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On my 09' Ranger, I'm going to swap the factory fluids around 10K miles. Does the diff. use a gasket or just RTV? I'm going to use Schaeffer's products throughout.
Also, anyone know what the diff and tranny pan bolts should be torqued to?
I would be carefull with the pan bolts, aluminum is real easy to strip, not sure what the spec is but I would not go over 30 lbs ft. On the diff, just get them good and tight. You can use rtv to seal it, no need for a gasket. I used a small pump and pumped the diff oil out through the fill hole. It took a long time due to the 140 w oil, but I've seen to many leaking diff covers and didn't wanna pull it off. Just wondering, why change all the fluids at 10k ? Are you just wanting to get the break in metal out?
I would be carefull with the pan bolts, aluminum is real easy to strip, not sure what the spec is but I would not go over 30 lbs ft. On the diff, just get them good and tight. You can use rtv to seal it, no need for a gasket. I used a small pump and pumped the diff oil out through the fill hole. It took a long time due to the 140 w oil, but I've seen to many leaking diff covers and didn't wanna pull it off. Just wondering, why change all the fluids at 10k ? Are you just wanting to get the break in metal out?
Thanks for the reply. I have the same concern as you, as far as leaking diff. cover. I would guess most leaky diffs are due to 1. Inadequate curing time for the RTV and 2. Overfilling of the differential. I could be wrong though, but it seems logical.
Yes, that's one of the reasons why I want to change the factory fluids. That's also why I want to remove the diff cover, to get it all out. But mainly I want to do this to switch the fluids to Schaeffer's synthetic lubes. As a weak point on these trucks, I want one of the best ATF's in the transmission. I may actually even install a +3qt pan with a drain plug (drool).
As for using a pump vs. the removing the diff. cover, I'm not 100% yet, as I'm afraid of leaks too. But if I do, I plan on letting the RTV cure possibly overnight, or at least 8 hours. What do you think?
I've had good luck with RTV by putting the bolts in just far enough until you are certain the RTV is squeezed evenly, and like you say, let it cure overnight. The next day you can run them down to spec, and you have made a gasket with the RTV, whereas if you squeeze it all out by fully tightening the bolts in the first place, and the RTV shrinks at all, you can create a leak.
I've had good luck with RTV by putting the bolts in just far enough until you are certain the RTV is squeezed evenly, and like you say, let it cure overnight. The next day you can run them down to spec, and you have made a gasket with the RTV, whereas if you squeeze it all out by fully tightening the bolts in the first place, and the RTV shrinks at all, you can create a leak.
Good point, that makes sense.
Oops forgot to ask one more thing. I know the Factory Fill on this truck is 80w90 conventional lube. From what I've gathered, all Rangers take 4oz. of friction modifier, correct? What I'm putting in there is 75w90 Schaeffer Supreme and 4oz. of Motorcraft FM(as long as it takes it).
You need only put the friction modifier in the limited slip differential. It makes the clutch packs work smoothly. otherwise the clutches will make clunking noises around corners.
What I get in my Ford shop manual for the "87" code axle is 4.10 ratio, 7.5 ring gear, non limited slip.
In the section that tells how to rebuild the differentials, the friction modifier is only listed for the limited slip differential. Maybe the dealer is trying to get a few extra bucks? I don't know. It wouldn't hurt anything if you wanted to put it in there, but it is not needed.
I just looked in the tech folder and there wasn't a write up. Maybe when you do it you could take a few pics and do a little write up...
Anyway, I recently changed out the fluid and replaced the rear diff cover on my F-350 with the '09 cover made out of finned aluminum and here is the write up I followed on doing that project ...
Hope it helps. What is the reccomended service interval for these anyways? In the F-350 it is 100K but mine looked like a milkshake after 73K so I'm glad I changed it.
I plan to replace the pinion seal on the FRONT differential on my '03 Ranger. Besides that leaking, whoever had the truck before me did a poor job with the RTV on the front cover. The big problem is that the cover is about a quarter inch from the frame, and leads me to believe I have a tough job ahead of me. I hope I don't have to remove the front housing all the way, but it could come to that. I did replace fluid when I first got the truck using the suction pump method. Harbor Freight has a handy pump that can be used for all sorts of things, including gas siphoning. It is item 66418-1VGA, "multi use transfer pump". Ya can't beat it for 10 bucks!
What I get in my Ford shop manual for the "87" code axle is 4.10 ratio, 7.5 ring gear, non limited slip.
In the section that tells how to rebuild the differentials, the friction modifier is only listed for the limited slip differential. Maybe the dealer is trying to get a few extra bucks? I don't know. It wouldn't hurt anything if you wanted to put it in there, but it is not needed.
If that's correct, I'm surprised by the 4.10 gearing, I had no idea. If it's not needed then I don't want to waste any money. Plus, Schaeffer's mentions this lube is compatible w/ limited slip diffs as-is.
I guess you would want to stick with the 7.5 housing, since it is lighter. Seems a 3.73
is the lowest numerical the 4 banger was equipped with, so you probably wouldn't want to lug it down with anything lower. Just out of curiousity, have you figured out your MPG?
I'm not sure of the Brand of pump I used. It was a small air powered one that was laying around the shop. Most people call these style pumps, "peanut pumps," due to the fact that they look like a peanut. Anyway, you don't need the friction modifier, and actually not all ls diffs. require it. My truck is equipped with a torsen ls that is all gears and has no clutches. I think that 4.10 gearing would be nice on the 2.3l, especially with an auto tranny. And for the guy with the pinion seal. If the leak isn't that bad then just leave it alone. I replaced mine a couple of times but it always starts leaking again. I finally gave up. The frond diff. cover probably won't come off without droping the whole housing. Looking at mine, there seams to be no way to do it, just not enough room. Even if you did manage to get it off it would be hard to properly clean and re seal it.
I guess you would want to stick with the 7.5 housing, since it is lighter. Seems a 3.73
is the lowest numerical the 4 banger was equipped with, so you probably wouldn't want to lug it down with anything lower. Just out of curiousity, have you figured out your MPG?
Yes, I keep detailed records of MPG as I drive about 1,000 miles per week. Anyways, I average 24-26mpg, mixed driving w/ highway being more than city(courier).
Well guys; as of 3/19/10, I finally did the job! I know, took way too long BTW, the truck has 22,500 miles now. The job went well, and so far no leaks(knock on wood). I love this truck. A little more power would be nice, but at just under 26mpg average, I'm not complaining much.
Next job: Pan drop and cooler line flush with Schaeffer's All Trans ATF.