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I thought the welds would be weaker. Then I looked at the Reese 2.5 18k Titan hitch which is rated higher than the stock 350 2.5 hitch. Same deal. The cross tube terminates at the side hangers. So, I guess that system of hitch design can't be that weak. Check it out. http://www.etrailer.com/pc-H~45297.h...eid=2009301027 18k hitch with 2500 tongue weight. No sense in upgrading to that though as it's built beyond the trucks capability. That's why I was looking at the Curt.
Class V – The XDR – Xtra Duty Receiver - the heaviest rated 2" receiver hitch in the industry. The XDR Series Class V receiver hitches can handle the BIG loads...up to 15,000 pounds with 16,000 pound weight distribution and tongue weights up to 1,600 pounds. The XDR is made for only the toughest SUV’s and pickup trucks on the market today.
•2" square receiver tube
•Up to 15,000# Weight Carrying MGTW
•Up to 16,000# Weight Distribution MGTW
•"No Drill" applications available
•Polyshield Finish
Class V – The XDR – Xtra Duty Receiver - the heaviest rated 2" receiver hitch in the industry. The XDR Series Class V receiver hitches can handle the BIG loads...up to 15,000 pounds with 16,000 pound weight distribution and tongue weights up to 1,600 pounds. The XDR is made for only the toughest SUV’s and pickup trucks on the market today.
•2" square receiver tube
•Up to 15,000# Weight Carrying MGTW
•Up to 16,000# Weight Distribution MGTW
•"No Drill" applications available
•Polyshield Finish
I have had Curt hitches on a couple vehicles and they are very good hitches. That being said I would not change the factory one on a Super Duty. It is also a very good heavy duty hitch.
PS: To clarify why I wanted to upgrade, the trailer we are ordering has a dry weight (useless, I know) of 7375 and dry hitch weight of 890 with a GVWR of 11050. I also tow an enclosed snowmobile trailer that I think loaded with our atv's or snowmobiles is over the 600# limit on my stock hitch for tongue in WC mode. I guess I may pass on the Curt and if I do upgrade go with the 18k Reese.
I think you will be fine with the stock hitch. I sent reps your way for taking the time and concern to be as safe as you can. I wish more RV'rs on the road would do that. Dang, I see a lot of unsafe rigs in the outdoors.
As far as the hitch goes, Curt brand is ok. I work at a RV dealership and we recommend Reese over Curt. Reese has a much more longer life span then the Curt brand.
I think you will be fine with the stock hitch. I sent reps your way for taking the time and concern to be as safe as you can. I wish more RV'rs on the road would do that. Dang, I see a lot of unsafe rigs in the outdoors.
Thanks man! You know, I figure it's better to have too much and not need it than to have everything maxed out or close to it.
As far as the hitch goes, Curt brand is ok. I work at a RV dealership and we recommend Reese over Curt. Reese has a much more longer life span then the Curt brand.
Interesting. Thanks for the info. It seems they have a coating under the powercoating which Curt doesn't. I also noticed that the shipping weight of any Reese compared to a Curt with the same specs is significantly less.
I think you will be better off not only keeping the factory hitch but using the WD equipment as required to be in the weight ratings. Upgrading the hitch and not using the WD setup would be a bad idea IMO.
I think you will be better off not only keeping the factory hitch but using the WD equipment as required to be in the weight ratings. Upgrading the hitch and not using the WD setup would be a bad idea IMO.
I always planned on using WD. I don't think you were following my post.
I removed my Ford factory hitch (it is for sale) and replaced it with the SuperHitch from TorkLift. Torklift's Original SuperHitch The reason I did it is because I need a 48" extension in order to pull my boat when the camper is on the truck. I also used TorkLift's extension. SuperTruss :: Hitch Extension from Torklift
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