Another electrical/wiring question
#31
Joe, the brakes are another item down the road, the PO told me that it leaked near the master cylinder. It was bone dry, so I added fluid and sure enough, it leaked out a slow stream that looked like it was coming right out of the plunger boot. I pulled the MC and it was stuck pretty good, and the inside looked like a dirt farm, so I replaced it. I had one brake line going to the Hi Power Booster (the hydrovac was on the F7 & F8) that was froze, so I replaced that one. When I thought I had it all done, I added fluid and then the gusher poured down the front of the MC, turns out the line going to the front brakes was broken right above the MC. That line will come with time.
As I mentioned earlier, I only replaced 7 plugs, the #5 plug was turning pretty hard coming out and I am afraid that it may have been cross threaded. I decided to leave it go until I had a thread chaser and my shop vac ready. Just in case I am right.
Yep, I knew about the remote starter switch, working on this thing alone, it sure makes it easier. BTW, don't you just love that wire from the starter switch to the solenoid!
As I mentioned earlier, I only replaced 7 plugs, the #5 plug was turning pretty hard coming out and I am afraid that it may have been cross threaded. I decided to leave it go until I had a thread chaser and my shop vac ready. Just in case I am right.
Yep, I knew about the remote starter switch, working on this thing alone, it sure makes it easier. BTW, don't you just love that wire from the starter switch to the solenoid!
#32
Julie, he had not had it running for a couple of months when I went to look at it. My buddy and I actually got it running there (with the 12V) and I was able to drive it around about a 2 acre area. Also, when the guy picked it up for me, they had it running and drove it up on the trailer. It was only after I got it home and put the 6V battery in it that it would not start.
I might be tempted to purge the gas tank, and fuel lines and put some good clean gas in it. I'd definately change the oil and filter, change the spark plugs (as you have) and drain and replace the coolant.
Also, I had to laugh at the wire coming off the starter solenoid. I'm really suprissed you were able to get the starter to turn over.
BUT, it's running again - that's the good news. Just be careful running it with those wires like that. Not only could you short/weld/catch fire, but you may damage parts that are still good!
And look on the bright side. You may not have to rip it all out, it looks pretty close to either disintegrating and falling out or burning up and falling out all by itself - tee hee - kinda!
#33
Well I finally got it to run and stay running today. Julie, you may have been right about the float sticking, runs pretty smooth and no more leaking around the base of the carb. I put fresh gas in it, but I still need to drop the bowl on the fuel pump and clean that out. I drained the coolant out and I can't tell if actually had any antifreeze in it. From the color and texture (really rusty) I would say it has been in there a long, long time. The shop manual says 23 quarts, but 10 qts of antifreeze and 10 qts of water and it was topped off. Could the other 3 quarts be if it had a heater?
#34
Well I finally got it to run and stay running today. Julie, you may have been right about the float sticking, runs pretty smooth and no more leaking around the base of the carb. I put fresh gas in it, but I still need to drop the bowl on the fuel pump and clean that out. I drained the coolant out and I can't tell if actually had any antifreeze in it. From the color and texture (really rusty) I would say it has been in there a long, long time. The shop manual says 23 quarts, but 10 qts of antifreeze and 10 qts of water and it was topped off. Could the other 3 quarts be if it had a heater?
These Old Flatties were bullet proof. I have heard so many stories here about them not having been run for 10- 15 years and with a squirt of new gas, it fires right up and runs like a top. Can you imagine trying to do that to one of todays newer engines?
I'm excited for you...I'll bet you are excited and anxious to go for a drive!
#35
Caution: That extra will be needed later. Until you run it and get it warmed up enough to open the thermostats, air will be trapped in the top part of the engine. When the thermostats finally open and let that out you will be low on coolant. Warm it up completely in the driveway and top off the coolant before you take of on any kind of a drive!
These Old Flatties were bullet proof. I have heard so many stories here about them not having been run for 10- 15 years and with a squirt of new gas, it fires right up and runs like a top. Can you imagine trying to do that to one of todays newer engines?
I'm excited for you...I'll bet you are excited and anxious to go for a drive!
These Old Flatties were bullet proof. I have heard so many stories here about them not having been run for 10- 15 years and with a squirt of new gas, it fires right up and runs like a top. Can you imagine trying to do that to one of todays newer engines?
I'm excited for you...I'll bet you are excited and anxious to go for a drive!
I'm also not sure if I have a vacuum problem or the wiper motor needs attention. There were no arms or blades when I got the truck, but after running it for about 10 mins, I tried the wiper motor. Turn the switch on and they rotate left and stop. Turn it off, and they rotate back.
#36
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