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How many amps do the mirrors draw? I'm gonna hook mine up to an uplifter switch and need to know whether to put it on one of the 30amp or 10amp switches.
I've heard numbers up to 4 amps each, so if that's true you should be fine with the 10 amp switch, but that's just from poking around here - couldn't tell you for sure.
Now, for my own question... How do you know which connector is the 270D connector? Would this be in the owner's manual somewhere? Or is is printed on the connector itself? Thanks!
I've heard numbers up to 4 amps each, so if that's true you should be fine with the 10 amp switch, but that's just from poking around here - couldn't tell you for sure.
Now, for my own question... How do you know which connector is the 270D connector? Would this be in the owner's manual somewhere? Or is is printed on the connector itself? Thanks!
Update: 2006 uses a Green wire w/violet stripe also, connector is not labeled but it is almost directly behind the mirror heat fuse. This connector is at the bottom of the fuse block, just about in the middle(looking directly at it). It has a looped light blue wire w/pink stripe (gos in loops and gos back in) and the release is on the end of the connector. This should help you identify it. I decided to go with the Aux 2 switch since the factory fuse is 15amps, now I just have to go get a large 15 amp fuse for the switch fuse in the block so the mirror wiring doesn't burn up for some reason. Based on the wire size I think I could've used Aux 3 but why take the chance if I'm not useing Aux 2 for anything else. I recommend a SMALL jewelers flathead screwdriver to pry out the red lock in the center of the connector and then to push in the back of the connector to get it to release the wire, it's no prob if you use that. Hope this helps.
Well my heated mirrors are now on Aux 2 and I went ahead and did the Fog light mod while I was in there...had already done the high idle mod, it's on Aux 4. Glad I don't have that 8 amp draw all the time now the alternator on these trucks isn't exactly oversized by any means.
Ok, went to the parts house. Apparently they don't make a 15 amp fusible link. So after I got home I rewired the mirror to Aux 3 and put the 15 amp mini fuse in the Aux 3 port. Figured it would be alright since they're both 18 gauge wires.
Finally got my heated mirror switch installed last night.!! Installed a toggle switch on the dash below the gauges along with all my other switches. Since the mirrors are already fused I just installed the swich in line, had to add about 8" to each side to reach the swich and I installed a led. indicator light to let me know when they are on. Took all of 30. minutes. Thanks to all the info and the pictures on here it was a simple task, and yes it was the dark green/purple stripe wire, was thrown off at first by the light green/purple stripe on the same plug..Came back looked at pics. and figured it out.
Thanks guys for all the information......
Got mine installed last weekend. I had my dash tore apart to install my switches and I was able to reach into the headlight switch hole to do the cutting and splicing.
So all you have to do to avoid dropping the fuse panel is to remove the headlight switch and the front part of the dash
Heated mirror control along with wiper shaker (not installed yet) and backup camera. The small rocker switch is for a truck cap light.
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