Okay Guys...I'm posting this question for my hubby! He has a 1996 F350 Dually....manual tranny and of course PS Diesel! Over the last 6 months, we have had a recurring problem with starting the truck. We depress the clutch...wait to start and upon turning the ignition....we get nothing. Leave key in start postion....stomp the everloving crap out of the clutch a couple of times and it usually decides to start up. From reading the posts on here, I have determined that we should replace the CPP switch and the plastic bushing that everyone says wears out! If I am correct on this deduction, then could someone please post the part numbers for those items. Can you only get them from Ford?

Secondary question/problem....sometimes when the clutch works with us after several attempts....the truck seems to try to turn over and does not. It does that wuh-wuh-wuh noise and then eventually starts up and runs like poo for the next 15 minutes.....it seems to dump a lot of fuel into something, somewhere....if he doesn't allow for the "warm Up", the truck will barely have power...he's had to pull over on the side of the rode and let it "work itself out" on more than one occasion, it has also started and without provocation...idled up really high...sounding as if it's gonna blow up, blowing a lot of smoke and the same time. It's got over 200k on it, but would like some ideas on that problem as well....

I know this post is long and appreciate all the input from all you guys!!

Thanks-
Blood85's Wifey

 

I don't have the answer, but look at that grammar guys, you can tell she's a chick. LOL. (bump to top)

 

First, temporary fix for the clutch problem is the clutch pedal bushing (small plastic bushing, obtained from Ford), they wear out and do not allow the clutch rod to go all of the way in. Of course a new will wear out also. There is a pemanent fix which requires cutting off the end of the clutch rod and installing a hem joint, which will not wear out. Search ebay for "FORD Clutch Rod End Permanent Repair" and you should find it.

Try the above "BEFORE" repalceing the CPP switch. This kind of problem is usually the bushing not the CPP.

Second problem could be bad VC (Valve Cover) connectors, bad VC gasket, bad UVC (Under Valve Cover) wiring harness, bad glow plugs, bad GPR (Glow Plug Relay) EBPV (Exhaust Back Pressure Valve) staying closed. First thing that I would suggest is to unplug the EBPV connector (two wire connector under the turbo) and see if this helps. Then check all of the above mentioned electrical connections.

Others will be along to help also, so just stay tuned.

 

It sounds like the EBPV is the starting problem. Disconnect this connector, it's under the turbo

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Be sure the tang in this picture is in the open position after the connector above is off. If not, wire it open.


Here is a link to the clutch rod plowhand mentioned. If you use Ford plastic bushings it will fail in short order:
Click Here>Permanent Clutch Rod End<Click Here

 

Cuda, you the man, great job with the pictures and link, Reps sent.

 

Thanks for the input guys! We'll start investigating.....

I'm a country girl that rides my four-wheeler thru the mud, works on my '52 JD MT, can shoot my 9mm and does just as much as some guys! I also have good grammar....so sue me!!

 

Good grammar is a welcome addition. You should see some of the posts. Glad you posted come back anytime.

 

Hey I'm not pickin a fight, just admiring your grammar. most people here don't give a hoot about it including myself. You sound like my fiance with all the fun outdoor stuff.

 

I got a chuckle out of the fact that she nailed deduction, recurring, secondary and provocation only to misspell road.

I agree that the EBPV is the likely culprit. Perhaps the backpressure tube on the pass side exhaust to the top front of engine is plugged.

I put a powered switch on the supply wire to the EBPV and began using it as an exhaust brake. Worked great.

Aaron

 

thats all i got to unplug? and the EBPV will no longer work? What is that valve thing that I have to worry about?

 

Yep, that's the one...and all you need to do to disable the EBPV.
The valve cannot be seen unless you remove the down pipe but...you can see the tab under it, like the picture I posted above, to see if the flapper inside is in the open position.
It's rare to for the valve to be closed or partially closed but it's best to check it.

 

As for rode....you got me on that one....slip of the grammatical tongue...I noticed that too when I posted it...but didn't feel like editing it.....

Most of my friends throughout my unmarried life were guys....they got a kick hanging out with someone that liked what they liked....and I wasn't too bad to look at either!

 

Where do I look for that at.........the backpressure tube?????

 

the white with red wire on the plug is the one you run power to. I've got the stuff but have a serious lack of motivation, so i haven't done it yet.

 

Finally got around to unplugging the switch located by the turbo and took a picture of this tang thingy.....so, is it in the open position or not??? And if not which way do I need to slide the bar...to the left or right?


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