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As I posted in a previous question, I am thinking of upgrading my stock hitch to this one from Curt: Curt Class V Trailer Hitch Receiver 15514 : Trailer hitch bike rack and trailer hitches - etrailer.com I am wanting to do this as the TT we are going to buy in the spring is close to the rating on the stock hitch. Not over at all, but I figured if I can sell my stock hitch the upgrade would only cost me $50 or so. So, my question is, is the Curt really a heavier hitch? It looks identical to the stock one but may be a thicker gauge metal? Stock of course is rated at 600-6000 WC and 1250-12500 WD. The Curt is rated at 1500-15000 WC and 1600-16000 WD. Seems like a worthwhile upgrade for cheap money, but if Curt is just using a different way to calculate capacity or some nonsense like that, it's not worth it. I would hate to log on here a couple of months after the swap to find a post titled, "Ford to stop sourcing factory hitches from Curt..." LOL. Any guesses on the difference(s)?
And now I have someone calling me to buy my stock hitch. Hope I find the answer soon. Don't want to swap if it isn't worth it, but if it is, I don't want to loose my potential buyer.
I have a putnam hitch with very similar specs and appearance. I'm not positive if it's a physically heavier hitch and would be hard pressed to figure the difference. On other heavy pickups I've seen the higher rated hitches like this are indeed beefier.
But for me and the putnam, i found the power coating was crap, the gusset around the end of the hitch is weak. On a chevy truck, the hitch was not designed right and bent the frame and the hitch under nominal loads, where the known weak factory hitch was fine.
I replaced his hitch with a reese 18k hitch and the reese was huge by comparison.
If you look at other hitches made by reese (or any of the cequent hitch companies) they will be much beefier.
Example, and this hitch isn't even rated at 16,000lbs
SO, you're not thinking Curt is a good brand? I was considering a larger 2.5" 18k Reese, but the cost is almost double and my truck is not rated that high in GCWR. I was thinking the 16k Curt was the perfect match for my GCWR, but if it's basically the same as the Ford hitch, I don't want to waste the money or time. I'm still wondering if Ford underrates their hitch based on how much weight they want that far back on the truck.
Honestly it looks nearly identical to the factory hitch.
True, the Curt's ends are closed to prevent rust, but this reminds me of some of the advertisements Ford was using to describe frame strength. They compared the competition, which used construction much like the Curt hitch, to Ford's method of having the crossmembers protruding through both sides of the frame rails and being welded on both sides.
In this case, the Curt hitch is joined on one side of the plates that connect it to the frame, while the Ford design has the crosspiece going through those plates and welded on both sides. I think the Ford design is stronger in this regard.
Honestly I couldn't imagine a load anywhere near the capabilities of the truck that would be heavy enough to break the stock hitch. I'd hook 12.5K to mine without a care in the world.
Some of the ratings of the stock hitch are probably matched to the truck's too. Hanging 1500 lbs on the tongue may be a bit much when the stock wants 600? That is a function of the chassis more than the hitch (or both equally perhaps) I would think.
Honestly, there is no reason to change, it may be the same hitch for all we know with different ratings printed on it from Ford.
Good advice guys. Thanks. I'll keep what I have. I just thought for $50 it would be a cheap upgrade, but I guess there is no need to go through the trouble. I too thought the same thing about the ends of the tube going through the mounts. Seems stronger than just a weld to me as well. The trailer I'm after should stay under the 1250 on the tongue and def won't go above the 12.5 as a whole. I did call Curt and ask their tech what gave their hitch a higher rating than the one my truck came with. He told me the gauge of the metal used, but who knows.
I just looked on Curt's web site. The picture on etrailer is not accurate. This is how it's shown on Curt's site:
I wouldn't trade a stock hitch for that. First issue is with the cross member is butt welded to the hanger plate. The stock hitch cross member passes through the hanger plates, and is welded on both sides. Stock is stronger.
Secondly, to truely upgrade from the stock receiver, you want one with a 2-1/2" receiver tube so you can use the heavier draw bars. There is no point in changing to another 2" receiver, no matter who makes it.
The only one I would think about upgrading to would be the Ford factory hitch that came with the tow boss option on F350s. It's a Ford hitch that uses a 2.5" ball mount and comes with a 2" adapter.
The only one I would think about upgrading to would be the Ford factory hitch that came with the tow boss option on F350s. It's a Ford hitch that uses a 2.5" ball mount and comes with a 2" adapter.
I wonder if that would fit? Is the dually frame the same width as SRW trucks? I think it is, not sure.
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