So I've got a problem where my front bearings won't stay adjusted. I just replaced the rotors, pads and bearings and still get play before I even get out of my driveway. Is it possible for a spindle to become worn. Parts were replaced under warranty thinking that the rotors were bored wrong. But still no change after changing to different rotors.

Yes they have been torqued properly and even when overtightened I still get play. I can hear it knocking and if I grab the tire at 12:00 and 6.00 there's play and knocking. All the front suspension parts are new, tires, shocks, rotors, pads, bearings, tie rods and balljoints.

The only thing left that I can think of is the spindle but I find it hard to believe they are worn. The driver's side is worse than the passenger side. I've had the van for 10 years with no problems.

I'm stumped and this is driving me nuts.

 

Hello,

New to the forum. I have a '95 e-150 that I am doing the ball joints on.

I had previously replaced the rotors and I too noticed excessive play. I drove it anyway, and now taking it back apart for the ball joints, I noticed the outer bearing is discolored from heat. I packed them very well.

I am trying to find out if there are races for the rotor? I didn't see any races in the old rotor, so I assumed the rotor itself acted at the tapered race. Was I wrong?

I am replacing the wheel bearings, but I want to be sure I do this right. I didn't notice any bearing spacers other than the square holed washer behind the jamb nut.

Am I too missing something?

TIA,

James

 

Races are usually pre-installed in rotors without the races the bearing wouldn't fit at all. Did you adjust the bearing properly? Over tightening would cause overheating.

 

Thanks Avenge!

I didn't think there were press in races for the rotor, and I've been searching my butt off for a clue (google).

I would say there's about .06 to .10 inch of play pulling it back and then pushing it towards the knuckle. Horizontally moving it. There's a little "click" sound, not a clunk.

I packed the bearings, (new seal, yes) and tightened the nut to 25 ft. lbs. Then rotated the rotor and backed off 1 turn. Then tightened again to 25 ft. lbs while rotating the rotor. Then backed off 1/2 turn. Tightened to 5 ft lbs and backed off about 1/16th turn to allow cotter pin insertion.

I don't have a shop manual, because frankly I'm poor.

 

Well sounds like you have a strange problem like me, looks like you torqued them right. There isn't supposed to be any noticeable play. In your case the overheating of the outer bearing is very strange.

I'm gonna take mine apart tomorrow (again) and inspect a few things. Mine has so much play you can hear and feel it knock.

 

I don't know what's up for sure.

Frankly, I've turned a wrench in the shade for 30 years, but I can't figure out if these bearings have insert races or not. On the 'net, some kits show a race, others don't. Of course the Zone or Rock Auto show stock pictures of some generic part, so it's hard to say.

I'm going to replace them, and a new rotor, but I'll ask the trusted local parts counter on what's right for application. I didn't get any noise driving, I just noticed the outer bearing is blue / black from overheat as typical. The old rotor is long gone. The one on there now is a replacement, and no, I didn't think there was an insert race for the bearing.

Maybe with a new rotor and old bearings I had some wear and hence the play, but you have new parts for both. It's weird. Most of the time I have felt noticeable resistance while loading the bearings, torqued to preload, but this time I didn't. It almost seemed like the bearings were "short" and I could have torqued to 100 lbs and it wouldn't have mattered. (No tightness or resistance from bearing bind)

However, if races ARE supposed to be inserted, even if they're thin, that would make the difference and I would get bearing bind with preload. That's what I'm leaning towards. Otherwise, it's bad specs on cheap rotors. (Valuecraft cheapies from AutoZone....it is a '95 after all....)

 

They definitely have pressed in races I replaced them on my second set, thinking maybe the old races weren't seating properly with the new bearings. I normally don't replace the races because I buy new rotors every year. I bought the cheap ones from Oreilly, they upgraded me to their best for free thinking that the rotors were the problem.

I don't mind replacing the spindles but I hate having to deal with the ball joints, I've had to have them pressed in or out every time. Mine's a 95 too but some people think it's brand new.

Same here been doing this for 35 years and I'm really stumped and aggravated on this one, I'm having a hard time believing it's the spindle but it's the only part left to replace. It's a longshot but I'm going to try a different brand of bearing tomorrow and test fit both brands on the spindle without the rotor. I'm thinking there's something going on with the inner bearings where they contact the spindle.

 

Well, if they have races to insert, then I'm an idiot and that's what I did wrong!



As far as bearings, I did notice searching that there are two different sizes. One for the Club Wagon, and then one for all other applications. I have an E-150 Cargo that I use for work as a carpenter.

I guess the good Lord was looking out for me since I ran the replacement rotors on stock bearings with NO races for over 20k miles.....sheesh. No wonder the bearings heated and the grease is BLACK. I knew something was amiss....

Thanks for the feedback. I'd check your bearing specs. I can't imagine the spindle wore much if any, the bearings are cone / carriage so they shouldn't really turn at all on the spindle. My spindle is fine despite my error.

Let me / us know what you figure out?

Thanks again,

James

 

Same here, mine's a cargo and I do remodeling. I can torque them to 25ft/lbs drive 20 feet and hear the knock. I need it for work and haven't been driving it the last few days, can't haul doors, tile, etc. in my car!!!!!

 

Update....

So I went to the parts store, decided to just do the whole darn side. New ball joints, (tie rod was fine) new bearings, rotor, brake caliper, hose and new semi metallic pads.

This is drivers side.

I have to say, I'm embarrassed how far I let it go. Once I jacked it up, I grabbed the tire at 12 and 6 and I swear, I could move it a half an inch! That's how bad the lower ball joint was. The upper had just a little play. These are the original units, zerkless. The wheel bearings had play, tested by grabbing the tire at 1:30 and 7:30 and I got just a little movement.

105k miles all OEM except the rotor and pads.

Once I got it all back together, it's like a new van. I haven't done the passenger side yet, just scraping by and need to collect the rest of the parts.

Anyway, I must have had worn bearings (the camber was so bad I'm sure it hurt them) because with new bearings and new rotor, I was able to preload like it should, with no detectable play in any direction.

And the old rotor? It did have races in it, pre pressed in just like the new one did.

Apparently my problem was just old worn parts. All back together, nice and tight, and working good.

I'd lean towards you having a mis matched set of bearings to rotor or somethings like that. I bought Timken from the Zone.

I wish you luck with it!