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I've taken John's advice and decided to register my truck for the first time and get it out on the road, if not just to Sonic and back.
I still feel really uncomfortable with the drum brakes....but that's another thread for another day....
Question - Is the warranty plate number (on the driver side doorjamb) the same number as the VIN?
Common sense tells me it is, but the last registration (in my Grandfather's name, before he gave it to me 10 years ago) I have for the truck has the VIN the exact same, except for one number is off. I assume it is just a mistake on the registration, but wanted to confirm that with the experts.
For registration and title purposes, go by the frame stamped VIN, located on the passenger side frame just behind the alternator. A little WD40 on a rag and the VIN should be easily seen.
Schuyler, Don't know the laws in your state, but if you have a title from the previous owner, that should be all that you have to present to have it put in your name. Things may change but the paper is all that is required in NC.
My truck a F100 is titled by the door that has a F25 tag on it. The largest issue is havening paper and insurance.
The problem is that I don't have a title, because according to previous owners "it never had one." I spent yesterday on hold with the DMV from TN and GA with the VIN that was on the last known registration (from Ga). The folks in Ga said that the VIN didn't have a title and that they wouldn't issue one. I told that to TN and now I just have to fill out a certification of ownership form, basically just claiming the vehicle.
I think I will just try to use the warranty info on the door for the VIN this time around. NOT what's on the old registration, as I don't see that # anywhere on the vehicle.
In the government's defense, it's not going to be that difficult
Suggest contact DMV and inquire if there's a process for getting title on an abandoned vehicle. In Ca. there's what is referred to as a 'lien sale'. I started the process and took plates to DMV picked up a lien packet, last know address of prior owner, along with information and history DMV had on the vehicle. It's a means of obtaining title on a vehicle that's been abandoned on your property and DMV does not need to know a family member was a prior owner. Anyhow, may want to check and see if your state has simular procedure.
Also check with salvage yards and explain what you are attempting to do and see if they have any suggestions.
The go to number is stamped on top of the passenger side chassis rail just ahead of where the front axle passes under. While sometimes difficult to dig out, is there.
Thing is the DMV has done this before but they think helping is above them.
I think I will just try to use the warranty info on the door for the VIN this time around. NOT what's on the old registration, as I don't see that # anywhere on the vehicle.
In the government's defense, it's not going to be that difficult
If the VIN on the Warranty Plate does not match the VIN on the registration...the door has been changed.
While not common, the following is not un-common either:
People replaced damaged left doors with used doors.
99% of the time, they did not install the originalandcorrect Warranty Plate on the replaced door.
Do what jowilker suggests, go by the VIN stamped on the top of the frame rail.
The reason that Ford stamped that hidden frame VIN was so DMV's and law enforcement could verify ownership.
If...you go by that Warranty Plate VIN, and the truck it originally came off of was reported stolen...guess what will happen?
The truck will be confiscated, and you may be subject to arrest...for receiving stolen property....even though you had nothing to do with it.
This door swapping issue has been a PITA for decades, affects 1963/66's; 1967/72's; 1973/79's since all these years have the Warranty Plate located on the left door face below the latch.
I would not provide any conflicting info to the clerk at DMV, if anything like the DMV staff in Ca. many don't know their backside from a hole in the wall. If understand correctly, the conflicting documents is between the 'bill of sale' to that of the VIN, and the info was never registered with DMV when obtained over 10 yrs ago. I would inquire about the procedure for getting title to an abandoned vehicle, sign an affidavit declaring truck has not been move, and only provide the VIN from the frame, and license plate # if available.
I finally got time to really make an attempt at finding this frame stamped VIN. I am embarrassed to report that I could not for the life of me find this VIN on the "top of the rail, right behind the alternator OR in front of the axle." I quote to make sure I understood correctly.
My frame is in good shape, so I am very frustrated that I can't find it...but if I don't swallow my pride and ask for more help in finding this VIN, I will just stay frustrated
The door swapping makes a lot of sense, but it would really surprise me if this door was not the original. I realize the key is to find the frame stamped VIN.
As soon as I verify the atual VIN on the frame, I am going to use that # to register the truck, and kind of just ignore the VIN on the old registration (as was suggested).
So, any more tips on locating this VIN would be appreciated. I will not be offended if someone posts a "dummy's guide to finding the VIN" post!
Reading from the 65 Ford Truck Shop Manual: The official Serial Number used for title and registration is stamped on the follow locations.
P-series-right frame side rail approx. 4 inches to the rear of the first crossmember.
N, NT, F, T and B series-right frame side rail approx. 24 inches forward of the No. 2 crossmember.
Wonder what difference is between 4" to the rear of first crossmember, and 24" forward of No 2 crossmember.
When I pulled the 352 engine from my 1965 F100 in 1981, I was amazed to discover the VIN stamped directly under the harmonic balancer on the engine crossmember.
The truck was assembled in San Jose CA in January 1965.
Schuyler, Can only speak from experience, sometimes they can hide real good. The number runs lengthwise, the digits are 1/8in tall, and sometimes is hidden by rubber flap on fender apron. I had a hell of a time finding mine. If you have one of those angle head shop mirrors on a stick and a good light try looking from below. Sometimes looking at a smaller area at a time can help.
All that I have ever seen were in the same general area. I am limited to a dozen or so chassis.
BTW:The number is stamped a second time under the cab on the same rail. You will have to have the mirror to find that one.