not much power
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 67
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not much power
Hey I think my timing is of I just had dual 3" exhaust put in with no mufflers one coming from each side and when I eccelerate and it makes the slapping noise one side takes about 2 seconds longer before it kicks in and I do not think I have full power it feels like I only have one side of my engine and I've been fighting it as far as not starting good it takes a lot of cranking to get it started but it runs pretty good. how much power should I have? it's just a stock 89 7.3 with a 5 speed it has been this way since I bought it 6 months ago.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 13
As far as the exaust tone being off like youre sayin, mine is that way too. If its true dual its because theyre not both exactly the same length. Other than that, im afraid i cant help ya, ive noticed on these idi's some will run liked raped apes and others are kinda dogs but they all run good.
New User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte North Cacalaci
Possibly loss of backpressure? N/A motors need some backpressure to make top HP. A good muffler will give you more hp and mpg. I personally think a nicely tuned corked system sounds smooth and aggressive and is still plenty loud compared to a VERY loud, popping and barking un corked exhaust (except turbo'd motors, they all are exempted 
) But thats just my .02s
) But thats just my .02s
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
If the engine mileage is not excessive and you have clean filters (air and fuel) about the only thing left is timing and the condition of the fuel injection system.
For the best performance and MPG's, injectors and IP's should be replaced about every 100,000 miles.
Yes it will still run and does decent, but the injectors may be slobbering and the pop pressures are probably off.
The internal IP parts are wearing constanty, so time to build pressure is increasing and how much pressure it is building is decreasing.
When you stop and think using my truck as an example, 2300 RPM is 60 MPH in round numbers.
So the IP is rotating 1150 times per minute or mile.
Injectors are firing 2300 times per minute or mile.
So to do 100,000 miles all in high gear at 60 MPH the IP is making 115,000,000 revolutions and the injectors are firing 115,000,000 times each.
Add in warm up time and time spent in lower gears you could easily double or triple both of those numbers.
For the best performance and MPG's, injectors and IP's should be replaced about every 100,000 miles.
Yes it will still run and does decent, but the injectors may be slobbering and the pop pressures are probably off.
The internal IP parts are wearing constanty, so time to build pressure is increasing and how much pressure it is building is decreasing.
When you stop and think using my truck as an example, 2300 RPM is 60 MPH in round numbers.
So the IP is rotating 1150 times per minute or mile.
Injectors are firing 2300 times per minute or mile.
So to do 100,000 miles all in high gear at 60 MPH the IP is making 115,000,000 revolutions and the injectors are firing 115,000,000 times each.
Add in warm up time and time spent in lower gears you could easily double or triple both of those numbers.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 255
Likes: 1
If the engine mileage is not excessive and you have clean filters (air and fuel) about the only thing left is timing and the condition of the fuel injection system.
For the best performance and MPG's, injectors and IP's should be replaced about every 100,000 miles.
Yes it will still run and does decent, but the injectors may be slobbering and the pop pressures are probably off.
The internal IP parts are wearing constanty, so time to build pressure is increasing and how much pressure it is building is decreasing.
When you stop and think using my truck as an example, 2300 RPM is 60 MPH in round numbers.
So the IP is rotating 1150 times per minute or mile.
Injectors are firing 2300 times per minute or mile.
So to do 100,000 miles all in high gear at 60 MPH the IP is making 115,000,000 revolutions and the injectors are firing 115,000,000 times each.
Add in warm up time and time spent in lower gears you could easily double or triple both of those numbers.
For the best performance and MPG's, injectors and IP's should be replaced about every 100,000 miles.
Yes it will still run and does decent, but the injectors may be slobbering and the pop pressures are probably off.
The internal IP parts are wearing constanty, so time to build pressure is increasing and how much pressure it is building is decreasing.
When you stop and think using my truck as an example, 2300 RPM is 60 MPH in round numbers.
So the IP is rotating 1150 times per minute or mile.
Injectors are firing 2300 times per minute or mile.
So to do 100,000 miles all in high gear at 60 MPH the IP is making 115,000,000 revolutions and the injectors are firing 115,000,000 times each.
Add in warm up time and time spent in lower gears you could easily double or triple both of those numbers.
Hmmm....now you got me thinking. The mpg's have gone down some and I really haven't noticed any power loss although I'm not hard on the pedal. Pulled the leaking injector pump and had it rebuilt at around 100K and never have done anything with the injector's and I'm just under 330K now. Maybe it's time for some preemptive action here. If so what would you recommend for injector's and should the IP be rebuilt or replaced? Thanks for the input. BTW until I can get my sig.....94 F350 7.3L turbo E4OD 4X4.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
You should be able to have a signature now with 29 posts.
G code injectors were stock on the 7.3 turbo motor.
Stanadyne injectors are getting harder to find, but Delphi's are rather common and I have not read any bad reports on them in here.
With the small or non existant price difference between new and rebuilt, get new injectors.
Just looked at Diesel performance parts and accessories. Diesel injectors, pumps, filters, kits, additive, gauges and apparel.
Looks like they have new Stanadyne code G for 32 dollars each and rebuilt injection pumps for the turbo motor for 555.76 each.
