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Okay, well it looks like I might be the victim of a bad grounding issue. I hooked a jumper cable to the negative battery post, and connected the other end to the smog pump. I gave a quick jab of the key, and it fired right up! I disconnected the ground yesterday when I was working on the truck, but I did not really see any problems. I am just going to put on a new cable. This one is not factory. Where is the best spot to hook it up on these, or does it matter so long as it is making good contact to the engine block?
Final answer - the ground cable was bad, even though it showed 0 ohms on the ohmmeter, I replaced it with a larger one and the truck fired on a half revolution.
lol, i've got a olds like that...
I FIXED IT
nope...
FIXED!!!
nope
FI-
nope
ect ect ect
Fun Fact:
if you do need to re-ring the flex plate the easiest way we found is to just heat the ring to 500 in the oven and throw the plate in the freezer (or at this time of year just outside) will fall right on! ask pintoches
I replaced the module, the starter, ignition switch, starter solenoid, and the battery cables, including the one going to the starter.
The starter would still sound like it is binding after the truck has run, and started to cool down - almost like it was overheating.
Well, I checked, and I had a leak in one of the heater hoses, so my truck HAD BEEN overheating. I fixed it, and it seems to start better, but still sounds like it is binding sometimes.
What else can it be? I never had this problem before the other day when I broke down.
I thought about that, but it is only set at 12 to 13 degrees (the vacuum advance hits the water neck and will not let it go farther). I replaced the push on connector from the ignition switch to the solenoid and it got a little better, but I am still getting this on occasion. I am wondering if it might be in the wiring now.
Sort of. I added a ground to the frame and another to the body. It might be the battery, but I am not sure yet and will have to test. It has gotten a lot better.