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the one i got only draws about 2 amps.so i just borrowed the hot from the fuel selector valve,as this is the location you want.since it uses such low amps,i didnt worry about a relay or devoted fuse.it might not be the best,but highly doubt il ever have a problem.
Should have used an Add-A-Fuse thing in the fuse panel under the dash, tap into the tank selector valve with it - pull fuse from fuse panel and insert it into the Add-A-Fuse thing, insert another fuse into the Add-A-Fuse thing for the fuel pump circuit, then insert the Add-A-Fuse thing into the fuse panel in place of the original fuse. Watch out how you position it in the fuse panel tho, as depending on which way you plug it in if the fuse for the original (TSV) circuit blows that may disable your add-on circuit as well - when you pull the original fuse first do some probing in the fuse panel with a voltmeter and locate which of the two sockets is the power supply for the fuse, then plug the Add-A-Fuse thing in accordingly.
Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
what i did was run new rubber fuel hose.i removed the lift pump to fuel filter metal line,and screwed in a hose fitting.just pull that metal elbow out of the fuel filter,and tell the auto parts place you want a fitting with those threads to fit 5/16 hose.worked perfect!
3/8" is the factory fuel supply line that runs from the lift pump to the filter head, 5/16" is from the filter down to the IP.
Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
(im open to suggestions with good reasons to add a devoted relay/fuse and or perhaps devoted hot feed guys if you think this is not ok.but 2 amp avg draw lol.perhaps 3-4 startup amps at most then?)
When I finally get around to doing this in my truck, I plan on disconnecting the FSS from the factory harness, and splicing it together with the e-pump, then feeding these through a relay off the battery directly, switch for relay will get battery power too - this way should I ever lose power in the cab (kills the fuse panel and everything that runs off and through it) I can still run the engine and make it home - trans will be in limp mode at that time, yes, but I still get 2nd and OD, and my auxiliary headlights are already running on separate circuits, same with the CB Paranoid - not really, I just don't trust Ford when it comes to wiring... Oh yah, having the stand-alone switch also makes a great anti-theft device
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
Have you used both tanks with it wired this way?
The two power wires to the fuel tank selector valve run down from the tank selector switch in the dash.
To change tanks, the positive and negative reverse.
I don't have the wire colors in front of me, but as an example with random colors let's say the front tank is selected and the positive wire is yellow and the negative wire is blue.
When you switch to the rear tank, yellow become the negative wire and blue becomes the positive wire.
If you tap for power in the fuse panel, and not the TSV itself, this will not be a concern, as the polarity switch happens downstream of the fuse panel. I use the TSV circuit in the fuse panel to power something in my truck, tho I forgot what I'm powering through there, I think it was the manual high-idle, but I got too many electrical doodats, lol
Paranoid - not really, I just don't trust Ford when it comes to wiring... Oh yah, having the stand-alone switch also makes a great anti-theft device 
