Can someone give me a breakdown on whats required to change the IP?

The three bolts holding the gear to the IP are what size/style of socket?

The three bolts that hold the IP to the housing, do you require the special IP mounting wrench that is rudely priced, or can you get by with something else or a modded wrench?

Thanks in advance!

 

5/16 12point.........

Modded wrench will do...... I use an "old style 9/16-5/8" starter wrench, the curved one from Harbour frt or Princess auto. I ground the 9/16 end down to almost nothing then heated it to bend it to the correct offset...... really not requiring something too fancy.

 

I can do it with a regular cheapie 9/16. Its not that hard to replace you also need the 11/16(i think) for the lines on the injector end. It took me about 1 hour to take the ip of one truck, then of another truck, then back on the original one. also I think there are 2 1/2 bolts on the oil filler neck.

 

you will need a 5/16 socket for the little bolts in the pump head, and you need a 9/16 for the nuts that hold the pump to the housing, and 5/8 to remove the injector lines from the injectiors, unplug the throttle likage, take the main return line off the ip and set it asside and take the hard line comming from the fuel filter to the ip off, then just push the ip back twist and just wiggle it around and you will figure out how ir comes out,


Dont take the ip housing off! if you do that the job gets a hole lot harder

 

x2!!!!!


DON"T TAKE THE IP GEAR COVER OFF, EVER!!!!

 

Thank you all for the hints. The pump to housing I can't see getting off with a regular cheapy wrench, unless you ground the box end down, because it will not fit between the pump and the bolt head, maybe the cheaper the wrench the thinner the steel, lol.
I will grind one down and give it a go, heat and bend it if I have to. OTC has a nice curved wrench designed for this, but I ain't shelling out over $75 for a tool I will use once or twice.

You mention pulling the oil filler neck, is that required??

 

No need to take the oil filler neck/gear cover off.. if done incorrectly it can turn into a major job....

 

Yes you HAVE to poll the oil filler neck off and use a 5/16 socket to unbolt it from the gear. DO NOT remove the gear cover housing and pull the gear as it is timed and you open up a whole new can of worms.

 

The early 6.9 timing gear cover has an oil fill neck that is removable to access the three 5/16" twelve point bolt heads that hold the IP drive gear on the IP drive shaft.

On the 7.3 engines that IP drive gear cover is cast, so there is an access plate that covers the bolts.

Bolts for either are 1/2" if I remember right.

Injection lines are 5/8" on both ends.


9/16" wrench to remove the three IP mounting nuts on the back of the IP drive cover.
Can be done with a short open end wrench with a little finessing.

That is the order I would remove the bolts/nuts in.

Just don't pull the IP drive gear cover and pull everything together, that unmeshes the IP drive gear and the timing marks are not visible with the water pump and timing gear cover installed.

 

I'm in the process of trying to get my IDI 1994 injection pump mounting nuts off. Some of the responses don't make sense for my IP removal. I'm gunna have to modify a 9/16 wrench in order to get the lower nuts off. Thanks for ensuring me that's what has to be done. I took the d/s 9/16 mounting bolt for the housing out just to get an additional 1/2in of swing room, but that wasn't enough to get the nut off. Now, off to modify wrench!!

One Hour Later!

I went to the garage and collected all of my 9/16in & 14mm open end wrenches, had about 6 all together, to see which one I was to modify. I decided to give these lower nuts one more last try using all of the wrenches. AND, I'll be damned if the Craftsman 1/2in - 9/16 double open end wrench, about 7in. long did the trick. I alternated that Craftsman wrench with the 14mm wrench and was able to get the nut loose enough to take off with my fingers. Remember, I took out the timing gear housing bolt on the d/s to give me a little more swing room, replaced that sucker straight away.

Two more observations: 1) I was able to remove the 2 lower steel fuel tubes from the rear of the IP once I got the IP partially out; and 2) the 3 timing gear bolts on the front of the IP are 8mm, 12 point in size.

Thanks all, I hope this helps someone out.

 

Don't know why this isn't mentioned elsewhere, but that IP gear cover that everyone warns you not to remove is fastened to the block with 4 (four) stout bolts. The bolt heads of the two rear (short) ones are what make the lower IP nuts so difficult to access. Remove these bolts (one at a time if you are super paranoid) and it is pretty easy to get the lower IP nuts off with a regular wrench. Don't remove the front bolts(!) and do remember to put the back ones back in when you are finished... and fwiw I usually remove the 3 IP gear bolts with a 12 pt 8mm, seems to fit better than my English tools even though I know it shouldn't be metric...

 

Ha! You beat me to it on both suggestions!

 

I'm just plodding along, trying to get this "love affair" I have with this truck in order. I'm sure you know alot more about this than I do, I'm just reporting what I have found. I really appreciate this web site and the information it has provided to me, sooooooo, I just try to contribute as many others have.

Tomorrow I begin to clean up the area where the IP lives and clean up the many parts I've taken off. I need to find a source for the o-rings within the steel fuel lines. They look really small and I'm advised to replace them. Got any ideas?

 

O-rings within the steel fuel lines? Huh?

Also, my favorite tool for messing with these IPs are these: 12 Piece Stubby Combination Wrench Set I use them all the time. The fact that they are short really helps a lot, and I've abused these things without cracking any of em.

 

The olives