rear yoke question for you guys. The tabs that hold the ujoint in place are worn from all the crap i just went through, mild vibration from looseness is going to probably get me back where i was real quick so how can i fix that for now? jbweld? machine ship weld a bead on it? Thanks,

 

Best fix, new yoke.

The problem with both of your options is getting the U joint centered.

If the U joint is not centered, vibration.

 

You think wrecker or new? It is the 10.25 rear. They as in anyone make them new? If I have the part ford quoted me about 150 to replace the pinion seal so no diff in price. Know of a good place to get them?

 

I have a drive line guy that gets parts like that direct.
Dealer for Timken and Dana/Spicer parts as well as lots of others.

He works on nothing but manaul transmissions, transfer cases and axles.
Big to small, he does them all.

Last one I replaced was 130 if I remember right.
Last thing I bought from a salvage yard was my 60.
I had almost 1000 dollars in fixing everything that was messed up or missing.

I did stock up on drive shafts while I was there.
And other than changing the U joints before I install them they have been working out fine.

Need to rememer to check stock on that item, I may only have one left and snow will be here soon.

 

I've recently (two weeks ago) gone through this issue with my '89 F250, needing a replacement yoke (companion flange), retaining nut and seal. I found the best price for these parts at the link shown below. I was quoted $72.13 for a new yoke; $9.83 for the nut and $4.73 for the seal. My truck has the 10.25 differential w/4.10 gears. I also found the U-joints on the drive shaft were in need of replacement and, I believe, were the culprits in wearing the other connecting parts out. I also replaced the Ubolts for the joints and the transmission output seal (E4OD). The Ujoints, bolts and seal I obtained from Autozone. I have no affiliation of any kind with any of these vendors.

https://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cat...ion_gears.html

 

So I was hearing a horrible noise on my 1999 F250 super duty 7.3. And it turns out same thing the rear u-joint was moving up and down close to a 16th of an inch. It was a combination of things including the insides of the straps and the housing that holds the u-joint both being worn down and the moving back-and-forth because the tabs were worn down.

I loosened it up push the U joint all the way over to one side and stuck in my feeler gauge to see how much play there was. Then I divided that by two and bought some shim stock that size. I cut some shims that laid down inside the yolk and left little tabs that I bent over at 90s that stuck up to go against those tabs I cut a V in them so they wouldn’t overlap. Then I bought a new set of straps. Got it as centered as possible and put it all together with Loctite. Noise completely gone no problems at all. Replacing the yoke on a 10.5 is brutal but it is absolutely the right way of fixing this. Here is an alternative.

 

When you shimmed yours, to get this right, you laid shims down into the yoke itself and bent the ends up in 90 degree angles so they would sit on the tabs? Did the shims have to become curved when you installed the U joint, and did that cause the straps to not want to set fully on the yoke? What do you mean by cutting a v so they didn't overlap. Thanks for the idea

 

My 10.25" in 1990 F350 DRW used a crush sleeve, so be prepared to deal with that.
Not liking the whole crush sleeve philosophy, when I replaced my yoke, I went with the solid spacer that uses shims. Allowed me get the bearing preload spot on with the nut nice and tight.