Too dumb to pull codes
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Batavia, OH
Too dumb to pull codes
Hey all, I've been trying to check the codes in my truck for weeks with no luck. I have a 1990 F250, 4.9, ZF 5spd.
I jumper the SIG-RTN to STI, turn the key to run, and then the check engine light turns on and the fuel pump kicks on twice. Then the CEL just stays solid. No flashes, nothing.
I tried this with the truck in neutral, the clutch in and out, the brake in and out, the parking brake in and out, and all possible combos. Had the radio off, no electronics going.
Today I hooked up a test light and it didn't flash, but it's a 110 Volt wall outlet tester so maybe it has too much resistance to use for this (?).
Can anyone give me any tips on this? Am I forgetting something? Should I grab another test light?
I jumper the SIG-RTN to STI, turn the key to run, and then the check engine light turns on and the fuel pump kicks on twice. Then the CEL just stays solid. No flashes, nothing.
I tried this with the truck in neutral, the clutch in and out, the brake in and out, the parking brake in and out, and all possible combos. Had the radio off, no electronics going.
Today I hooked up a test light and it didn't flash, but it's a 110 Volt wall outlet tester so maybe it has too much resistance to use for this (?).
Can anyone give me any tips on this? Am I forgetting something? Should I grab another test light?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
My only though is if your only putting 12 volts in a 110 volt tester, it may be mighty dim or won't light at all. Try the tester on your truck battery and see what it does, if you can't reach between the two posts, put one end on the positive terminal and the other the nearest ground spot. I'm curious, post back with what it does. I don't play(work) with electricity much.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,476
Likes: 224
From: Frequently frozen MN
I just looked over at fordfuelinjection.com, and for some reason they recommend connecting the STI to a negative batt terminal or a body ground.
It's a pretty good site to check out in any event. Your truck doesn't sound as if it's going into self test mode.
It's a pretty good site to check out in any event. Your truck doesn't sound as if it's going into self test mode.
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
This code reader has a digital display. I have it and think its great.
Zip Code Select | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Zip Code Select | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 42
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From: Batavia, OH
My only though is if your only putting 12 volts in a 110 volt tester, it may be mighty dim or won't light at all. Try the tester on your truck battery and see what it does, if you can't reach between the two posts, put one end on the positive terminal and the other the nearest ground spot. I'm curious, post back with what it does. I don't play(work) with electricity much.
Originally Posted by ford2go;
I just looked over at fordfuelinjection.com, and for some reason they recommend connecting the STI to a negative batt terminal or a body ground.
It's a pretty good site to check out in any event. Your truck doesn't sound as if it's going into self test mode.
It's a pretty good site to check out in any event. Your truck doesn't sound as if it's going into self test mode.
As for a scanner, that's my very last resort. The wife isn't a big fan of me spending my $$ so if I can check these for free I will =)
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Sounds like you are doing it right.. the fact it doesn't produce any flashing means you either have a wiring problem or the EEC is bad. You can verify the wiring by disconnecting it from the computer and buzzin the lines with a DMM, unfortunately there is no bench test for the computer but have a look at the connector to make sure there are no pins pushed back in or corrosion on them. Be sure to disconnect the battery first.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
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From: Lakewood, Ohio
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Des Moines
Total I spent $45 for both, but after telling my wife that they'll have paid for themselves after just one use, she was fine with it.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 42
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From: Batavia, OH
Looks like no rain today, so I'll check my old test light and then maybe see if I can't fix up a small test light with radio shack parts. If that doesn't work then I'll 'talk' it over with the wife 
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Batavia, OH
lol but why buy an ODBI scanner just for my truck when a $5 test light and some patience will work just as well? If it turns out my ECC is bad then the scanner wouldn't work anyway, right?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Pulling codes with a scanner is way better than counting blinks. Too much margin for error. I can't tell you how many people post stuff like: I got these codes: 1, 12, 43, 535, and 209580809480. What do they mean?
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 4
From: Baltimore
Buy the dang scanner, get your rig straight, then charge anyone $10-20-25 for a scan, and it paid for itself. Pocket the extras, and buy another gadget for the rig. That piece of equipment can and will pay for itself if you use it. It isn't a thingy for the wall to just look at...Think of it that way. When I buy a tool for the truck or shop, I don't explain anything, unless it's a huge output of $, but for that amount, (scanner) the investment is justified. Shouldn't be any
about it...
about it...
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