I stopped over today to check out the trans issue and see Brian and Sam.
They are doing good and wanted me to say 'HI"

The truck starts off in second gear. Even with the manual lever in 1st.
I read the codes and got this.


Both Pat and I thought it would be a good idea to disconnect the DP Tuner and test with out the DP to eliminate that possibility so i intended to do that today. So Brian and I preceded to remove battery cables and remove the chip. We cleared the codes and went for a drive. It started in 1st ok. We were excited. But after a few stop and starts it went back to its bad habits of starting in 2nd. After returning back to the house i read the codes again. The code that was new, without the DP was p0781. Could this be a stuck shift solenoid? I have read that somone has removed, polished and it worked fine. Is there any websites of the "how to?"
We are leaning towards a stuck solenoid? We on the right track?

Codes after DP removed.


Boy Mark would be giving me an ear full right about now. ""Your doing what to my truck? The buffalo bills suck and can't believe i watch them miserable xxxxxxxxxx&^$*&#())@*#$&$^$%^#* BILS ! """

 

I'm no help here Dan but here is a bump. Thanks for doing this for the family.

 

I know of an early 99 2WD that's being parted out. Tranny was rebuilt about 20,000 miles ago. I'm not sure what I could get it off the guy for, and what freight would be, but if it turns out to be needed I'll see if it's still available and go from there.

Sounds like we need Mark Kovalsky's expertise on this one. I'll PM and ask him to have a look-see.

EDIT: PM sent to Mark Kovalsky.

 

That's the best thing that can be done.

 

That code means the computer didn't see a 1-2 shift when it should have. It probably isn't a shift solenoid, there is a code for a stuck shift solenoid.

I'm leaning towards a stuck 1-2 shift valve in the valve body. The shift solenoid controls the shift valve, which sends pressure to the clutch to make the shift.

 

Oh,, Ok.. Can the valve body be taken out and just cleaned? I never had one out. Is is something like take the pin out and clean and polish? Is there any website information on removing the valve body and parts diagram?

I will have to dig through my ford cd and see what i can find, But this cd is pretty basic on some things

 

The valve body can be removed after removing the pan. There are a lot of valves (duh!) and springs. I suspect the one that does the 1-2 shift is sticking either due to a piece of debris or damage to the valve or bore. It doesn't take a large piece to stick a valve, it can be something almost too small to see.

You'll need a diagram of the valve body to know which valve is which. I don't have one.

 

Would a BTS or a JW type valve body solve this issue?

 

Subscribing.

 

Here ya' go, Dan. Hope this helps.


Item Part Number Description
1 — Body control valve — lower
2 — Bolt, M1-1x36 hex flange head (2 req'd)
3 — Plate, spring retaining
4 — Spring, shift valve
5 — Valve, manual 1-2 transition
6 — Retainer, valve plug
7 — Plug, valve retainer
8 — Spring, engagement valve
9 — Valve, control engagement
10 — Body, control valve — upper
11 7E195 Ball, 5/16-inch shuttle (2 req'd)
12 7E195 Ball, 1/4-inch shuttle (2 req'd)
13 — Valve, control manual
14 — Ring, retaining
15 — Retainer, valve plug
16 — Sleeve, low/reverse modulator valve
17 — Plunger, low/reverse modulator valve
18 — Spring, low servo modulator
19 — Valve, low servo modulator
20 — Valve, low/reverse modulator
21 — Retainer, valve plug
22 — Plug, valve retaining
23 — Spring, shift valve
24 — Valve, 3-4 shift
25 — Plate, spring retaining
26 — Spring, 2-3 shift valve
27 — Valve, 2-3 shift
28 — Plate, spring retaining
29 — Spring solenoid regulator valve
30 — Solenoid, regulator valve
31 — Plate, spring retaining
32 — Spring, shift valve
33 — Valve, coast clutch shift
34 — Plate, spring retaining
35 — Spring, 4-3-2 shift timing
36 — Plunger, control valve shift timing
37 — Plate, spring retaining
38 — Valve, 4-3-2 timing
39 — Spring, 4-3-2 shift timing
40 — Retainer, valve plug
41 — Plug, valve retaining
42 — Valve, 1-2 shift
43 — Valve, drive 2
44 — Spring, 1-2 shift valve
45 7G391 Solenoid body assembly (model-dependent)
46 7G422 Accumulator valve body control (model-dependent)
47 — Retainer, valve plug
48 — Plug, valve retainer
49 — Spring, accumulator valve — outer
50 — Plunger, accumulator regulator
51 — Retainer, accumulator spring
52 — Spring, accumulator regulator valve
53 — Valve, accumulator regulator
54 — Retainer, valve plug
55 — Plug, valve retaining
56 — Spring, accumulator valve — outer
57 — Plunger, accumulator regulator
58 — Retainer, accumulator spring
59 — Spring, accumulator regulator valve
60 — Valve, accumulator regulator
61 — Retainer, valve plug
62 — Plug, valve retaining
63 — Spring, accumulator valve — outer
64 — Plunger, accumulator regulator
65 — Retainer, accumulator spring
66 — Spring, accumulator regulator valve
67 — Valve, accumulator regulator
68 — Retainer, valve plug
69 — Sleeve, line press modulator
70 — Plunger, line press modulator
71 — Spring and retainer assembly, press modulator
72 — Spring, throttle press line modulator
73 — Valve, line press modulator
74 7A008 Control valve body separator plate

I removed and cleaned all of these valves when I rebuilt my trans 2 years ago.

 

wow. Thanks.. #42 looks like the ticket. If we go after this valve will we know if it is stuck? Can we get the valve out without removing the body assembly? You are right. Tons of valves and springs/goodies. Yikes !. Good idea to just remove the VB and disassemble everything and clean?

 

That would be a good idea. If one valve is sticking, there could more debris floating around in there that could make it's way elsewhere. To be able to do a thorough cleaning, you need to remove the VB. If it's sticking, you won't be able push it out unless you can push on the spool from the open side on the top of the VB.

 

ok. Cool.. I have send this info to Brian. He has access to a lift. I will give him a call later to let him know i emailed him all the info and to see when he wants to tackle this.

Thanks for all the info.

 

BTW, VB bolt torque is 80-100 in-ilbs.

 

{soapbox}
Understanding how a seemingly small, insignificant speck of debris can create big problems in such a complex mechanism as a transmission should underscore the need to attempt to ensure the absolute cleanliness of the trans oil.

External transmission filtration, anyone?

I just don't understand a "performance builder's" reluctance to use it.

Designed with sufficient flow capacity, it should be a non-issue. I personally believe that the MagnaFine is too small, and that there are better ways.
http://springerpop.net/F350/transmission_filter.html

{/soapbox}

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