EBPV IDea
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,116
Likes: 6
From: metairie, LA
I have to ask, why???
The only thing that thing is good for is to annoy you...
Doesn't work well as an exhaust brake, only time it does is when it's hook to lock the TC, too. And even then, just the TC lock works best.
I'll give you a thumbs up for a cool idea I never thought of, though.
The only thing that thing is good for is to annoy you...
Doesn't work well as an exhaust brake, only time it does is when it's hook to lock the TC, too. And even then, just the TC lock works best.
I'll give you a thumbs up for a cool idea I never thought of, though.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,417
Likes: 4
From: Braham MN
you have to ground the TC wire on the trans harness to manualy lock the TC. I dont recall what pin it is but its the purple with yellow tracer that has to be grounded.
while I can see the point of the faster warmup time, I am with Jim. although it does get dang cold up here, -22º is the coldest I have been in so far this year...... mine just doesnt idle much, maybe 5 minutes to get the oil fluid again then its down the road I go. I HATE wasting fuel on idling, I didnt spend $200 on a coat just to get in a warm vehicle.......
Diesel Rod
while I can see the point of the faster warmup time, I am with Jim. although it does get dang cold up here, -22º is the coldest I have been in so far this year...... mine just doesnt idle much, maybe 5 minutes to get the oil fluid again then its down the road I go. I HATE wasting fuel on idling, I didnt spend $200 on a coat just to get in a warm vehicle.......
Diesel Rod
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,417
Likes: 4
From: Braham MN
no. it will be a wiring nightmare to try and break the circuit AND be able to lock it manualy.
Edit I lied it wont be that hard....
Use a double pole single throw On-Off-On switch. cut the wire take the trans side of the cut wire and run it to the center terminal on the switch. run a wire from one of the outer terminals on the switch to the PCM side of the cut wire. now take the only open terminal left on the switch and run it to a GOOD ground point in the truck.
Off will mean no lockup, one of the ON's will be manual lock the other ON will be PCM controlled.
Diesel Rod
Edit I lied it wont be that hard....
Use a double pole single throw On-Off-On switch. cut the wire take the trans side of the cut wire and run it to the center terminal on the switch. run a wire from one of the outer terminals on the switch to the PCM side of the cut wire. now take the only open terminal left on the switch and run it to a GOOD ground point in the truck.
Off will mean no lockup, one of the ON's will be manual lock the other ON will be PCM controlled.
Diesel Rod
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,266
Likes: 0
From: Levittown
Its life in the big city.
Bill
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
To think you'll get heat in our trucks from letting them idle for more then 5 minutes would be scary. I've let mine idle and warm up for 30 mins.
Doesn't even get to normal driving temperatures.
I let my vehicle idle so it is warm and happy. Not necessarily me.
Doesn't even get to normal driving temperatures.
I let my vehicle idle so it is warm and happy. Not necessarily me.
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Joe Kucinski
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,550
Likes: 5
From: Lancaster County PA
Mostly because I can't afford an $800 or so "true" exhaust brake.
I got a noticeable braking action and a cool sound (particularly impressive to non-diesel buddies riding with me) for about 6 bucks in parts. And that was only because I bought an old 2-speed rear end switch off a junkyard for $5; otherwise I could have gotten away with spending even less.
If true exhaust brakes came down to a more realistic price like $250 - $300 or so, I'd gladly pony up the bucks for one.
I got a noticeable braking action and a cool sound (particularly impressive to non-diesel buddies riding with me) for about 6 bucks in parts. And that was only because I bought an old 2-speed rear end switch off a junkyard for $5; otherwise I could have gotten away with spending even less.
If true exhaust brakes came down to a more realistic price like $250 - $300 or so, I'd gladly pony up the bucks for one.
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
Id love a real exhaust brake, but.
Just to unafordable for what you get.
If somebody can get me one, perhaps I could figure out a decent way to make them for cheeper for us.
I think one of the main concerns for us is the differences in sizes of exhausts.
but the rest of the parts are make able and machinable by the people I know.
Just to unafordable for what you get.
If somebody can get me one, perhaps I could figure out a decent way to make them for cheeper for us.
I think one of the main concerns for us is the differences in sizes of exhausts.
but the rest of the parts are make able and machinable by the people I know.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 869
Likes: 5
From: Near Shenandoah Valley
I did the "brake" on a switch works great when pulling . It would not be hard to make an ex. brake it's finding the actuator and hooking it up to the throttle for instant response and making capable of locking open in case of actuator failure.
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,655
Likes: 7
From: Celaya, Gto. MX
Bill, I have a couple of questions:
1.- did you had to turn the EBPV to get that position for the cable?
2.- If you let the valve closed and the back pressure increases, it opens by itself or what? if not, isnt it dangerous?, and somebody ask above if you have a gauge for that?
3.- Where did you attached the cable to the bell housing?
1.- did you had to turn the EBPV to get that position for the cable?
2.- If you let the valve closed and the back pressure increases, it opens by itself or what? if not, isnt it dangerous?, and somebody ask above if you have a gauge for that?
3.- Where did you attached the cable to the bell housing?
