Thanks Bis, rep given!

 

I was having the cold start problems as well, the FICM testing voltages were dropping to 20 and 25v. Would someone mind sending me the PDF version?If anyone is keeping track, I have a Jan 2004 build date with the four pin FICM.

 

http://www.bscustoms.net/diesel/FICM.pdf

This is a good copy...I have another i just have to find it. Hope this helps

 

Wow, the pdf looks great. Thanks, gonna go out and get started on it.

 

just an update I got my nerv back up and whent out and bought a small solder gun and did the resistors. one of them was loose. when i whent to reflow one side the risistor came off the board. and the one side was discolored. put back togather and retested and 48.7v all the time. Temps here are about 40f so i will have to see if the cold start problem is gone next week, but I feel good about it. There was definatly a problem with the ficm.

Thanks again for all the info on this problem. Saved me a grand or so!!!!!!!!!

 

I have just started to have a real bad cold start problem, but once its warmed up truck runs fine. When its cold, barely starts and then sounds like its running on 4 cylinders if i try to drive it slowly until it warms up.

I tested the voltage on FICM its 48v while stopped. Should i test it while running also?

Should i get in there and solder just to make sure? i am very proficient at soldering.

thanks guys.

 

update on voltage ficm testing. My voltages are solid, so this prob not the issue.

48 volts on engine off key on, cranking, and running. It varied from 48.0 to 47.9 volts.

 

You probably have a few sticky injectors. Mine did the same thing, then I developed a miss on two injectors, replaced them, and now it cold starts great. Bad injectors show up on cold starts before you start seeing problems in warm operation.

 

What weight/flavor of oil are you running??? Might have an effect on cold starts.

 

Mark,

Reading the TSB from our battery / cranking voltage discussion.

Notice one of the first thing that Ford checks is FICM memory corruption --- by reinstalling the software.

Are we throwing out a lot of FICMs unnecessarily by not doing that as well?

Should it be in the SOP of FICM repair to do an "on vehicle" reflash of FICM?

Indeed --- here is a question.

Every time you flash a vehicle --- is it automatic that the FICM is reflashed?

I am leaning to the conclusion that every time the vehicle is brought in for service, all boxes should be reflashed as SOP.

Reason: reflashing reloads the memory --- and if there are any weakening bits, it is overwritten / sent to a different area of memory.

 

Howdy, I have read the thread and have just started having the cold start (No Start) issue. I have checked the voltage on the FICM and it reads 48.5v when on, with the key cycle it drops to 12v, then back to 48.5, when trying to start it drops to 13-16v. I was wondering if this is normal or if the FICM is bad. I have tried to re-flow the caps to the board and it didn't effect anything. The stealer quoted $1,200 for a new FICM installed and said it may not fix the problem (possibly injectors.) So I brought it home and started reading. Any ideas?

 

I installed a Reman. FICM today and it cranked right over. The check engine light is on but I assume it needs to be flashed to the vehicle. I will have it looked at but saved about $400 by reading.

Thanks for the input!

 

Info-

These are the problems I encountered on my 05 6.0. These are in order within 3 month

1- Blowing white smoke when I first take off down the road engine cold

2- Hard to start if not plugged in.

3- Hard to start when plugged in.

4- Hard start, had to keep acelerator on to keep engine running, sounded like 3 cylinder operating only. Blowing tons of black smoke. When engine warmed up ran great, no smoke and would start again ok. Temp outside cold.

5- no start at all.


Here is what I did!
Replaced batteries, pulled Alt and starter to check at shop, Changed fuel filters. Still would not start.

Here is where it gets good! Found the FICM check. Intial buzz was 47vdc, starting dipped to 26vdc. I pulled the FICM, took it apart and reflowed the solder joints as described in the FICM repair. I can send if you need it. Note: I am not a pro at soldering, just reheated the listed solder joints. I was very skeptical if this would do anything because all of the solder joints looked good to me. Took about 3 hours to do this. Put FICM back in, checked buzz-48vdc, tried starting, fired right up, and voltage never dipped below 47vdc.

Truck has run great ever since, did not spend a fortune fixing. Shop would have cost me thousands!
Other day- outside temp was 10 and I forgot to plug in. Truck started right up. It has not run this good in a while and by the way- no more smoke at all (white or black).

Hope this helps!

 

so on my 03 i have had and done all of the same as above EXCEPT I still have a cold start problem it may be coincident but i have to "pump" the pedal, like you would for an old carbed gasser. and then she'll start, but blows white smoke for a second. im still confused on what is left to check. she will start cold if plugged in.

 

Are you loosing antifreeze or does it come out of the degas bottle?

What weight oil are you running.

Do you hear the buzz when you turn the key on?

Are you getting white smoke or black smoke when you start and idle?