Well I'm new here. Here's me. Here's my intro thread. Go here if you want pics.

Anyways, if you don't go there here's where I'm at. 1987 F-150 2WD, 4.9 I6. 4 Speed manual with OD. Got the I6 cause I drive an I6 as a daily and wanted both the car and truck to have an I6. Daily is a 1984 Toyota Supra. Don't hate. I'm here ain't I? Ha.

The truck was advertised with a miss that was diagnosed/misdiagnosed as bad fuel problem. Sold to me for $300 and drove it home. A 300 for $300, can't beat that. The miss definitely smoothed out during revs, more noticeable at idle, she did 65mph like nothing, but I had to stay in 3rd. Seller had replaced plugs, wires, and fuel filter. Said don't switch to rear tank.

Checked gap on plugs. Changed wires again after finding a bad #2 wire, didn't help. Parked it, drained oil, disassembled. Showed spark plugs to the Master Tech I work with. #2 and #3 were moist and #5 and #6 showed signs of dry firing. Grabbed 6 injectors. Upper Intake to Lower intake gasket had chunk missing near #2. Two intake push rods (#2 and #3) weren't seated on their respective rocker arms. No way those valves could open. Is it possible I drove home on 2 cylinders? Siphoned out bad fuel from both tanks, rear extremely bad (black), front going to dad's lawnmower. Dropped front tank (replacing sending unit, gauge was screwy driving home). Trying to drop rear tank, fighting those rusted bolts suck.

I'm not going down to the head gasket. Oil was good but dirty, no milkshake. Bad gas can cause smoke.

I'm replacing all gaskets I'm come in contact with, thermostat, plugs, dizzy, rotor, all push rods, all lifters, front fuel level sending unit, pcv valve, serp belt, and other minor things. I'll keep this updated, whenever I can work on it. The ol lady wants all of my spare time

 

Hey, dude--

That sounds like a fun project at a good price too. I would of course change your filters. The rocker arms being off the pushrods...that bothers me. If I were you I would check the cam lobes, and also the nuts which hold the rocker arms, and the studs they are screwed into. Rocker arms don't just come off their pushrods for no reason. Maybe something has been changed from oem? cracked rockers?

How many miles are on the engine? How long did it sit?

Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

Yep yep. PCV breather filter, air filter, oil filter and fuel filter are all being swapped out. In fact the PCV and air filter are already fresh and waiting to be used haha.

Of the two push rods that were not seated, one of the rockers was loose, you could move it with your hands, one was not. I will inspect the the rocker bolts and studs real quick before I put those new push rods in. The bottom of both the lifters were nice and smooth. Haven't yanked the other 10 yet, gotta do that.

The truck has either almost 100K on it or almost 200K, I seriously doubt I'm nearing 300K. 91,xxx on the dash (can't remember exact right this second. The seller was nice enough to avoid the true mileage question haha, but the engine parts I've seen so far don't look very worn. Inspection expired 9/09, but he had it sitting a few months before he put it up for sale.

 

When you replace the lifters, or just inspect the ones you have, check the cam they are sitting on, and make sure there is a lobe to make the lifters go up and down, and not just a round shaft.

 

I will be sure to do that. Although I'm sure there is a lobe, since I could hear that something wasn't right inside the valve cover. You could hear it at idle, and when you blipped the throttle. It makes since I was hearing those two push rods banging around.

I have all my parts, but of course it's raining. Makes me want to change out the fuel sending unit up here in my room haha. Might just do that.

Uh...so yea gonna check the cam out ASAP.

Oh, I saw fuel on my dual function reservoir. I'm gonna have to look into that. Don't need no fuel leaks, she ain't gonna be great on gas as it is haha. Previous owner says I can switch to rear no problem, just don't cause the rear tank has crap in it (I can confirm that). So hopefully I can switch no problemo, but still don't want leaks.

 

Well, it looks like I'll be waiting a little longer. Taking a good look inside the front tank, everything's rusty. Money spent on cleaning it properly is almost the amount of buying a new one. I'll probably be getting new tanks and new in-tank pumps. I believe both in-tank pumps work, but they've gone through hell, who knows how long they have.

Guess I'll get the engine work done and back together so I can get the tank work done then crank her up. Another fine reason why vehicles are meant to be driven haha.

 

Sometimes you can find a 'pick-your-part' vehicle on Craig's list and buy used tanks for much cheaper than new. Or try the junk yard. Good luck.

 

Tanks are a PITA to work on unless one can take the bed off so everything is readily exposed.

 

restorer, I'll be heading to a few yards soon and take my siphon pump with me. See how many tanks have gas in them and how many are them are in the same condition as mine. That's what I'm worried about. Going through a ton of bad apples to find one, when I could just save up the cash and buy one brand new. On JY quoted me 65 without sending unit/pump for the mid tank. $40 more and I get a brand new never before used one haha.

Set backs are set backs, I'll take it in stride. I should be out there now putting in the new rods and lifters haha.

 

Good luck. For $40 bucks more I think I'd buy the new any day! But I also think you're getting ripped on the price to start with. I just checked my local Pick-your-part junkyard, and they sell tanks for $30 flat rate. And about once a month they have a half off sale.

I would also go online to lmc truck, and check the price there for a new one. I replaced my rear tank a few years back for a 38 gallon one, and it cost me over $200.

The yards usually drain all the tanks.

 

Yea the junkyard that wants $65 is called Pete's. I'm gonna have to check Pick-N-Pull and see what they quote me. Alas, have no money right now so all I can do is get the engine stuff done. Should get a decent torque wrench as a Christmas present so I'll be sure everything's torqued to specc haha.

 

I think about $30-$40 is a fair price.

Get yourself a good manual too. You can get one at the library, or download the info you need. Don't just torque to spec., but follow proper sequence too, and use a good head gasket goop, gasket sealer.
Clean the bolts on a wire wheel or with a brush. Clean out the bolt holes REAL good too. You don't want any gasket sealer buggers down in there. Moly lube would be good on the h. bolt threads.

Keep the cylinder bores covered, and with a coating of WD40 on them to prevent rust. Squirt oil over the rocker arms, valve springs, push rods. I think I would use a drill motor to spin the oil pump before you start it, and pump oil up through the valve assembly. Be careful not to squirt it over everything.

 

I've got a Hayne's manual (have one for all my cars actually) and any other info I need is online somewhere. I don't believe I've got to go all the way down to the head gasket, so I'm not going that far right now.

I'm thinking the truck sat for a good while with gas in the tanks, and condensation occured. Water got in the gas, and rusted the tanks also. Water in the fuel is being burned off causing it to smoke. Rust particles should get filtered but that water won't. Oil hadn't been mixed with coolant and coolant wasn't mixed with oil and coolant level did not drop after driving. Oil level didn't rise. If the truck does have a BHG after all this, I'll probably swap a motor in and build the BHG motor.

 

I guess when you mentioned torque wrench I assumed the head was off.


Oh well.

 

Hello folks. Been real quiet and real busy. Truck's still not done, I'm finishing her up and hopefully will be done before March.

I'll explain later. I have a favor to ask.

Anyone ever put that last Upper-to-lower intake manifold bolt in backwards to make life easier? I'm putting the mani back on now. That last bolt was a bitch to take off, had to do it from underneath the truck. Now it's time to put it back on and I'd like to make it easier. Put the bolt in thru the top and thread it down instead of threading it up. Nothing bolts to it from top or bottom so I don't see why not unless it messes up the seal. Ground from hood is already bolted on.

If anyone approves or disapprove, please let me know. I've bolted it like that, nice and tight. Gonna go back out and put the throttle body and EGR Valve on the mani.