That's a valve guide.They will either press or drive it out and put a new one in.Make sure they check the rest of them for excessive wear or cracks.Could have been when it was over heated maybe a valve stuck and just got tapped by a piston or the rocker arm.Make sure that you check over all your valve gear (rocker arms,studs,keepers,collars,springs and push rods)real close,if in doubt,throw it out.When you have your valves ground,look them over good for gualling and wear on the stems.If one is bent it will show up when ground.Have a good experienced guy do the grind work and when they do the seats have them cut 3 angle.if you can afford it.Be sure not to cheap out on the valve seals,use good ones.By the way,it would be a good idea to take a look at the piston on what ever cylinder that was,you may be changing them anyway but it may show a little valve hit.Keep up the good work and keep asking.

 

OK, that makes sense. I was thinking it was cast with the rest of the head, I must have just been having a stupid moment. I've come to the conclusion that I don't HAVE to have the truck on the road anytime soon so I will just take my time. The kit comes with new push rods, and I'm going to run chevy rocker arms to increase lift. I'm probably just going to rebuild the entire valve train as i already have it apart and might as well. It would kill me it i had to take it apart again because I broke a valve spring or a bent a valve,so I'll go ahead and get it done right. What I'm thinking of doing is on top of the rebuild kit running chevy rocker arms, zero decking my block to increase compression alittle, going with an offy or Clifford 4 barrel intake, with a Holley 390 cfm carb. I will probably get the carb used and rebuild it, or see if our family friend who races mustangs might have one for a good price. Then running efi manifolds and running true duals with an x pipe. I'm also thinking of changing out my transmission for the nv4500 I think it is which is the 5 speed with granny gear. Opinions on this set-up please and any recommendations from anyone more experienced are wanted.

P.S. Oh and my transfer case is getting rebuilt while it's out as it leaks.

P.S.S. Does anyone know where to get new or remand rods all I have seen are eagle h beams and they are like $600 a set?

 

I think your stock rods are forged and most auto machine shops reman them,I would just have the original one reconditioned and put new bolts and nuts on them.You will probably lose me on the 4 BBL as I really don't have the experience on them,that a lot of the guys on here do,and believe me,they talk them up all the time.EFI manifolds are a wise way to go,a lot less hassle than the headers that leak,block off starters,and create exhaust system nightmares.Don't forget that oil pan,when they rust out and leak,changing one on the truck is a real sob.

 

I would start checking Craig's list and ebay for the intake. The Clifford intake is less work to install because you don't have to make a cooling/heating plate for it. It will also allow you to mount your carb length wise, instead of 90 degrees to the engine.

Many engine kits will allow you to upgrade to a performance cam. I would rather see you do that than swap to the chevy rockers. Buy quality parts and gaskets. Some day when you're on a long trip and it's dark and you're cruising along, you'll be happy you bought the good stuff.

Also, if you have time, start thinking about porting and polishing that head. It will make a world of difference. Also, check out a site called go fast for less.

I also wanted to mention something: decide what you want from your engine, a goal for it. Do you want a racer? a stock, dependable daily driver, 10, 15, 20 mpg? Mildly modified but still using regular gas? Don't just start putting parts together, but have a plan. Do your research, read a lot. Know what your compression will be if you zero deck the block. Know how much more hp it will give you, and where your compression has to end if you want to use regular gas.

Proceed as though it is school project. That is the smart way to do it.

Good luck.

 

Well, I think I've decided to go a different route for now due to finances. I think I'm going to browse Pull-a-Part for a wrecked truck with a 300 in it a pull the head off to make sure the bores are good and drop the pan to make sure everything in there is good. Does this sound like a good idea. After I do that I will get the re-ring kit from northern auto parts. Now I've got a few questions, could I get a motor out of the newest truck there. like say I find a 1995 with a 300 could I get it as i plan on getting a offy or clifford intake anyway. What if any problems would I encounter in doing this. Also should I pull the wiring harness from that truck also as the previous owner really screwed jerry rigged alot of things. How hard would it be to make my owner wiring and what all would have to be wired.