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So in addition to the rear diff cover that was porus and weeping oil (which was easy enough to replace) the oil pan is leaking oil, apparently due to rust. This seems very wrong. Fuel filler neck has also disintegrated and leaks. Not very happy with the truck at this point.
Tried searching and got some info, but is pulling the motor the only way to replace the oil pan? Who the hell is responsible for engineering that! Seems like it will be well over a grand to replace the oil pan??!! I think its too far gone to try epoxy or the like.
I have read that some have lifted the motor up enough to get the oil pan off but it is a PITA to get all the silicone off clean and get the new one on and feel good about it.....Most here pull the motor.
I read on here where someone cut the cross member then welded it back together, but he said he was headed on a trip in like 2 days and couldn't wait to change it the regular way. If you cut it with a sawzall and were a good welder or had it welded by a good welder, I don't see this compromising the strength of it any. Be a lot cheaper.
To do it right, the motor needs to come out. Main reason is to turn the motor upside down to seal the new oil pan on properly. But others have been successful in replacing it in the truck. There is a custom oil pan that is in two pieces that somebody makes.. kinda cool. But if I were to do it, I would just pull the motor...
On my 2002 F350, I have noticed a few areas of concern on my oil pan. Hopefully, I have delt with the rust issue? It seems like Ford should have to deal with this issue as it seems to be a common issue with our trucks. A recall would be great, but we know that won't happen. In order to restore trust with consumers that would be the right thing to do.
I guess if I am ever stuck with replacing my oil pan, I would ensure the oil pan is sprayed with a good undercoating so this wouldn't happen again.
I think the way a few people have done it is to cut out steel tabs and drill and bolt before cutting, let me explain. Cut 2 steel tabs long enough to bridge the area to be cut. Drill and bolt the tabs in on both sides of the weld area so when you go to reinstall the cut cross member everything lines up and is held in by the tabs. The steel plates ensure everything is lined up and back to spec. It's been said that the brace is not load bearing cause the engine is braced up near the rails. I've yet to do this but plan on doing it in the next couple months, I'm just regurgitating what I've read on here, hope it helps.
It would be nice if they did a recall. Seems like its just a result of using crappy steel to begin with. Sure I used the truck to go to VT and they salt the roads here on Long Island, but come on. Just another reason I wont be getting another ford. FWIW, I will ask my mechanic about cutting out that brace and welding tabs on it so it can be bolted back in place. But if he's not comfortable with it I guess I just have to bite the bullet.
Anyone wanna buy an 01 F250 crew cab xlt with 130k on it?
I would at least give something like POR15 a shot. The starter kit is only about $25 + shipping. You could also use the POR Patch, which is like the paint but thicker and comes in a tube. I spread this across the most rusted area of the pan which was were the two spots it was weeping from on my pan. Then I did a couple of coats of the POR15. Its been a month and so far so good. Just make sure you completely drain the oil pan and prep really well. If there is any oil it will not adhere correctly. Just really follow the directions. Good luck and give it a shot it might be worth it. I would exhaust all options before dropping $1500 on a new pan.
This article supersedes TSB 03-21-46 to update the affected engines and vehicle model years.
ISSUE:
Some vehicles equipped with the 7.3L or 6.0L Diesel Engine may exhibit engine oil pan corrosion when operated in high salt content/corrosive environments. If the customer is concerned with this cosmetic issue, the following procedure may be used to resolve the condition.
ACTION:
Inspect the oil pan. If corrosion is detected use Motorcraft High Temp Anti-Corrosion Coating, Part Number PM-13-A, to service. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Clean the oil pan off with a solvent to remove any dirt and oil. Using a 3" angle grinder with a 36 grit disc, grind off all loose corrosion. Blow off with air. Wash the pan with soap and water and let dry. Brush the anti-corrosion coating on the oil pan. Allow coating to dry fully before operating the vehicle.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
PM-13-A Motorcraft High Temp Anti-Corrosion Coating
WARRANTY STATUS:
Information Only - Not Warrantable
I did in fact buy the PM-13-A from Ford, had to go to three dealers before I found a can in stock. I followed the service procedures as outlined last year. I brushed on (2) coats of the product, still have about 3/4 of the can left it goes a long way. So far so good. Like I stated earlier, Ford knew about this issue, they should either be made to take care of the TSB, not the customer. In fact, Ford needs to rethink thier metal work procedures on thier trucks. This year my 2002 F350 showed the rust/paint bubble problem around the L/R fender. Had it repaired at a body shop wasn't cheap, the entire fender skin and fender related items had to be replaced and painted about $3000. Ford said it was not thier fault and took no responsibility not surprised. Now, I notice my lower driver side door is starting to rust from the inside, outside is showing the rust and paint bubbling. I really like the truck alot, but Ford needs to address these issues with customers, I am not the only owner who has complained about these issues.