I decide to save time by buying Zerex G05 from NAPA, Distilled water for walmart and letting Jiffy Lube do the exchange. Well the infidels at Jiffy Lube open the valve at the bottom of the truck and drained about a Gal. of coolant out. Then he added one gal of my Zerex started the truck up, topped it off and said "okay you're good Coolant looked fine coming out" Boy I was dumbed founded!! So I calmly explained to him how he just messed my truck up and I went straight to the dealer to correct it. They did better but not by much. The dealer finished in about 30mins. so I was curious of the process.
they drain the coolant first
then they add tap water and run to operating temp
then they run an additive that prevents rust and drain again
then they add 1gal of coolant and top off with water

I asked why tapp water he said it doesn't make a difference

Keep in mind I never done this process and I only no what I read on these sites. I just don't know what to do. Looks like I need to take a diesel course to do everthing myself.

 

well a few things i would like to say I hope you didnt pay jiffy lube for their coolant work because thats not what you asked for. Its prob not a huge deal if u use tap water even though the things they add to water arnt that good but theirs not enough of them in there to make a difference. although im mot a huge fan of the additives "for rust" im just not sold that they are affective. how many miles are on your truck? the major thing u need to know is weather the coolant is good to the prefered temp or which can be tested with a tester from napa that only cost a few bucks..

 

Tap water has minerals that are in it and cause issues down the road... at least for diesels.

Distileld water has no minerals and is what Ford uses from the factory and why they state (but have snce changed) that the factory fill for the 6.0L was 100,000 miles and only 50,000 after that (due to using tap water).

If a dealer or shop uses tap water and really flushes the syste, then you will be fine... but just remember to flush and change it all again in 50,000 miles.

I also find it hard that your motor's thermostate opened and allowed the cleaner to flush through and that they then had time to flush it several more times to completely flush it all out before adding new coolant!!!!

Your story is why I flush and refill my own systems every 50,000 miles and I only use distilled water too!!!

1) Drop lower radiator hose & drain.

2) Retighten hose and refill with distilled water via the degas bottle.

3) Drive truck until temp gauge comes up and thermostat opens.

4) Repeat steps #1 through 3 at least 5 times.

5) After the 5th time, drop the lower radiator hose and drain.

6) You now have 100% distilled water in your motor.

6) Look at your owner's manual and calculate what 50% of your total systems capacity is and add this amount of straight coolant (mine is 3.5 gallons). Just pour it in - straight coolant no water (yet).

7) After you have added the proper amount of straight coolant, now use more distilled water (only) to top off your degas to the MIN mark.

8) Drive your truck so it heats up (temp guage and thermostat) and purges all air in system (if any) and allow to cool.

9) Recheck your degas bottle and add only distilled water to bring to MIN mark (no coolant since you added the proper amount of coolant already).

10) Your done!!!!!

p.s. - If you have a coolant filter, add an extra pint or so of coolant due the slight extra capacity of your system with this mod.
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Materials needed:
1) 4 gallons of Ford Premium Gold Coolant or a brand specifically rated for the spec in your manual. I just pay the $11.99/gallon at my dealer and never worry about it.

2) 16 - 18 gallons of distilled water from grocery store (distilled (not drinking water) - nothing else will do).

3) Pliers or screwdriver to loosen lower radiator hose clamp.

4) Paper towels - since I get messy.

 

So has Ford now changed it's recommendation to 50,000 miles for the first flush?

 

Premium Gold says 5 years or 105,000 miles. Ford is now saying to base the change on nitrate levels in the cooling system. I just did mine with 30,000 miles on it because I hit the 5 year mark. Jeff and I are conservative when it comes to maint. Maint. is cheaper than repair even if you are **** about it.

 

Isn't it a good idea to put the heat on in the truck to flush the heater core as well, or does the coolant always flow through the heater core even when the heat isn't on?

 

You are correct. Some of the manual systems just use the flapper door and the auto systems have a hot water control valve. To play it safe, yes turn on the heater control to max.

 

As posted above Ford states to base the coolant flushing/changing on nitrate levels.

However, nitrate levels change based upon how hard one works their motors (towing, tuning, part of country one lives in, city driving, highway driving and such).

I am just to lazy to buy nitrite test strips and test... I just flush every 50,000 miles (which is every 2 to 2-1/2 years for me) and just never worry about it.

I also have a dieselsite.com coolant filter which is the best mod ever invented.

For me, I just spend the $80.00 and do a coolant flush every 50,000 miles and never worry about it... but that's me.