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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Debating Options - what should I do?

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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 09:36 PM
  #16  
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way to be pro active !!
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 08:31 PM
  #17  
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Just wanted to provide an update. I spoke with Elite Diesel today and got an idea of what I'm in for if I decide to keep the truck. New headgaskets, studs, and EGR delete kit installed $4890. They also recommended an SCT tuner for an extra $500. Also, if the oil cooler is bad tack on another $300. All in all, I'm looking at somewhere between $5500-$6000 to fix it right. Ouch!
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 08:33 PM
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Cha ching ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 08:42 PM
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The 6.0 puke coolant when towing, dont ask me why but they just do, usually the dealer will put a sticker on the coolant resovoir displaying the new max and min, my 05 6.0 has this sticker on it, so it could simply just be that, or your heads are going bad, if the sticker isnt on the resovoir fill it up about an inch to and inch and half from the bottom, about half way to max on the resovoir.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 08:44 PM
  #20  
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the new fill level is the old low level
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 08:50 PM
  #21  
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Yeah i guess my new high is below the old low though, never had mine puke, i pull long dual axle trailers with house demo waste, and tractors, but i live in florida, and well its not very hilly, the only hills were i live are bridges.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 09:33 PM
  #22  
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if you can do the test, and can take the heads to a shop, and have a buddy who is inclined to help, you can probably spend the 2000 on parts and do it yourself. It just takes time and questions on this board and, well, save 3000 for a rainy day. IDK if I had to, be without a truck for a week or two, perhaps you can do it. Especially if you know a ford tech and he likes BEER.
If I had to thats what I would do to keep my baby.....
 
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 08:29 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Joe92F250
Just wanted to provide an update. I spoke with Elite Diesel today and got an idea of what I'm in for if I decide to keep the truck. New headgaskets, studs, and EGR delete kit installed $4890. They also recommended an SCT tuner for an extra $500. Also, if the oil cooler is bad tack on another $300. All in all, I'm looking at somewhere between $5500-$6000 to fix it right. Ouch!
Shop around, you can get the studs for $400, head gaskets for $200 and the oil cooler guts for around $200 off ebay. WHile they are doing studs they can very easliy either block off the stock EGR cooler by welding it shut which will delet it or you can get the RCD egr delete for $300. There should be almost no extra labor to install this since they will have it off anyway for the studs. add another $100 for oil, filter and coolant, and maybe another $100 for gaskets. SO you are at $1300 for parts, and add about 1500-2000 for labor and getting the heads decked. The SCT is a good idea and you can find that cheaper also. You really should be about $2800-3300 for everything if you buy your own parts first. Make sure you find someone that knows what they are doing but IMO $5000-6000 is too pricey
 
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 10:05 AM
  #24  
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Again, thanks for all the input. I wish it were only matter of the coolant level being too full. Unfortunately, the level is well below the min mark and it still pukes.

The last time I towed a trailer and it puked, I left the truck running. I removed the Degas cap and a lot of steam came out and the coolant in the reservoir appeared to be "boiling", but when I checked the coolant temp with a thermometer it was only 175F. Coolant shouldn't be boiling at 175F. I did a floating ball test and checked the coolant/water ratio and it seemd correct. Is the "boiling" due to the presence of the exhaust gas bubbles? Just curious.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 10:41 AM
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I say yes ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 04:18 PM
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I don't know about the boiling thing at 175°. Are you sure it wasn't just flowing coolant? There are two small hoses that continuously pour coolant into the bottle and out the bottom. It's not a dead end bottle like most cars.

Has nothing to do with your problem I guess, but boiling just doesn't seem likely.
 
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