BW 1356 Xfer case issues
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
BW 1356 Xfer case issues
Fellas,
Here we are again!!! My 1356 transfer case wont stay in gear when i am coasting but when i am going uphill it is just fine. I have read that the forks wear out and can cause this but i am very unclear as to what to expect. State side i can get this sucker rebuilt at aamco for 400 flat. that includes bearings, seals, forks, etc etc. Thoughts fellas? Good places in victoria? Ford might just be too darn pricey for this!
Here we are again!!! My 1356 transfer case wont stay in gear when i am coasting but when i am going uphill it is just fine. I have read that the forks wear out and can cause this but i am very unclear as to what to expect. State side i can get this sucker rebuilt at aamco for 400 flat. that includes bearings, seals, forks, etc etc. Thoughts fellas? Good places in victoria? Ford might just be too darn pricey for this!
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
It is definitely shifting related. When i come up to go over the crest of a hill and let off the gas a bit it will sometimes kick right out of gear on the transfer case. The transmission is perfect and shifts better than my minivan, the engine is loud as all get out( haha its a 7.3) and now leaks no oil thanks to a new front crankshaft seal. damn this thing i swear. why now, aaahhh. I guess out of all that could blow up, it is the cheapest. 
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
Have you checked the linkage under the truck yet? There is an external adjustment on the lever. If its out of adjustment, you could be able to just get it in 2 High, but not very well. Letting off the throttle caused a torque pull on the drive train that might pop it back out again.
I'm pulling a head scratcher here because mine has 2 high, then 4 high, THEN 4 low, so even if it pops out of 2 high, it still has to got through 4 high before it can reach neutral. Will it do this in 4 high or 4 low too?
Joe is right though, the parts of the transfer cases are really simple and frankly, there aren't that many in there.
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I'm pulling a head scratcher here because mine has 2 high, then 4 high, THEN 4 low, so even if it pops out of 2 high, it still has to got through 4 high before it can reach neutral. Will it do this in 4 high or 4 low too?
Joe is right though, the parts of the transfer cases are really simple and frankly, there aren't that many in there.
Google Image Result for http://www.drivetrain.com/images/stories/product_imgs_large/bw1356p1_large.jpg
Senior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 387
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From: Bald Knob AR
Are all the mount rubbers in decent shape? If not and the motor, tranny and tcase are flopping around when going from accel to decel it could pull it out of gear. Usually when a gear box pops outta gear when coasting it means worn bearings. Just some thoughts.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: western SD
It wouldn't hurt to check with Ford for a rebuilt case. A few years ago the case went out of my son's truck, and the Ford dealer here in town was the cheapest place to get a rebuilt. We live near a small town, and the nearest place that rebuilds trannys and cases is 80 miles away, and the rebuilt case from Ford was just as cheap as getting his case rebuilt.
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
I will check into the ford dealer. As to the rubber mounts, you mean the ones on the trans that bolt to the cross member? I suppose they may have come loose. They may have jacked that up at the dealer like they did when they told me the trans was shot. All i had to do was move the vacuum regulator 1/4" and it was smooth as silk. Still is and not shot. Every dog has its day i guess.
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Postmaster
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
Well so here is the latest. Ford said they could get in a lightly used one for only 350 and they would inspect and warranty for 12 months free of charge. Install is two hrs labor so another 200. All in all not too bad since the guys at the yards are saying 400-600 for some ****ty ones with average of 100K on them. After talking to the ford 7.3 guru though, i learned that the symptoms are dead on for needing an adjustment. He doesnt think it is "grenaded" since it is fine in gear, just has some issues staying in. So he said to check the mounts, all bolts, and then adjust the shift linkage. He wants me to try that first as it is free for me to tinker. Problem is that i have no idea how to adjust. Need some help there!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
Set parking brake, block the wheels and remove the battery grounds.
Get under the truck with some good light.
Clean off the dirt, sand, grease, blood and guts from around the shift lever bracket. (wire brush or whisk broom)
Locate the bolts that hold the steel bracket to the side of the transfer case.
Now, verifying that the truck is secured so it can't move in any direction or be started, Loosen all the bolts but do not remove them. Leave one or 2 of them finger tight.
Move the lever all the way to the forward most position (2H), and then all the way to the rear most position(4L).
Make sure that you can easily reach all of the gears and that it latches properly in every position. If there is any visible slack in either direction, try to make sure that slack is even for both limits of travel. In other words, there should be the same slack to the stopper from 2H as to the other end stopper from 4L.
Tighten the bolts and road test the results.
Also, test in 2H, 4H, and 4L to make sure its not isolated to any one position. If hubs are manual, leave them off. If they are automatic, only test this in a strait line for as short a distance as possible.
Get under the truck with some good light.
Clean off the dirt, sand, grease, blood and guts from around the shift lever bracket. (wire brush or whisk broom)
Locate the bolts that hold the steel bracket to the side of the transfer case.
Now, verifying that the truck is secured so it can't move in any direction or be started, Loosen all the bolts but do not remove them. Leave one or 2 of them finger tight.
Move the lever all the way to the forward most position (2H), and then all the way to the rear most position(4L).
Make sure that you can easily reach all of the gears and that it latches properly in every position. If there is any visible slack in either direction, try to make sure that slack is even for both limits of travel. In other words, there should be the same slack to the stopper from 2H as to the other end stopper from 4L.
Tighten the bolts and road test the results.
Also, test in 2H, 4H, and 4L to make sure its not isolated to any one position. If hubs are manual, leave them off. If they are automatic, only test this in a strait line for as short a distance as possible.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
Well here we go, today my truck is called the m'er f'er haha. The transmission mount is shot and I am missing a mounting bolt!!!! WTF over? Lordco has what I need but do you think a jy will to? How can I remove the mount with out the whole thing falling down???
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
So it is okay to lift it from the pan? That would make life easy. That and I can't find the plate to adjust the shift pattern. It looks like it is solid cast metal where the pics show it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Just use a piece large enough to distribitute the weight out to the edges of the pan.
I have run across the same problems when the mounts let everything move enough to let the shifter and or linkake bind with the shifter hole and kick it out of gear.
I have run across the same problems when the mounts let everything move enough to let the shifter and or linkake bind with the shifter hole and kick it out of gear.