jack, btw...

 

By reversing the shackle, you gain at the very least, 3 inches. There is no avoiding it!! Trust me, I didn't want any lift either, but its just how it works..

 

Nope! brand spanking new! I'm pretty sure Putnam went out of business, and some company must have bought out the inventory. The only crappy thing was I couldn't find any pictures or install information about it, so it was a blind purchase and hope it would fit and work for what I wanted. And it did.. mostly..

 

i would as that is what i have in the rear of mine. the only thing i saw in the rear that i didn't like was that the PO added degree shims to get the pinion pointed the way he wanted it. there are also lift blocks if you wanted to go the cheap route.

 

Thank You for the answers, I will get the kit I have worked very hard and need a little gift .

How do You guys drill holes in the frame? I will replace any small bolt with 1/2" and will be drilling quite a few holes, anything else besides a regular steel bit?

Thank You.

 

Ed, from looking at your pics, you don't have the trac arm or the anti sway bar installed. Just asking as I'm at that point in my Sky RSK install and The sway bar won't mount without contacting the spring. My question, Do I still need it????
93Ford, I have some pics in my Gallery about this. I'm almost done converting my '96 f350 2wd to a 4wd.

 

Use bits that are rated for "high speed steel" (should say "HSS" on them) and use the correct cutting fluid (2 stroke oil works ok if nothing else is available but not ideal). Don't attempt to drill full size on the first pass. Start out with something small and manageable like 3/16" or 1/4", then go to the full size of 1/2". If you need a larger hole, add another size between them, 3/8" for example. The idea is to have a pilot hole large enough for the core of your final size drill bit to pass through.

It sounds like more work because you are drilling twice, but in reality, its faster to drill in stages then try to pass the core of a 1/2" bit on one pass and will tire you a lot less. You will have to push hard to get the pilot drill to bite and the moment it stops cutting under pressure, it can overheat and dull the bit. Stop a few times to add more lube.

Oil also helps cool the tip, so do use something. Blue cuttings, means you are getting to the upper temperature limit. If they start to show some black, you are too hot.

When drilling, you will have to feel when the tip starts biting and will see when the shavings start rolling out. You will have to control the drill speed to get the ideal bite. Too fast will overheat, too slow will not bite and the bit may snag and chip. Pushing too hard and drilling too slow on a pilot drilled hole will also cause a snag or chip.

Small sizes need higher RPM and more pressure, larger pilot drilled holes need lower RPM and LESS pressure.

One final warning. When you break through with any of the bits, there is a high risk of it snagging on the last shard of steel. Larger bits will be more prone. Brace yourself against something solid, and reduce pressure on the bit when you are about to break though all the way. The drill can either punch you, or twist crooked resulting in a chipped or broken bit (or all of thee above).

Full face protection and gloves are a good idea because the shavings are hot and hurt like hell when they land on you.

 

You nailed it on the drill hitting You back if too much pressure is applied. I use drills and cutting tools (wood, metal, plastic) daily and I learned the hard way what some of them can do, think scarface style.

I saw some guys using a different bit type that looks like an arrow and increases the size of a smaller predrilled hole but I really don't know where to get such a tool and if I don't then I'll use the fast drill for the small hole and the big slow drill for the bigger hole.

I'll check the gallery too.
Thank You.

 

That drill thing is a step bit. If you were in Canada, I'd say Princess Auto and Canadian Tire. In the states, Auto Zone??????

 

Just to add to all that good drilling advice. . . make sure you hang on real tight to the drill. On the last pass with the 1/2 bit, near the end of the hole is where the bit catches the last piece of metal and locks the drill. I've had the drill twist my wrist and damn near brake my arm. For a thick frame, a big powerful corded 1/2 drill works best, the ones that have the two handles.

 

I hear ya DL1221. After drilling 38 holes in my frame in the last several days, I've had that happen a few times.....

 

Home Depot and Lowes also carry step bits. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they have them for cheap as well.

I was a bit wary of them, but after using one a few times, they work pretty well! When I was doing my swap, I think it was pilot hole with a small bit, step bit up to final size, and clean/finish it up with regular bit if needed. The step bits seem to cut off larger chips, and like the drill to run faster. Use plenty of oil on them, and watch out as the chips are HOT!! They don't work well on thicker metal, anything thicker than the size of a step will really bog it down and won't finish the hole, you have to go back from the opposite side, or finish with a regular bit. One added benefit, they are maybe half the length of a regular 1/2 inch bit, so can get into some pretty tight places, especially with a right angle drill.

I'm cheap and use old motor oil to lube the bits. It might not be the best, but its free and I have a ton of it. One caution as well, check the back side of what you're drill. You definitely don't want to drill into a brake or fuel line, and hitting some wiring will ruin your day as well. I'll also second the safety equipment! Metal shards in your eye suck a lot! Rusty bits and dirt also suck, and will be falling off the frame as you work so make sure to wear at least safety goggles if not a full face shield. The face shield is really needed when you're under the drill going straight up.

 

Ok I got the step bits and some cut off wheels to remove the rivets, I looked at the reverse kits from some of the members here on their trucks and looks like I will have to box the frame for the front spring bracket since mine isn't. What thickness should I use? is it ok to use a foot of square steel tube cut it in half and weld each halve on the frame where the bracket will bolt?

Any other tips always welcome

 

How do I upload pics?