So I need to replace the clutches on my H2A 9" Axle. I was wondering if it would be ok to just replace the Trac-Lok clutches without replacing anything else like bearings or having to reset the gears? I would like to revive the Trac-Lok as economically as possible but not as stupidly as possible. If it is a much better idea to freshen the bearings and do some other maintenance while I'm in there, well then I guess I grab a book and start collecting tools and parts. That's usually the best time to learn!


Thanks Guys,
Josh

 

i would say if you have it all apart, go through the whole diff. for the minimal cost of the bearings, i say replace them while you have it all apart. it will not be a waste.

 

Would I have to reset the backlash or anything like that? I guess it wouldn't hurt to check it but if I can take it apart and replace the bearings without having to set anything back up that would be nice.

 

Your pinion adjustment could be left alone but if you change the bearing ( highly recommended) then you would need to reshim the pinion. As for the crown gear, you will need to adjust it if you remove the clutches, no choice there at all. The only special tool you would need will be a dail guage to set the backlash. You may also want to consider replacing the axle bearings an seals at the same time, once you remove the axles the seals have a nasty habbit of leaking when they are put back in. None of this is hard just time consuming and you'll need some patients when making the adjustments.

 

This is a 9 inch right? Perhaps the easiest differential in the world to work on. The carrier will have to come out, and my this, the adjusters will have to be loostened. Once they are loose, and the bearing caps removed, the lash will be gone, but easilly set once again. Since there is no reason to remove the pinion, the pinion depth will still be just fine.
While new bearings are a good idea, I might leave them alone, if I were to inspect and feel comfortable with them.
A good dial indicator will be required to verify and set the lash again, but it is easy and not all that difficult. Setting up the 9 inch is a cake walk, since it is adjustable.
Most of us have a 4" grinder in the garage, and tha tool that comes with them to remove the spindle nut is the same tool required to turn the adjusters. Ok, it is not exactly the tool, but most of the tools for the grinders work just fine.
A quality spanner wrench is worth buying though.

If you can handle the set up of the clutches and side gears in the carrier, setting up the gears again will be no problem.

 

Ed, The old 4 point Dana 44 hub wrench fits the side adjusters too in the 9" rear. I don't replace any bearings or races that look good either. I would check the gears with some marking paste though, just to know for sure.

 

First off, thanks for the replies! And yes it is a 9 inch. However, I'm gonna be honest here and say that I have absolutely ZERO experience with rear ends. The closest I have come is replacing an axle bearing and seal on my last truck (76 w/ 9"), which isn't very close. I admit I was being a little optimistic about the repack. However, I have a good amount of tools (no dial gauge, though, and no air) and I have been really wanting to learn how to work on rear ends, esp. since the 9" has the reputation of being easier to work on. I really feel that taking the diff out and going to a shop is out of the question because afterward I still wouldn't know how to do anything and I don't trust very many shops. At least, if I gave them the diff, when I got it back I could check the tolerances myself, but still.

It seems like I might be living w/o the Trac Lok for a while, while I gather tools and parts. I don't think the job will be too difficult, but it will be a learning process. And I have the luxury of time since I have another car to drive. It will probably be a better idea to take my time and go through the diff and make sure I replace what is needing to be replaced while I'm in there, and do a good job.

Do you guys have any tips or websites for setting up the side gears and clutches? Do I need the Trac Lok assembly tool? How about any good books for rear end set up? Also I was wondering if I should consider any upgrades like a daytona pinion support? I have seen these on Bronco Graveyard, but don't know much about them.

Thanks for all you guys' help and sorry for my newbie questions,

Josh

 

As far as side gears go, I don't think anyone sells new ones. You can use ones from a open carrier, make sure you are getting the right spline count carrier and side gears. The right side gear is the same in either carrier but you will have to have the shoulder ground off the left one, then it will work. I get it ground off as close as I can with a angle grinder then take it to a local machine shop and get it ground the rest of the way off, good and flat. You will need to install a axle in the carrier to get all the splines lined up before you tighten the case halfs up. One other tip if you are setting pinion debth, you don't need to keep removing the pinion housing every time you want to try a different shim, just put a few feeler gages of the thickness available in your kit in and around the edges of the housing/pinion support & tighten it down. Then when it's shimmed right remove them and put the right pinion shim in. Stock pinion supports are fine. When inspecting a carrier look at the small rear pinion support bearing bore in the housing, they sometimes break/crack there.

 

Did you replace the rear end greese? I would try replacing the rear end greese and put in the additive for limited slip diffs. then find a place to do multiple figure 8 turns, this will help free up the clutches and may fix your trouble. It's certainly worth a shot and may save you alot of trouble.

 

I just changed the oil a few months back, before I found out it had a trac lok. I think I'm going to drain some fluid and try the LS Additive. Ill give the figure 8 trick a shot too. Mainly, my problem is that I'm not getting the traction to both tires. Now, I'm thinking that a rear end rebuild is going to take a backseat to my sorely needed engine rebuild. or at least until I can gather the parts, tools, and know how I need to do the job right.

Josh

 

Ford didn't offer a true traction lock where both wheels are powered equally or locked. Ford has the limited slip only, where when one wheel strarts to slip it the clutches then transfer power to the oposite wheel and will transfer power back ond forth in equal tracion areas, thus the Limited slip name. If you try your truck in sand and the power transfers from side to side then your rear end is working the way it should. There is a way to check this with a jack and torque wrench but I'm not positive on the exact process.

 

Ok, I wasn't sure exactly how it worked. I only saw one tire stripe when I was pulling out of some muddy grass. I may not have had enough wheel spin as I was going pretty slow trying not to tear up the grass. Also it was only about 10ft work of slippage, so I guess it was hard to tell. I'll have to try it on the hardpack when it dries up some.

Josh