Chasis surface rust
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 332
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From: NH
Chasis surface rust
I suspect it is normal, my 03 had a decent amount of surface rust on the frame, leaf springs, front/rear diff, etc... Well it bothered me so today I spent about 3 hours painting it ( Krylon black ). I first used a cordless drill with a wire wheel to knock off any loose paint/rust. No idea how long it will last or if it was worth the effort, but I feel better! 
I should have taken before and after pictures.
I should have taken before and after pictures.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,388
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From: Greensboro, NC
I did it too - I used Rust Converter before painting anything. I used a satin Rustoleum on the springs, and other parts - the frame I painted with truck bed liner. Looks great and will certainly help it last longer!
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 61
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From: Ft Lauderdale, Fl
skip the rusto, use the VHT brand from the auto stores. Self priming expoxy paint. Works great and looks factory.
From the site.
VHT EPOXY ALL WEATHER PAINT
VHT Epoxy Paint is a one-step epoxy coating, which does not require the use of a primer. It has been formulated to give the appearance and durability of a baked-on finish. It provides a porcelain-like finish that is chemical, corrosion, rust and salt resistant.
Temperature: 250°F (121°C)
Applications: Suspension, Kick Panels, Tools
Finish: Gloss and Satin
Dry Time: Dries to the touch in 30 mins. Dries thoroughly overnight. No curing required.
From the site.
VHT EPOXY ALL WEATHER PAINT
VHT Epoxy Paint is a one-step epoxy coating, which does not require the use of a primer. It has been formulated to give the appearance and durability of a baked-on finish. It provides a porcelain-like finish that is chemical, corrosion, rust and salt resistant.
Temperature: 250°F (121°C)
Applications: Suspension, Kick Panels, Tools
Finish: Gloss and Satin
Dry Time: Dries to the touch in 30 mins. Dries thoroughly overnight. No curing required.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Cool. How much prep work did you put into it? Did you use their cleaners, primers and top coat - or just the POR15?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 205
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From: New Jersey
I used Simple Green to clean off the underside with a pressure washer. Had a lot of loose stuff under there. Then I used their phosphate treatment, washed that off. Then used the POR15. The POR15 is some tough stuff. One you get it on, it's on period. I did use a hand wire brush to scrape any loose stuff I could reach. I found that where the steps are (were), that's where a lot of surface rust was starting. After removing them, I started from the middle of the truck and am working to the ends. The black goes on incredibly well. The gray which I'm using on the body goes on well but will need two coats IMO. The one thing that's cool is no brush marks. It smooths itself out.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 205
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From: New Jersey
I stopped a month ago and will be waiting till spring to finish off the job. The metal needs to be warm to apply properly. Plus it gives me a chance to see how the treated areas hold up.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 461
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good to hear. I will have to do that in the spring. most all of it is surface rust, but in the rear behind the wheels are those sections where the body comes down in there, starting to loose some of that material from the salt, ice and no mudflaps I'm sure. scraped both sides for a few hours once to get most of the loose stuff off before spraying it, but I think it needs more attention again. Spring perches were pretty messy too,
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 205
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From: New Jersey
Got a lot of the loose stuff that's for sure. Did more than I ever could doing it manually. Between that and the de-greaser, it left a real clean surface on most areas. Some areas are still rough like around and above the gas tank. I will be dropping the tank to get to all those areas. Nothing on my truck is REAL bad so I want to get it now before it gets worse.
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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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