My orange one leaks, bought a blue one. How the heck to I install it? Please assume I am poor, ignorant and have decent tools.

I reviewed the threads on coolant flush and fill, and bought a coolant filter kit, I will be doing that at the same time.

 

Here are the instructions. If they do not make sense to you, then ask questions.

The updated "Oil Cooler to EGR Cooler" hose is blue. The hose can be taken off without removing much. Simplified, drain the coolant, remove the CAC intake tube, cut the EGR cooler hose in half at an angle, remove the 2 bolts on the EGR cooler supply port housing cover, remove the EGR cooler supply port housing, and then remove the part of the EGR cooler hose attached to the housing. Now, remove the other half of the hose. The full procedure for the removal and install is written below:

Removal:

Drain the engine coolant.

Loosen the clamps and remove the charge air cooler (CAC) intake pipe.

Cut the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose at an angle.

Remove the 2 bolts and the EGR cooler supply port housing cover.

Remove the EGR cooler supply port housing and the part of the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose that is still attached.

Twist and pull the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose to remove it from the EGR cooler tube.

Rotate the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose 90 degrees (1/4-turn) and remove it from the EGR cooler supply port housing.

Installation:

Clean and inspect the EGR cooler supply port housing O-ring seals.

Install new O-ring seals if necessary.

Lubricate the inside of the new oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose with clean engine coolant and slide it onto the EGR cooler tube far enough so it will not interfere with the installation of the EGR cooler supply port.

Make sure the dual index marks (flat edge) on the hose are facing up.

Lubricate the EGR cooler supply port housing O-ring seals with clean engine coolant and position the EGR cooler supply port on the engine.

NOTE: Use a commercially available Torx bit, such as Matco® BTX30B, or equivalent, and a torque adapter to tighten the EGR cooler supply port housing cover bolts.

Position the EGR cooler supply port housing cover and install the 2 bolts.

Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

Slide the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose onto the EGR cooler supply port housing and rotate it 90 degrees (1/4-turn) until it locks in place.

Install the CAC intake pipe and tighten the clamps.

Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).

Fill and bleed the engine cooling system.

 

Wish you had posted this 2 days ago Mark.. I just changed mine and it took a long time to figure out that those 2 marks on the hose have to be lined up with the line on the housing..lol. great instructions..

 

Thanks for the feedback flamebuster! Always a dollar short and a day late, lol

Some extra advice:
Take off the cac tube from the turbo to the intercooler. The outlet port for the egr cooler is right underneath the turbo outlet, and most of the small hose that connects it to the egr cooler tube is tucked underneath the turbo pedestal. It is hard to get a utility knife or any type of cutting blade to fit underneath the turbo pedestal to cut the hose, so you can use a hacksaw blade. One of the torx bolts is too close the turbo to allow T-30 socket to fit, even with a u joint, so you can use a T-30 hex bit wedged into a quarter inch ratcheting wrench. Make sure you secure the bit, because its a long way down into the valley. The port assembly can be a pita to get off, you may need the assistance of a small pry bar to free it. The port assembly is made out of aluminum so don't go torquing the heck out of it or you might break it or the riser pipe it rest on. The rest of the hose pulled right off the egr cooler nipple with a pair of pliers (easiest part of the whole job). To get the other end of the hose off the port assembly, turn the hose so the single index mark is faced up and pull straight off. Getting the hose end off the port assembly is a little tough and requires the used of a pair of pliers. Every post regarding this repair says to slide the new hose over the egr cooler nipple then install the port assembly and slide the hose over the port assembly... this may not work well. Getting the hose to slip on the port assembly may risking damage to the 2 inch radiator hose if you aren't careful. So you can install the hose on the port assembly first ( with the two index marks facing up in the locked position) then used a very small prybar to guide the hose onto the egr nipple and the port assembly should drop right in.
Spend the 9 bucks for new o-rings around port hub. It will most likely save you trouble later on.

 

It's funny how this repair always pops up this time of year. Seems like the o-rings in the egr hose don't like the cold...

