Battery goes dead. Need help
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Freshman User
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Battery goes dead. Need help
Okay so I have a 1978 f100 with a 302 that doesn't have a mechanical fuel pump so j have to run an electric one. I have gone through abiut 5 of the elec inline ones. About 80 dollars a piece. They just stop pulling fuel. So what I did is I went out and bought a nice high pressure Holley with pressure regulator. Ever since I installed it my battery has been going dead. I have an all new charging system from top to bottom. Yet my battery still goes dead. The wiring to the pump is the same as it's always been. Any tips? I feel like the pump is pulling to much power
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
First a question... the previous five electric fuel pumps, where were they mounted?
Second, describe how the fuel pump is wired. Please be detailed.
What is the Holley's amperage draw? A part number would be helpful. High pressure? Are you running a dead head or a return-style system?
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Second, describe how the fuel pump is wired. Please be detailed.
What is the Holley's amperage draw? A part number would be helpful. High pressure? Are you running a dead head or a return-style system?
.
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Freshman User
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Well they were mounted in the back right by the tank. Like the mr gasket off the shelf kind. And then I upgraded to a precision inline kind. And the Holley I'm not sure amperage and I'll have to get you a number later when it's on hand. But right now it is wired with the ground wire with a wire eye to the frame. The unit itself is grounded to the frame as well as a wire. And the power wire is ran to a fuse on the fuse block under the dash. To where in the on position it is running but in the backwards or accessory position it is not.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Well they were mounted in the back right by the tank. Like the mr gasket off the shelf kind. And then I upgraded to a precision inline kind. And the Holley I'm not sure amperage and I'll have to get you a number later when it's on hand. But right now it is wired with the ground wire with a wire eye to the frame. The unit itself is grounded to the frame as well as a wire. And the power wire is ran to a fuse on the fuse block under the dash. To where in the on position it is running but in the backwards or accessory position it is not.
Oh, what do you mean by "high pressure" pump? What pressures are we talking about? Carbs typically like between 5 and 7 PSI.
I highly recommend wiring the fuel pump through a 30A relay (protected with a fuse) so the draw does not go through the fuse box. Trigger the relay with a ignition hot signal. You might also consider installing a cut-off switch for safety.
Even though the charging system is new, what is the voltage measurement across the battery terminals while the engine is running and the alternator spinning? I have experienced bad new parts as others have.... Above 14 VDC would be great. What do you have?
How old is the battery?? Have you had it load tested?
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Freshman User
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I mean high pressure as in pushing 14+ psi. That's as high as my gauge goes and I have it regulated down to 7psi. And could you shoot me a wiring diagram? I'm completely a moron when it comes to electrical. And he battery is about 2 weeks old and it's the top battery O'reilley sells.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: like subarctic, brrr man!
Not sure if this is the cause, but will help nonetheless.
Add a ground strap or cable from the engine block (where the battery ground cable goes) to the frame. maybe check the ground strap from the engine block to the firewall on the drivers side of the engine as well. And while your looking at these cables, check the battery ones lol.
Here's a yotube video about relay and wiring them up:
Is there a fuel filter before the electric fuel pumps? maybe it's debris in the tank causing the failures...
Add a ground strap or cable from the engine block (where the battery ground cable goes) to the frame. maybe check the ground strap from the engine block to the firewall on the drivers side of the engine as well. And while your looking at these cables, check the battery ones lol.
Here's a yotube video about relay and wiring them up:
Is there a fuel filter before the electric fuel pumps? maybe it's debris in the tank causing the failures...
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
It's important to re-charge a dead battery right away with an outboard charger, do not try to charge with the vehicle alternator, unless you're driving to Montana or something like that. Even then, it is very hard on them and the regulator.
I'd look at installing new battery cables, this is a commonly neglected source of trouble as well.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm
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What do you think keeps killin my battery? And yes there's a filter before the pump and before the carb obviously.
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It's easy, all you need is a digital voltmeter. Have to have one if you're gonna run old iron. Or new iron for that matter. I'll post a link here in a second that will walk you through step by step.
It's important to re-charge a dead battery right away with an outboard charger, do not try to charge with the vehicle alternator, unless you're driving to Montana or something like that. Even then, it is very hard on them and the regulator.
I'd look at installing new battery cables, this is a commonly neglected source of trouble as well.
Diagnosing A Car Battery That Runs Down
It's important to re-charge a dead battery right away with an outboard charger, do not try to charge with the vehicle alternator, unless you're driving to Montana or something like that. Even then, it is very hard on them and the regulator.
I'd look at installing new battery cables, this is a commonly neglected source of trouble as well.
Diagnosing A Car Battery That Runs Down
Like I said everything is all new. All down to the cables and terminals. I recharge it no matter what with an outboard like you said. I have had to jump it though to get it home. But almost everything in my truck is aftermarket. It's got me boogered bc it's never givin me a problem. I've ran the same stuff other that the fuel pump since I've owned it. And I've installed all of it myself.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
OK, good. You're tracking then.
Follow the link I provided. At the same site, there are a few different pages on Alternator testing, battery checks, and voltage drop tests. It's EASY, and best of all, doesn't cost anything other than a few minutes of your time. Very useful skill to have, and pays for itself quick. As you may know, for many people batteries, alternators and other electrical parts have gotten kind of spendy to say nothing of shop labor rates. I don't blame them or anything, but jeeze louise anything we can do as owner operators to keep costs down is OK in my book.
Keeping the electrical system in spec pays for itself quick.
Follow the link I provided. At the same site, there are a few different pages on Alternator testing, battery checks, and voltage drop tests. It's EASY, and best of all, doesn't cost anything other than a few minutes of your time. Very useful skill to have, and pays for itself quick. As you may know, for many people batteries, alternators and other electrical parts have gotten kind of spendy to say nothing of shop labor rates. I don't blame them or anything, but jeeze louise anything we can do as owner operators to keep costs down is OK in my book.
Keeping the electrical system in spec pays for itself quick.
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