Just got a new air raid intake and was wonderin how much better they flow statistically over the stock system. The only real power mod i have is an off road exhaust and tuner soon. Because i'm poor i have to do things in steps.lol Thanks

 

None. And they cant filter aswell as OEM either. No offense but you wasted your money.

 

It will not flow more then the stock system until you are around 3700 on the tach. Peak hp and tq on a stock or slightly modified 6.0(which means just tuned) is 3300 and 2000 respectively on the tach. In order to receive any benefit of more flow from the a/m intake you are going to have to raise the range of the truck. Easiest way is to do injectors at the very least, but you should add a turbo for those bigger sticks as well.

I hate to say it, but it's already been mentioned, you aren't going to see benefit of more flow with your current setup. The stock system is better at flow and filtration then anything on the a/m for the 6.0 intake system at this time. given that the 6.0 is no longer in production, I doubt a/m companies will invest more into that to improve those products as well. Go back to stock. It's easier, cheaper(well, it would have been) and just plain better for your truck in the long run unless you are wanting to go bigger with the performance mods.

 

I keep seeing where people state that the stock is better. Does any one have the numbers though?
CFM at a specific pressure (vacuum)?

 

Here are some past threads and some Ford literature:
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 688pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=917 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 688pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 32416" width=917><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 688pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=18 width=917>Air Filter Study:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 688pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=917>http://www.duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 688pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=917>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/570407-k-and-n-why-so-bad.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 688pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=917>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/563149-best-cold-air-intake-brand-for-6-0-a-2.html</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Specifically look at posts 12 and 17 of the thread in the last link. NPCCpartsman and Matt from Spartan have the credentials for the assessment on aftermarket filters!

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 688pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=917 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 688pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 32416" width=917><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 688pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=18 width=917>STOCK AIR FILTER - FORD's POSITION</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

6.0L & 6.4L Power Stroke Diesel
Super Duty and Excursion Air Filtration
Q&A

Q: Don't all filters stop the same amount of contaminants from getting into the engine and turbo?
A: Absolutely not! The 6.0L and 6.4L OE filters, produced by Donaldson Company, Inc., stop 99.99% of contaminants the size of one micron or larger. Some aftermarket filters trap only 95%. What does this mean to an owner? Driven in the same conditions, a 95% filter would pass 50 grams of contaminant through to the engine that would be trapped by the OE filters! Even a 99.00% filter would pass 10 grams of contaminant. This could mean an early end to your engine or turbo.

Q: Won't aftermarket airbox modifications, which use a lower priced filter, save me money?
A: Don't be fooled by aftermarket tactics of comparing the cost of one filter because you also need to know how often you'll need to change filters. The 6.0L and 6.4L OE filters hold more than three pounds of dust, dirt and soot. The aftermarket kits tested by Donaldson Company, Inc. held about half this amount. And don't forget, if these aftermarket replacement filters are less than 99.99% efficient, they pass some contaminant through to the engine that the OE filter would have stopped!

Q: How frequently do the 6.0L and 6.4L OE air filters need to be changed?
A: Everybody's driving habits and environments are different.
Owners/Dealers should check the air filter restriction gauge (located on the upper housing of the air cleaner assembly) at each oil change interval to determine when the filter needs to be changed.
Some vehicles also have a dash light that will illuminate when the filter needs to be changed.
No replacement is necessary until the filter minder (or dash light) gives indication.

Q: My filter minder doesn't seem to move, so shouldn't I check or change the filter to be safe?
A: The filter minder is a gauge that starts registering only after the filter reaches a certain point of being filled. This is why owners do not see it consistently move (like a gas gauge). Rest assured, the filter minder works and there is no reason to check on the filter by removing the airbox cover, thereby increasing the risk of contaminants entering the air intake system. Remember, the 6.0L and 6.4L OE air filters hold more than three pounds of contaminant – so it will take some time to fill!

Q: I want maximum airflow through the system to provide more power. Don't some aftermarket filters provide more airflow than the 6.0L or 6.4L OE air filters?
A: Airflow should not be the determining factor in buying a filter. Think about it: would you ever operate without a filter in place even though you'd get maximum air flow? High airflow generally means the filter is less efficient at stopping contaminants, too. Owners should instead look for the combination of three factors: airflow, how small of contaminant the filter will stop, and how much contaminant the filter will hold. The 6.0L and 6.4L OE filtration systems provide a great combination and it comes standard on all Super Duty and Excursion trucks!

 

Most of the companies show the charts when on the tach(I didn't just pull 3700 rpms out of the air) that it flows more then stock. They actually highlight that portion for you on the charts. Now you have to be careful that you are actually looking at a chart where a 6.0 was used. Alot of the ones out there show 7.3s(where an a/m intake will benefit you greatly stock or tuned), so you have to be careful with that.

3700 is well outside the usable range of the 6.0 when it's stock or just tuned. There are alot of people that are pushing 500+(with which I am one) that are using stock intakes and we are definitely within a rpm range that would make alot of use with extra flow. The extra money that it would cost for an a/m intake at that stage in the game is next to nothing(relatively speaking of course), so don't think it's a bunch of cheap skates trying to pinch any which way they can, if that was the case my truck would just have gauges and that's it.

I don't know any other way to break it to you outside of that. Based on what I know about the limitations of the engine and modding(of which I am no neophyte), and what materials that the a/m companies use to "show" why their products are better then stock, I wouldn't put an a/m intake unless "you" just wanted to have something looking "pretty" under the hood. Maybe a little less upkeep cost(but that would actually be negligible for a good long while unless conditions that "your" truck is under are just harsh for one reason or another), but that's about it. Well then there is the placebo effect. Now, I'm not saying that they don't flow more then stock, it's when they flow more then stock that's the issue and it's too late for it to be of use to 90% of the truck owning population out there.

 

I was asking more in the realm of performance. However, I can not state enough how impressive that 99.99% at one micron is.

No bacterial infections in fords!

 

The best performance measure is horsepower. Air flow by itself means nothing. When dyno's do not show any power benefit, then the measured air flow is not really material.

 

Flow data can more than likely be found at the link below (but will take some digging):

Engine and Vehicle Customer Support - Data Sheets

Found the range of flow chart - varies w/ type of environment (dust amount):

http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/air/chart.html

I estimate 1000 cfm to 1400 cfm

 

You beat me to it. HP is the universal measurement of performance(rather you agree or disagree with that, that's something else).

Airflow in of itself means nothing. You have to bring everything in together and the result would be HP(in this case).

 

You should make the next mod a coolant filtration system. It won't give you more power, but maybe you won't have to change EGR & oil coolers. As for the air intake; you'd been better off doing the zoodad mod and kept the Donaldson intake. Sorry for being candid.

 

And if you live in an area that gets heavy rain or snow, I am not a zoodad advocate.

 

I'm going to try it next spring. I think a lot of the guys that try the zoodad put a screen or some mesh over the hole. I was thinking I would build in a movable baffle that will still allow the air to flow and keep the snow and rain out. Worse comes to worse, it can always be closed off again.
However I'm still not a fan of the aftermarket intake. My last truck had a dusted engine from that.

 

I agree 100%.

 

Not trying to dog you badblueoval but where have you been posting. What I mean is there's alot of info in the tech folder about the six oh and it states the factory air filter is way better than any a/m filter. I just seen you had 177 post and was just curious. I've been noticing alot of people posting questions about canned shift on the fly tuners and a/m filters with alot of posts.

Don't mean this in a hateful manner just curious. Read the tech folder if you hadn't already it could save you some money later down the line. There's alot of good info in there.