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Ok, I pulled 22k today for about 60 miles, about 29+k total weight. After that I let the truck idle for about five minutes to let it all cool down. I know I should have let it idle longer, but my partner was in a rush, and I couldn't get out of the truck because my parking brake wouldn't hold the load back. Then I had to move it about 5 minutes later and I had to crank on it for a while, then it fired and ran terrible, missing, died once, etc. It then started running fine, but every now and then, it was like somebody turned the key off for a sec. Not to completely die, but like a car that all off a sudden looses spark only to get it back again. Throughout the day I had to move it several times as we needed to use the load. Well now i have to crank a few seconds before it will start. My truck always fired instantly when it was warm. I never even have to use the glow plugs unless it sits all night. And last but not least, the engine light will come on for a few seconds when I start it. Today was the first time I had ever even seen the check engine light before.
Oh, and I tried my best not to work it hard. I don't have a egt gauge, but i do have a boost gauge. Pulling grades I would always drop a few psi down from max, what ever that would be relative to rpm and gear.
Any Ideas? I am a little worried. I don't have the time or money to fix any major repair right now.
Just seems strange that these 7.3's cant be ran hard for any length of time. Any of our other diesels can take that no prob and just keep on going.
I think you might have some other unrelated issue. I work the dog shi.... out of mine, just like those other diesels!! I also pulled a 42' enclosed trailer, weighted in at 25K (33K total), for 12,500 miles without a problem. You should check all the sensors.
Ok, I pulled 22k today for about 60 miles, about 29+k total weight. After that I let the truck idle for about five minutes to let it all cool down. I know I should have let it idle longer, but my partner was in a rush, and I couldn't get out of the truck because my parking brake wouldn't hold the load back. Then I had to move it about 5 minutes later and I had to crank on it for a while, then it fired and ran terrible, missing, died once, etc. It then started running fine, but every now and then, it was like somebody turned the key off for a sec. Not to completely die, but like a car that all off a sudden looses spark only to get it back again. Throughout the day I had to move it several times as we needed to use the load. Well now i have to crank a few seconds before it will start. My truck always fired instantly when it was warm. I never even have to use the glow plugs unless it sits all night. And last but not least, the engine light will come on for a few seconds when I start it. Today was the first time I had ever even seen the check engine light before.
Oh, and I tried my best not to work it hard. I don't have a egt gauge, but i do have a boost gauge. Pulling grades I would always drop a few psi down from max, what ever that would be relative to rpm and gear.
Any Ideas? I am a little worried. I don't have the time or money to fix any major repair right now.
Just seems strange that these 7.3's cant be ran hard for any length of time. Any of our other diesels can take that no prob and just keep on going.
when you crank it does the tach move? my truck would do that while driving down the road which turned up to be the CPS, but doubt this is your problem. this is an electrical problem your having somewhere. i would start checking fuses, check the tach when you crank it, check the fuel pressure, oil level/quality just so you can knock some stuff off the list so we aren't all asking you every question in the book. any extra smoke now from before???
when you crank it does the tach move? my truck would do that while driving down the road which turned up to be the CPS, but doubt this is your problem. this is an electrical problem your having somewhere. i would start checking fuses, check the tach when you crank it, check the fuel pressure, oil level/quality just so you can knock some stuff off the list so we aren't all asking you every question in the book. any extra smoke now from before???
I am not sure if the tac moves. I will check the oil in the morning. I checked it less than a week ago, and it has never burned a drop before. Its not due for another oil change for another 1000, I change it every 4k. No smoke at all. I cant get the thing to smoke if I tried. Everything seems fine, just doesn't start like it did. Runs the exact same except for the starting, and check engine lite.
My truck did the exact same thing as yours on a heavy trip downstate one day. I pulled into a rest stop, shut it off then when I restarted it it felt like 4 cylinders fell out. I turned it off and restarted and it was ok. A week later my cps went out and I replaced it then a week after that I had to do all the injector o rings. It runs perfect now.
about 8 bucks a piece depending on where you get them. I like the Alliant brand o rings. It's worth it to just replace them if they are original. Can't hurt.
Now I am stuck!!! I drove it about 35 miles this morning to pick up a trailer at my parents. I shut it off for 10 minutes and now It wont start. It just cranks. This sucks
That sucks. Something is draining down somewhere. You're going to have to find it. I'm not sure where to start without seeing it.
I guess to get it restarted you are going to have to treat it like you just pulled the injectors. Crank it till it fires. Don't go more than 15-20 seconds on the starter at a time without letting it cool.
Its heat related! I went back out to my parents place after about 7 hours and it started like nothing was wrong. I then left to go straight to International to talk to them, and I did the most boneheaded thing I have done in a long time. I stalled in the busiest intersection in town, and of course, it didnt start back up again. I then was towed to our shop and promptly went and bought a crank sensor. That did nothing. I thew up my hands and went home in my dads dodge cummins of all things. He was laughing at me and my 7.3.
Injector pressure regulator, its mounted on the HPOP. Might be just bad O rings on it.
Sounds cheap and easier to fix. What one is it. Looks like there are several around that area. I tried disconnecting them all one at a time and that didn't work.
Do the HPOP go bad? If so, how can I figure that out. I will grab our code reader tomorrow and see if I can pull some codes.