BOOM! Part 3!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
The 38R would be a good choice. Mine works great with the 1.0 housing. If you want the 1.15 housing it will be non wastegated (about $320), plus you will need the adapter plate which is another $115. I don't have my wastgate hooked up with my turbo and hybrids. IMO, unless you are having an EGT problem, I would stay with the 1.0 with your setup.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
I'm surprised none of you guys secure your IC pipes to each other to prevent blow-offs. Let me dig up some pics to show what I'm talking about.
I can't find the pics showing the different options and such, but these will suffice for now:
This one has aluminum bar and bolt setup:
This one uses SS wire/cable and 2 bolts, a little bit lighter:
tie bars, a more expensive route:
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...665c67464296e0
I can't find the pics showing the different options and such, but these will suffice for now:
This one has aluminum bar and bolt setup:
This one uses SS wire/cable and 2 bolts, a little bit lighter:
tie bars, a more expensive route:
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...665c67464296e0
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Oil is comming from the turbo's shaft seals, and that's technically not engine related, it's an ancillary component.
Master of Strokes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,808
Likes: 25
From: CA
Dang Joe sounds like your truck just can't handle Hybrids. Tell you what I will send you my Stock turbo and my stock Injectors and you can just send back the Hybrids. I would hate to see you hurt your truck with the Hybrids 
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
I'm thinking 38r. Stock 1.0 housing for now, but I might put the 1.15 on it later. We'll see...... I don't have an outlet anymore for a stock turbo, so I guess I'll need to find one, correct? IIRC, the 38r doesn't have an outlet and you're supposed to use your own, right?
The "backplate" as you call it is the outlet adapter. The wastegate is in the exhaust housing, the EBPV is in the outlet adapter. Dang. And I just realized I put a screw in the nipple for the wastegate solenoid. And I don't have a wastegate actuator anymore either. hmmm... Maybe I'll go with the 1.15 right off the bat. Easier than trying to get all that crap, and hooking it back up.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Thanks Roland! I'll get something figured out. I knew I could use my current outlet adapter with the 1.15 housing, but wasn't for sure about how the 1.0 housing came. I guess I could use the 1.0 housing by strapping the WG closed...
Hook it, I'll pull it.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,037
Likes: 4
From: Grand Lake, La.
Dang Joe. I hope this is the last "Boom" thread from you. I have a complete stock turbo sitting on my shelf if you need to use it till you can get another. I guess it's a good thing Roland and I didn't make it to Beaumont, could have been a bad thing if it failed there.
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,274
Likes: 1
From: Milroy, PA
Joe, I added a picture of what gets rid of the blowing boot syndrome. You just add a few small beads of weld around the pipe like so, and you wont blow a boot again. I put cold galvanize coating on it thats why its silver. The pipes are aluminized steel, so you can just used regular mild steel mig. Then I would reccomend cold galve. Dont make too much of a weld, you just need something to help 1) grip 2) strengthen the area so it doesnt collapse. Reason your pipe is blowing now is because you more then likely slightly over tightened your pipe last time you had your pipe off. And while it held all the while, upon re-installation, its not enough anymore. Been down this road 
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 8
From: Hutchinson, KS
Sorry to hear about all this Joe. Sounds like these guys are getting you fixed up. You could always get a non-wg 1.0 housing for the 38R. That way you wouldn't have to mess with your wg stuff.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
I have been blowing a small amount of oil put the exhaust side of my 38r. It was leaking between the 1.15 turbine housing and the adaptor. Just enough to spit on the right uppipe and drip on the block behind the right cylinder head. It looks like I was having some CCV issues after changing the routing of my hoses. I have moved things back and cleaned it off a few times. I'm keeping a daily eye on it, but looks good so far.
Snowboard season cometh..
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 1
From: Gulf Coast of Florida
Joe - if you do go with a 38r I'm REALLY gonna be bugging you for info!!!
Good luck in getting this sorted quick brother!
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,174
Likes: 1
From: Millersburg, OR
It does when you get it from Clay...
We had an boot blow off on a buddies truck with a 38R, he had quite a bit of oil as well. He has the CCV done and shouldn't have seen any oil either. Well we put it together and it is still fine. The only thing we could think of is once the boot blew and the turbo shaft became unbalanced, lots of drive pressure and no boost, the seals got out of whack.. and let some oil by out of the turbo??? I know it is a longshot... but we still don't know where it came from...LOL
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,174
Likes: 1
From: Millersburg, OR
Joe, I added a picture of what gets rid of the blowing boot syndrome. You just add a few small beads of weld around the pipe like so, and you wont blow a boot again. I put cold galvanize coating on it thats why its silver. The pipes are aluminized steel, so you can just used regular mild steel mig. Then I would reccomend cold galve. Dont make too much of a weld, you just need something to help 1) grip 2) strengthen the area so it doesnt collapse. Reason your pipe is blowing now is because you more then likely slightly over tightened your pipe last time you had your pipe off. And while it held all the while, upon re-installation, its not enough anymore. Been down this road
That works great, another real easy way to prevent it from happening is by strapping it. Drill a hole on both sides of the boot, stick a bolt in there and strap it with something...
My buddies got his strapped now after his blew and dented in his hood....
but he is running a GT-42...