My 2004 6.0 has an intermittent cold no-start problem. The only way it will start is if I squirt diesel in the intake. Reading all the other posts, I suspect an LPO or HPOP problem. I unplugged the ICP and it would not start. I pulled the ICP and connected compressed air in the port and I could not hear any air leaks. I also removed the oil filter and the cannister starts to fill pretty quickly.

I am trying to get to the IPR to check it but, man its tough. I have removed the degas bottle and compressor inlet duct. I have removed the attaching bolts to the FICM but, am not sure how to disconnect it. I don't want to break any of the connectors. If I remove the FICM I'm stilll not sure how to get to the IPR. I think that I can feel a shield around the IPR, but I'm not sure how to remove it. Any help is appreciated, THANKS in advance.

 

This is how I did mine.Infomation is from another member

ICP SENSOR REPLACEMENT

I know there's info in the tech folder and I wanted to add my $.02 after reading that and changing my sensor out..

I had fluctuating idle and an occasional romp along with a P2285 code.. That's a really good indication that the ICP sensor is going bad.. I went and got the part from a local Ford dealer(part #3C3Z-9F838-EA)..

I decided to get it from the top.. I've been underneath the truck enough to know my arms just don't fit up there in the area I needed to get to..

I diconnected the negative battery cables and pulled the intake from the back of the filter to the hard tube off of the turbo.. Then I drained some coolant and pulled the degas bottle..









Next was the FICM.. Pulled the turbo inlet tube bracket, mounting nuts, and the connectors from the back of the FICM.. Then the four studs/bolts that hold the FICM bracket to the motor..Keep a telescopic retrieval magnet around, you'll need it..There's a ground from the FICM harness to the rear intake manifold stud..Disconnected that and the two rearmost DS injector clips to move a harness away.. Then I could see down into the hole where the ICP is located.. A long pick is really useful to disconnect the IPR and ICP connectors..Pull that harness out of the way once they're disconnected.. It sounds like a lot of disassembly, but this stuff comes off quick..












I cut down a 1 1/16" wrench to get the sensor loose.. I positioned it hanging over the rear turbo shield and used a couple of extensions to push up and break it loose from under the truck..Then it came out with the wrench, reaching around the back of the y-pipe, and finger tips in the hole.. Take the rear intake manifold stud out.. It really gets in the way..

Once it was out, I was able to slip a bit of 3/8" fuel line into the end of the new ICP sensor connector and push a 3/8 extension into that to get it threaded back in the HPOP cover..
















After I got the sensor tight, I plugged in the ICP and IPR connectors (pick is helpful here also).. My pigtail looked fine, so I cleaned it and let it go.. If I have to change that later, it's not that bad to get to.. The sensor was the worst part for me.. Everything else goes back together in reverse order..

A little fresh coolant to get the degas bottle to the right level and the truck started and idle was stable with no romps..

This isn't the easiest task to take on, but it isn't impossible from the top.. Find a soft pad and get used to laying on your motor..

 

rocky1074...great write up...were there pictures in this post? Could the moderator of this thread please ammend the Tech folder toi include this info? Thanks.

 

If you go to this link all the pictures are there


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7693493

 

He is looking for IPR removal.There is a special socket to remove it without removing anything else ie.turbo.I have read a post regarding the use of a cut off wrench to remove it,never had to remove one with the turbo on the truck so not sure how it works getting a wrench under there.The sleeve/sheild is to adjust the wiring away from the heat as the sensor swivels on the head.The FICM harness has locks on the top and bottom of the connectors that take a hard squeeze to unlock.

 

I know I broke one of the locks and you can't just buy a lock. They want to sell you a whole new harness.. So I just got a 24" zip tie and wrapped it around the plug and FICM. It worked out great..The socket for the IPR they want 194.00 for!!!

SPX Motorcraft - Detail: 303-1112 - Socket, Injector Pressure Regulator

 

I finally got down to the IPR. I went to TSC and bought a 1-3/8" wrench. I'm going to try and cut it down to fit in under the turbo. If that doesn't work, I'm going to make a crows foot by welding a 1/2' drive extension to the wrench. Man, its tight under there.

My pigtail going to the IPR looks like it has been pinched but, I'm reluctant to remove the heat shielding on the wires to see if they are okay. I'm not sure how I would get the heat shielding on the harness to stay if I cut it. I don't think taping would stay on it.

 

I have a link for one at around $70 if anyone is seriously wanting one.

 

For testing the IPR, when I get removed, I can apply 12 volts for a few seconds to the striped wire. Is the solid wire a ground or does it ground to the body of the IPR? The wiring diagram lists the solid wire as 'V power'.

 

That heat shield is it foil backed cloth?If it is pull it over the connector and off the harness.

 

Old thread I know, but figured I'd keep it together.

I have an IPR socket, and if I want to remove the IPR I just remove the harness, slide the special socket over it and unscrew to remove?

I have read about guys removing some nut and then sliding off a cover and then removing the solenoid??

All I need is the socket and unscrew it counterclockwise to remove, correct?
Thanks.

 

10-4, just screws right out. R/h (standard) threads. The heat shield on my harness was silver foil on one side and Velcro on the other side. Not a problem to get off or on.

 

Just disconnect the harness, remove the snap-on heat shield and unscrew it with the socket.
It looks like you may not have the snap-on shield though. You can clock the connector with the socket after you get the IPR tightened. It will help you get the harness reconnected.
Good Luck!

 

Thank you very much

(computer wouldn't let me post 'thanks' ... said it was too short. So hopefully above 100 characters will keep it happy )

 

I'm at the IPR today looking to remove it and I have the socket. The ONLY thing I have done is disconnect the harness ... I have NOT removed and outer part, or nut, or shield ... like I have read in other posts as it doesn't look like I have any of those items to remove. The plastic that the harness clips into does have some play but it doesn't turn. The outer part of the IPR I cannot move so I don't know if it is just being stubborn on mine and I'm supposed to be able to slide it off or something before I use the socket. I have tried pushing and pulling on it.

Right now I have the socket over the IPR, I have a wobble in the socket, I have an extension in the wobble, I have a ratchet on the extension. I just huffed and puffed on that thing like a m** f**r and I can't get it to budge. Have you guys used PB blaster or an impact gun to get it out? I don't want to break it.