Something else to consider on the MPG thing.
Most of the northern states should have blended fuel now, and that will drop the MPG slightly below straight #2 MPG's.
I had to edit my previous post, 115,000,000 times for the injector firing.
Still a lot of cycles for a man made part that precise.
G code injectors were stock on the 7.3 turbo motor.
Stanadyne injectors are getting harder to find, but Delphi's are rather common and I have not read any bad reports on them in here.
With the small or non existant price difference between new and rebuilt, get new injectors.
Just looked at Diesel performance parts and accessories. Diesel injectors, pumps, filters, kits, additive, gauges and apparel.
Looks like they have new Stanadyne code G for 32 dollars each and rebuilt injection pumps for the turbo motor for 555.76 each.
Something else to consider on the MPG thing.
Most of the northern states should have blended fuel now, and that will drop the MPG slightly below straight #2 MPG's.
I had to edit my previous post, 115,000,000 times for the injector firing.
Still a lot of cycles for a man made part that precise.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 255
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Yes always take a hit in the winter, noticeable improvement though keeping that grille covered. Looks like the rebuilt pump and new injectors will run about $865, or about 8 loads of fuel. Just rationalizing......
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
It will take longer to pay for it's self, but if you drive much I am going to bet you will see a return on your investment in under a year.
Then also looking at your avitar, looks like a slight lift and taller wider tires.
Unless it was just like that when you bought it, you have increased the frontal area, added rolling resistance and induced a speedo error that is also affecting your MPG figures.
As we make out trucks more able to do our jobs and be what we want them to be, there is a price you have to pay that is hidden.
That price is MPG.
When you look at modified vehicles from a MPG point of view, the only ones that make sense are the low riders and tuner cars.
Slammed down on the ground with skinny tires like the low riders.
Down close to the ground with ground effects and spoilers everywhere like the tuner cars even though they generally run wider tires.
A two wheel drive that stays on the highway could run some of the tuner tricks and low rider tricks and get better MPG.
But all of that is out the window for the off road 4x4 crowd.
Then also looking at your avitar, looks like a slight lift and taller wider tires.
Unless it was just like that when you bought it, you have increased the frontal area, added rolling resistance and induced a speedo error that is also affecting your MPG figures.
As we make out trucks more able to do our jobs and be what we want them to be, there is a price you have to pay that is hidden.
That price is MPG.
When you look at modified vehicles from a MPG point of view, the only ones that make sense are the low riders and tuner cars.
Slammed down on the ground with skinny tires like the low riders.
Down close to the ground with ground effects and spoilers everywhere like the tuner cars even though they generally run wider tires.
A two wheel drive that stays on the highway could run some of the tuner tricks and low rider tricks and get better MPG.
But all of that is out the window for the off road 4x4 crowd.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 255
Likes: 1
It will take longer to pay for it's self, but if you drive much I am going to bet you will see a return on your investment in under a year.
Then also looking at your avitar, looks like a slight lift and taller wider tires.
Unless it was just like that when you bought it, you have increased the frontal area, added rolling resistance and induced a speedo error that is also affecting your MPG figures.
As we make out trucks more able to do our jobs and be what we want them to be, there is a price you have to pay that is hidden.
That price is MPG.
When you look at modified vehicles from a MPG point of view, the only ones that make sense are the low riders and tuner cars.
Slammed down on the ground with skinny tires like the low riders.
Down close to the ground with ground effects and spoilers everywhere like the tuner cars even though they generally run wider tires.
A two wheel drive that stays on the highway could run some of the tuner tricks and low rider tricks and get better MPG.
But all of that is out the window for the off road 4x4 crowd.
Then also looking at your avitar, looks like a slight lift and taller wider tires.
Unless it was just like that when you bought it, you have increased the frontal area, added rolling resistance and induced a speedo error that is also affecting your MPG figures.
As we make out trucks more able to do our jobs and be what we want them to be, there is a price you have to pay that is hidden.
That price is MPG.
When you look at modified vehicles from a MPG point of view, the only ones that make sense are the low riders and tuner cars.
Slammed down on the ground with skinny tires like the low riders.
Down close to the ground with ground effects and spoilers everywhere like the tuner cars even though they generally run wider tires.
A two wheel drive that stays on the highway could run some of the tuner tricks and low rider tricks and get better MPG.
But all of that is out the window for the off road 4x4 crowd.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Going from 31" tires to 35" tires should have made a difference of 7.7 MPH at 60 MPH.
Stock most speedo's I have checked were fast by a couple MPH.
So that makes the true error less than what it should be.
So originally your odometer was showing you traveled farther than you did.
Now it is showing you traveled less than you do.
MPG is reflecting that error.
My truck always showed I was going faster than I actually was with 31" tires (235/85-16) and switching to 33" (285/75-16) tires put it dead on.
Stock most speedo's I have checked were fast by a couple MPH.
So that makes the true error less than what it should be.
So originally your odometer was showing you traveled farther than you did.
Now it is showing you traveled less than you do.
MPG is reflecting that error.
My truck always showed I was going faster than I actually was with 31" tires (235/85-16) and switching to 33" (285/75-16) tires put it dead on.