Hey everyone, I am finalizing my decisions on parts for my new motor. I am still on the fence about aftermarket rods vs Stock Forged. I am curious how many people have grendaded a set of factory forged and under what circumstances?
I can pickup a set of Hypertechs for $2200, so I am curious also if anyone has any comments about their rods? Are they really any better than factory forged? Why?

They guy at Hypermax actually told me that I didn't need their rods, and that I should just run stock forged. He also said I didn't need head studs... (Found that kinda strange). He suggested stock bolts with O-Ringing my heads/block.

Anyways, any comments you guys have would be greatly appreciated... I am so on the fence about the factory forged, but could slap together a motor right away with factory forged if I want... (Just don't want it to blow up).

 

Id play it safe if and go with preformance rods, and head studs, unless you are on a bit of a tight budget.

 

You must mean Hypermax, guessing for two reasons. . . they make rods(very good rods) and i don't believe hypertech does. . . and I'm guessing you were talking to Ron or Max, because that sounds like what they would say
Timmy

 

Yes, correction, you are right. Hypermax. Ron was the fellow I was speaking to. Any thoughts on his comments? He said they have one running over 100psi of boost with stock rods and stock headbolts, just have the heads O-Ringed.

 

I took his advice when started my build. I have their o ring head gaskets and factory bolts. I Also have factory rods. I've had no problem. Ron really knows what hes talking about. I've argued with him on a few things because I'm stuborn. . . but in the end he has been right I'll be getting his rods when I up the fuel and build my turbo setup. But for now, I'm fine. As long as you don't get some wild *** tuning. . . your setup should be fine with stock rods.
Timmy

 

Fair enough, but I think for my comfort level I am giong to just bite the bullet and put the rods in. Now is my chance and its insurace for a long lasting motor. I need to price out the O-Ring setup and see where that takes me. What kind of pressures are you running for boost? Just stock head bolts eh?

 

Stock head bolts are not a problem on this motor really. Ron wasn't kidding when he said he ran 100 psi on stock bolts. I run 40 PSI normally on single charger. And thats with just over 40 PSI of back pressure so its a pretty tame 40 psi. I was running 45 psi with my last compound setup on the same sticks. Unsure of what the backpressure was there though. If you got the money and time to do the rods you might as well. That is if you plan on more for the future. I didn't really have it at the time, and I knew at some point I would need them, and I will. however I know mymotor will need a freshening up when that time comes so I'll do the rods when i do a full rebuild. That is if I don't destroy it first testing my turbo setups Problem is. . . with my mentality. . . i get the might as wells. Oh well as long as you have the motor out to do rods. . . might as well get some new ceramic coated pistons, girdle. . . hell. . . whole rebuild! Anyway i did the headgaskets and valve springs at the same time since both needed machining and the heads removed. . . i think the both were around 1700 from Hmax. I highly recommend the valve springs. You can hear in the exhaust tone just how much better the motor runs at the high rpms with those in there. I did those on a mostly stock motor and couldn't believe the difference. Any other questions feel free to ask. . . I'm starting to ramble!
timmy

 

So the springs to get are the COMP-910s? I plan on doing springs, rods, pistons will be stock over-sized. Talking about heads now...

Someone told me to get the block o-ringed... I am thinking instead of doing the studs, go with the o-rings and new stock bolts? I know you already commented, but keep in mind that I have a stock housing (I think they are .84) with a Garrett BB turbo making around 45psi. So drive pressure is probably quite high... Is this still ok?

Balancing? What are your thoughts on balancing? If I get new pistons and rods that weigh 40g less than stock rods, is balancing really required when your only around 3000-3500 rpm at most?

Plan on re-using cam/lifters... only 200,000kms on it so....

Guy at the machine shop said he doesn't like to bore the blocks even .010 over because they rot out 7&8 cyls from people not changing their coolant. (Not sure how either of these two motors I have here were treated before I got em). Is .010 over really that big of a deal? He figures I would be looking at cracking cyls with this kind of pressure...

Thats all I got for now... Still trying to finalize my plans... Oh, as far as heads go, I plan on re-using my heads/valves (just new springs as they only have 200,000kms). I will have everything checked, resurfaced, re-grind. (Assuming all comes back with a clean bill of health). Your thoughts?

 

My honest opinion is this. . . you don't want to do all that work for what you are going to get. Drive pressures are your #1 enemy. if you are going to put all that money into the motor. . . Externally wastegate the turbo. . . or go with something larger. I've never heard of anybody not boring out the cylinders. If it were me, i would. I would definitely get it balanced and I'd be inclined to reuse the cam(as long as it mics out good) but replace the lifters. Call Ron as far as valve springs. . . i believe they are the comp 910's but double check to see what he's using specifically. I'm not sure what other companies do when changing valve springs. . . but ther is more to it than just swapping them out. But really it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to put that much money into a motor, and plan on running with that high of back pressures. guys with the GTP38R can chime in here. . . maybe a 1.0 housing is all you need to keep the pressures down. I would do that at the very least! remember. . . when the drive pressured go up. . . it robs power from the motor. So that 45 PSI doesn't mean squat. . . compared to something with more equal drive pressures. Plus the heat it adds, and the stresses on the rods. I would oring the heads personally. . . then if you grenade the block. . . you don't have to machine a new one again As a final thought. . . just think again about the money you are putting in. maybe its not worth putting rods in right now at all. maybe oring heads, valve springs, and a 1.0 housing is all you need. really unless you plan on going with some serious power, thats a pretty save setup and for probably half of what you are planning on spending right now. Do these mods i mentioned now. .. get some more life out of the motor and really decide what you want to do with it. Trust me. . . you'll be having plenty of fun with what i've described!
Timmy

 

I appreciate the suggestions... I guess my fear is that I go with STOCK FORGED rods and blow it up.. I don't EVER plan on doing anything more than MAYBE a Terminator HPOP, but other than that, I don't want anymore than I have. (30-50hp more). Some say go with stock forged, some say don't take the chance... I am SO on the fence about RODS its not even funny. If I don't put the Hypermax rods in it then I have a few extra bucks to play with other things like the 1.15 housing. (Which I am told is actually a 1.0 housing now...I took my stock housing off my stock turbo and put it on the 38r).
I just don't want to be rebuilding this thing again, I want to be able to add the better HPOP, but be reliable... i can't afford to grenade this thing again. I have 2 other motors here that have forged rods and really just need to be rebuilt, wouldn't even need to balance because they are already done.).

Hey, if you got a few, add me to MSN.

Fordzilla@telus.net

 

this link will help you with your questions..these guy's are all about HP

o-ring or fire ring??? - Powerstroke Nation