 

Alright, I've been putting this repair off for about a year so I decided to pull out a six pack and git-er-done. I could not get a utility knife or any type of cutting blade to fit underneith the turbo pedestal to cut the hose, so i used hacksaw blade which worked fine. One of the torx bolts is too close the turbo to allow T-30 socket to fit, even with a u joint, so I used a T-30 hex bit wedged into a quarter inch ratcheting wrench. (Make sure you secure the bit, because its a long way down into the valley). The port assembly was a pita to get off, and popped free with the assistance of a small pry bar. The port assembly is made out of aluminum so don't go torquing the hell out of it or you might break it or the riser pipe it rest on. The rest of the hose pulled right off the egr cooler nipple with a pair of pliers (easiest part of the whole job). To get the other end of the hose off the port assembly, turn the hose so the single index mark is faced up and pull straight off. Getting the hose end off the port assembly was a little tough and required the used of a pair of pliers. Every post regarding this repair says to slide the new hose over the egr cooler nipple then install the port assembly and slide the hose over the port assembly...Yea right. This did not work for me. I could not get the hose to slip on to the port assembly without risking damage to the 30 dollar 2 inch radiator hose. So what I did was installed the hose on the port assembly first ( with the two index marks facing up in the locked position) then used a very small prybar to guide the hose onto the egr nipple and the port assembly dropped right in. I put everything back together, put in fresh coolant, and test drove. So far so good.

Just my 2 cents. Hope it helps. Thanks, Chris.

Oh yea, don't cheap out. Spend the 9 bucks for new o-rings around port hub. It will most likely save you trouble later on...

 

Nice post rosco - repped ya for it.

When the OP signs back on, he should have the help he needs.

 

Sounds like fun, how long did it take?

 

It is great to have members that go out of their way to post write-ups like this. Maybe I am old-fashioned, but they should get "repped" for it from the seasoned members (if you already have then thank-you) and "thanked" by the folks that need the information ...........

Chris - do you have part numbers for the hose and the o-rings?

 

I am guilty of taking all this great info for granted. Mechanically I am slow and nervous.

Thanks, and I would like to repay all the help, so if you ever have any construction related questions visit GreenBuildingTalk.com.

 

Sorry it took so long to reply. I work 12 hour shifts and dont always have time to get online. This was the first time I've done this repair, so it took me about five hours. I also took this opportunity to flush the cooling system out as well. I'll check to see if I still have the part numbers for those o rings tonight and get back to you. When I went to Ford they told me they didn't list a seperate part number for the inner o ring and wanted 85 bucks for the whole port assembly. I went to a different dealership and they were able to pull it up. I'm not sure if they didn't know what they were doing or if they were trying to screw me, but the blown up view didn't give a real good breakdown of the parts. Sorry about the lack of photos, but once I get myself immersed in a project I tend to forget things like that. Have fun, Chris.

 

I can't get the thermostat housing or the top rad hose off. a fuel line prevents socket from getting on it. I can't get a pliers on the clamp to remove it, complicated by the banks inter-cooler tube.

Is there a trick to getting the thermostat off?

 

bkvanbek - I'm not sure what hose you're trying to replace but I didn't have to remove the thermostat housing or upper radiator hose. Do you have pictures to help us out a little bit??? I forgot to add that you also have to take off the cac tube from the turbo to the intercooler. The outlet port for the egr cooler is right underneath the turbo outlet, and most of the small hose that connects it to the egr cooler tube is tucked underneath the turbo pedestal. I said that I used a small prybar to get the port assembly loose. I added above that its made of aluminum and to be careful not torque the hell out of it. I can't even imagine how fubared it would be if you broke off the riser that it rest on. Dammit I wish I lived in MN so could come over and give you a hand! Here is a link to a picture of the hose http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...ig/cat//sort/1 I didn't have the wiring harness over mine so that might make things a little harder for you if you do...

bismic - The part numbers for the egr cooler hose replacement are,

Coolant hose for egr cooler - 4C4Z-8592-AA

Inner O-ring for outlet port - 3C3Z-9N693-FA

Outer O-ring for outlet port - 3C3Z-9N693-EA

 

Thank you Chris!

 

Rosco,
I am flushing and installing the dieselsite coolant filter kit at the same time. And I heard it it quicker to flush with thermostat out. But that was a PITA too, one of the studs for the thermostat is under a fuel line, so I removed the radiator hose to get to it. But then the stud hit the fuel line on the way out. I cut off excess stud so I could get it back in. It looks like this project will get into day 2.

Thanks for your instructions on the hose replacement, it helped a lot. I tried putting the hose on the nipple first, yea right, there was no way. So I put it on the way you did, much easier. But you said "with the two index marks facing up in the locked position" isn't it one index mark equals locked.