1977 e350 frame for rv
1977 e350 frame for rv
looking to replace fuel tank on 1977 holiday rambler rv-e350 ford frame-460 v8- need aft axle fuel tank, would prefer at least 40 gal. will have to retro fit something off newer unit. also wondering if manual fuel pump enough to handle moving fuel 24 feet. unit has external elect. pump in line but its dead. read on forum where elect unit engaged long enough to prime system until running. any help would be appreciated as i am starting at ground zero. presently checking on having tank made and wondering how to handle sending unit. thanks
> if manual fuel pump enough to handle moving fuel 24 feet.
On the engine would be except for the fact on your vehicle it is probably well above the fuel tank gas level. That is why the electric is used, it is inserted in the frame below the fuel tank for the siphon effect.
From doing this on older cars, the best thing is to make a custom bracket (well protected from road debris or rear end collision) to have the pump below the fuel tank inside the frame, then pump to a fuel pressure regulator at the carb. Make sure to tie the pump into an ignition on only source, you are well advised to tie the pump power source into a relay and use the key on to only activate the relay. You can buy the relays on E-Bay or ww.jcw.com. I like to put the ground directly to the battery or a ground bar and not rely on the frame.
You can take a fuel shut off switch from a B2 and rig that into the key on source as a added measure of safety, that should go up front near the driver.
On the engine would be except for the fact on your vehicle it is probably well above the fuel tank gas level. That is why the electric is used, it is inserted in the frame below the fuel tank for the siphon effect.
From doing this on older cars, the best thing is to make a custom bracket (well protected from road debris or rear end collision) to have the pump below the fuel tank inside the frame, then pump to a fuel pressure regulator at the carb. Make sure to tie the pump into an ignition on only source, you are well advised to tie the pump power source into a relay and use the key on to only activate the relay. You can buy the relays on E-Bay or ww.jcw.com. I like to put the ground directly to the battery or a ground bar and not rely on the frame.
You can take a fuel shut off switch from a B2 and rig that into the key on source as a added measure of safety, that should go up front near the driver.
On a old 37' RV I scrapped had a electric pulse fuel pump about mid way back. It was factory wired to the 12V+ side of the ignition coil. There was no fuel return from the engine so with mechanical pump and that electric pump running, looks like it ran fine.
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