2WD Front Wheel Bearings
#1
2WD Front Wheel Bearings
Thought about replacing the front brake pads on my 85 F250 2WD 6.9L and found the rotors were pretty well gouged (pads were still pretty thick but with ridges matching the grooves in the rotors). So I held off on the brakes and decided to get a new set of rotors. My question is what can / should I re-use as far as bearings and associated pieces go?
It looks like the outer bearing / race is still good but I wasn't able to get the grease retainer out to inspect the inner bearing / race. Would I just be better off replacing both inner and outer bearings (outer bearing, outer bearing race, inner bearing, inner bearing race and grease retainer) than re-using the old ones? Keep in mind this is the first time I've seen wheel bearings so spotting a worn one from a good one is something I have no experience with.
Also, is there a special tool for getting the grease retainer and inner bearing off the hub / rotor? Any special tool required for getting it back on?
It looks like the outer bearing / race is still good but I wasn't able to get the grease retainer out to inspect the inner bearing / race. Would I just be better off replacing both inner and outer bearings (outer bearing, outer bearing race, inner bearing, inner bearing race and grease retainer) than re-using the old ones? Keep in mind this is the first time I've seen wheel bearings so spotting a worn one from a good one is something I have no experience with.
Also, is there a special tool for getting the grease retainer and inner bearing off the hub / rotor? Any special tool required for getting it back on?
#2
There is a special tool for removing grease seals from the hub but a long heavy screwdriver or a breaker bar or a number of similar other tools will do the same thing for you. Also after the grease seal is removed the inner bearing will come out of the hub. The grease seal is the only thing holding it in the hub.
#3
And also there is a special tool for putting in new grease seals but they can be carefully tapped back into place with a small hammer being careful not to damage the seal or a large socket that would match the diameter of the metal ring on the seal would work with a hammer. They come out and go in relatively easy. Taking it out you really don't have to be concerned with damaging it anyways because you are replacing it with a new one.
#4
As you can see I'm having a problem getting this all into one post. As far as the wheel bearings go if you are replacing the rotors,hub assembly the new hubs should already have bearing races in them. I,m assuming that your rotor/hub is all one piece as my 1989 2wd was. It it is you'll be better off just to replace the wheel bearings because they are a low cost item but get good ones (timken or equivalent)
#5
Clean the bearings and the races good, and look for any black spots or pitting. If the races and the little rollers are smooth and shiny, I would re-use them. I have never been able to get the grease seal out without damaging it, so I would get new ones since you are going to take the bearings out.
I have never seen hubs with the races already installed, but of course I haven't seen everything.
I have never seen hubs with the races already installed, but of course I haven't seen everything.
#6
#7
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to get the seals out without damge, remove the outer wheel bearingand put the spindle nut back on. Then slide the rotor off the spindle, when the inner bearing hits the nut it will pop the seal out, (may take a couple firm wacks) usually without damage. I've done this 100's of time to keep the cost of a brake job down and dont remember ever having a problem(some seals arent cheap)
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#8
to get the seals out without damge, remove the outer wheel bearingand put the spindle nut back on. Then slide the rotor off the spindle, when the inner bearing hits the nut it will pop the seal out, (may take a couple firm wacks) usually without damage. I've done this 100's of time to keep the cost of a brake job down and dont remember ever having a problem(some seals arent cheap)
Hmmm...I am filing that idea away for the future.
#9
you do know that you have to "pack" the wheel bearings dont you? take a palm full of high temp wheel bearing grease, and with your other hand start smashing the bearing into the grease until it starts to come out between the rollers. keep smashing all the way around until the grease is all the way through the bearing, and all the way around. put the bearing in the back of the rotor tapered side in. instal the seal, you can use a clean piece of wood to tap it in gently. I always use new seals, don't want to do the work twice if seal was bad. put a small smear of grease where the seal rides. instal rotor, go in straight and gently, so you don't tear the seal. instal your previously packed outside bearing taper in. instal your washer. hand instal your nut. spin the rotor around by hand to spread the grease. tighten the nut as per the torque settings. spin the rotor to make sure grease lets the bearing bottom out. recheck torque, install new cotter pin to 1st set of holes it lines up with.replace dust cap. don't wack he cap with a hammer, you will dent it, and it will leak. just tap the edge with small screwdriver until it seats.
#12
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Forgot to mention repacking, I usually just pack the new grease in and that pushes enough of the old stuff out. Another trick is to take the old bearing cone and push it tight into the outer race while rotating it back and forth, checking for any roughness. I have seen a couple inner races pitted real bad and the outer race and rollers look good
#13
Got everything I need to get the job done now I just need to find the time. The inner and outer races did come with the new hub/rotor and I decided to go out and buy new inner and outer bearings and a new seal. I think I'll try the spindle nut method for removing the seal just to try it, plus I don't really have anything to lose. I also got a tub of bearing grease so I'll be sure to repack the bearings.
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