Starter grinds after engine (2001 7.3L Dsl Auto) starts sometimes, cold or not. If ignition release is timed perfectly it will not grind at all, if not starter will grind or if released to soon naturally engine will fail to start. There is a new-reman starter (not Motorcraft) and new flywheel installed. Problem began when starter was installed, technician's response to problem was that the new-reman starter was starting engine quicker and ignition should not be engaged the same length of time as with the older worn starter (replaced starter was in service until total failure) to avoid grinding starter teeth into flywheel teeth,eventually wearing down flywheel teeth. Any thoughts???????

Addtional Info: Other work performed by technician during same visit, was installation of a new complete battery wiring harness due to deformed terminals only. Two new batteries were also installed.


Thanks

 

is the starter shimmed? if not you can buy a 3 pack of shims for like 2 dollars or something, start with the smallest one and work your way up. this is the only thing i can think of

 

The only way for gear teeth to grind (milling is the proper term) is for the starter to physically retract and then try to re-engage into a running engine. That's is a control issue, not the starter.

You can get some bad sounding noise if the gear backlash is incorrect because the gear teeth are rubbing too much. That can be corrected with shims, assuming the aftermarket starter has the correct tooth profile for your engine.

 

Could it be a possibility that the starter is not disengaging quick enough and is getting caught by the flywheel revloving under the engines power??????

 

that would still come under the shim problem

 

Ok guys time to learn, I am having trouble understanding how this problem comes into play, I mean it sounds like I have the wrong starter installed and shims are just a way to "rig it up". If the starter I have is not defective then is there any chance a stock Motorcraft starter would have this problem????

 

Shims are used to align the starter distance from center of flywheel. This should only be needed with a remanufactured starter. The starter mounting pad is a machined surface that serves as a reference point for other critical dimensions on the starter, such as pinion gear position. Sometimes during remanufacture the mounting pad will be machined flat again which brings in the need for a shim to take up the gap of material that was removed during machining. Another possible problem is that the starter pinion rests (retracted position) too close to the flywheel. This would be a starter manufacturer defect. Are you having trouble with only one brand name of starter?

You really want to get this sorted out immediately. Damage to the ring gear is very expensive since the transmission needs to be removed to replace the ring gear and flex plate. From your description it sounds like this was happening before you replaced the starter. It seems to me that the starter control circuit is malfunctioning, causing the starter to engage into a running engine. A chipped gear tooth is from a low speed rapid re-engagement of the starter into the engine at low cranking speeds. Milled gear teeth (shaved down like you described) happens at higher engine speeds after start up. That's why I think it is a control issue. I would take a look at your key switch or even replace it. That's about all the help I can provide. You'll have to get somebody else to post that knows more about how the control circuit works.

 

Thanks QwkTrip, your explanation has lead me to believe that the installer needed know that is was a reman starter and not brand new, so that he could check the distance from the center of the flywheel. My guess is that the starter is installed to close to the flywheel therefore the starter does not have a chance to withdraw in time to avoid milling the flywheel gear teeth. Maybe a better way to explain it, is that the starter's pinion gear engages too far into the flywheel's gear teeth. You think????

I found out later on that the starter was a reman., so at the time of installation everyone was thinking brand new starter. I should have asked my starter/alternator supplier when I made the purchase, I messed up!!!!

Thanks

 

Went to my starter supplier today and they replaced the starter free of charge due a "dry gear". The truck starts perfectly now, wish I would have taken care of the problem much earlier. Live and learn I guess. I plan on trying to check my flywheel for any damage but let's face it, whats done is done.Unfortunately.

Thanks for all the post.

 

Good deal. I re-read your first post not remembering I had already replied to this thread. With fresh perspective I was thinking that the overrun clutch was making the noise. Then I scroll down and see you figured it out, and it sounds like it was a dry overrun clutch. Sorry I didn't think about that earlier to save you some time.