When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The other head I have came off this motor before I cleaned it up and put gaskets and seals and changed the head. So I know that the head is good. I just need to clean it up and put it on if needed.
It could take a real good run to get that anti-freeze out completely,it's nasty stuff and you may have a good bit of it in your cat or muffler,or other low spots.I would replace those plugs,once fouled,they are never right again and they aren't that expensive.I have seen oil stains around the base of faulty plugs on Harley Davidsons,changed the plugs and cleaned the stain off and never had it come back (used to be an H-D mechanic and service mgr for years),I don't know for sure,but I think unburned gas and oil off the walls seeped through the plug threads.I know that when plugs don't fire consistently,weird things go on inside the cylinder.I would do away with that variable,you have enough to concentrate on with out other little gremlins.
Well my luck maybe changing for the better. I changed the plugs out with new ones, readjusted the rocker arms and started it up. It runs much better but still has some water vapor coming out the exhaust. I've got the radiator filled back up and will have to see if it loses any over the next day or so. Have my fingers crossed that it's fixed.
I did notice that the #2 cylinder exhaust rocker nut was backing off as I initially ran it. They have double nuts on them. I retightened it and will have to keep an eye on it.
It's made by Tremec, which I believe was German owned at the time, and is called an SROD (single rail overdrive.)
It was put in trucks from around 80 - 83 and is pretty light duty (the casing is aluminum). I wouldn't recommend it for anyone wanting to abuse their truck but I do a lot of highway driving and camping with it and it's fine. Overdrive is great, but it's missing a much needed low gear.
It looks like I'm good to go. Coolant level is staying full, I drove it to work and back today. About 20 miles round trip and no problems.
Does anyone have any good advice on how to set the rocker arm clearance?
I had the rocker loose and tightened it until there was no play between it and the pushrod, then turned it an additional 1/2 turn. I have an extra nut on it to keep it lock down. There is just a little bit of a miss that i didn't have before and I think it is because of the rocker arms and the adjustment. I didn't have it before the head gasket change.
I tried turning them a full turn after the play was out and it wouldn't hardly run.
Really glad to hear the engine seems to be okay. Maybe you dodged a bullet on that one.
As for the rocker arms, which one is it? The 77 or the 82? (From your sig.)
On my 81, a mechanic told me that by that time, they were set by torque, not by adjustment. IIRC, it was 20ft/lbs a piece and it was good to go. Did that on mine a few years ago (after spending HOURS trying to adjust them the old way) and it's purred like a kitten for a few years now.
Not sure what year the motor was out of. I got it out of a 78 F100 but it wasn't the original in it. I adjusted them according to the old chilton's manual I have. I have a bunch of 82 ford manuals but none of them cover the motor.
I may just try the 20 ft lbs torque way and see what happens. Can't hurt anything.
Re-checked my plugs this morning and they look really good still.
The motor seems to be doing fine. I've drove it to work a couple of days and made a 80 mile trip yesterday with no problems. I still need to readjust the rocker arms to make sure I got them right. Have to be a day when it's not snowing.
AbandonedBronco did you do the rocker arm adjustment on a cold engine or after it was warmed up?
Hey Ranger, it was a while ago, but considering the mess I was having up until that point, I don't think it was drivable, so probably was done on a cold engine.
I tried to do the 20 ft/lb's for the rockers and it just ran the nuts down to the bottom of the stud. Truck wouldn't run that way. I had to take the play out and turn the nut an addition 1/2 to 3/4 turn for it to run right. It still had a little miss. I changed a couple of the plugs that were a little black and it runs fine now. I just wish it wasn't so cold so I could get back to tuning the carb. Suppose to get back into the 40's this week so maybe I can work on it a little.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.