I decided to try the GM 4 pin module because I wanted to keep the newer style square coil that I had been using. The square coil can take full voltage (14.5 volts or so) and the GM HEI module will work with any coil. The square coil is supposed to be an improved coil over the older round ones. Also the coil is just a step up transformer, so more voltage in means higher voltage potential on the secondary output across the plugs.
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For the record I do recommend using all matching Ford Duraspark 2 parts including the engine harness. This helps the truck look stock and is easier for any mechanic to work on it.
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These photos I posted where right after I got it running, more of a quick and dirty toss it together to see if it will work attitude. I have cleaned it up with better connectors, soldering is a good choice for the wires if you have the stuff to do it on hand.

I still have the second 4 pin module on the truck as my ride along spare part, not ready to fully trust the GM part.

Jim

 

Wow well I finally got around to doing the swap (most of it)

Pulled the entire old wiring harness out.... I counted 37 connectors.... I'd say at least 10 were completely disconnected, as well as countless vacuum hoses going to nothing. (old missing smog equip)

Put in the new one which has I think 6..... New dist, coil, ignition module from napa.

The module plugged right into the existing plugs coming out of the fire wall, everything snapped together. I went to start it and the starter ticked very fast, then the electrical in my car (lights etc) COMPLETELY died for ~ 30 seconds..
Tested the voltage everywhere, had power to everything. Coil even is only getting 7 in run as it should, so obviously the balast resistor shown in all the diagrams is in the firewall somewhere....

Hooked a jumper to my battery and it fired right up. I know my battery is old, and I'm going to replace it and see if that fixes my problem. Maybe the DS2 system just draws more power than the TFI.... Also may have a short somewhere


Only thing not working is my oil pressure gauge....its hooked up, but the wire might not make it to the gauge? I dunno it worked before. I'll trouble shoot that after I swap the carb over.


I'll post some pictures once I'm done of a few things I had to do.... like custom make a coil bracket, and the water temp sensor was completely different on the 2 harnesses.

 

any updates?

 

Anyone have a harness for doing this conversion they'd like to sell?
Conversely, can anyone verify that Ford # E5TZ-14289-D is the right part for this harness?

 

i recently bought m wiring harness for a DS 2 for 5 bucks afterwards i went and bought a new dizzy,module and a coil. i put it all in place on my 86 f150 300 and she fired right up sounds good my question is about a ballast resistor ive seen post on here saying i need one someone help i do not want to burn anything up if i do need one thanks

 

You need to measure the voltage at the coil positive, at idle. The voltage should be less than what the battery voltage is at idle.

The ballast wire is built into the wiring harness between the key switch and the connector on the left inner fender.

Let me know what you get.

Jim