im going to box my frame an ive never done this before, what kind of metal stripping should i useto box it should i use just flat stripping or something like what the frame is made out of now i think its chennel maybe idk... and should i get it a little smaller than the frame and weld it inside it or the hieght and weld it on the side, and what gauge metal should i use should i use the same as the frame,and should i wire feed weld it or arc weld?

ty, john

 

I used 3/16" plate and cut it to fit with my plasma cutter. I believe some have used 1/8" plate.

I welded it in place with a MIG. Whatever method you choose, when you weld it just do small spots, about 1 inch or 2 at a time to avoid warping. Move around to avoid concentrating the heat in any one spot for long.

Make sure your frame is level, supported and not twisted before you start or you will weld it into the contorted shape you brace it up in.

On the ends, use a fish mouth instead of straight edge to avoid cracking or building stress risers into your boxing plates. Randy Jack suggests the fish mouth length be 1.5 times the height. This allows for flex without stressing the weld joint. (I hope he or someone will correct me if I misunderstood him and told you wrong.)

That is all I can think of now.

 

exactly what baca said, there are pictures in my gallery that might help you out

 

I used some 1/8x6 flatbar that I had. I made cardboard templates, transfered the shape to the steel, used a metal blade in a jigsaw to cut them out and welded them in place. I set my boxing plates in from the edge of the frame about 1/4"....it makes welding alot easier.

Like the others said....make short welds, jump around alot, you don't want to build up too much heat in any one area. Let each weld air cool before going back to the area again.

Good luck
Bobby

 

All good info, 1/8" (10ga) stock is plenty heavy enough, boxing strength is based on the rectangular tube shape formed, not the material thickness used. Before you start, survey your current frame and it's attachments. You will have to provide access to any/all attached hardware and accessories that now bolt or screw to the frame, such as spring hangers, fuel lines, brake lines, running board supports, etc etc etc. If you plan to replace the hardware with bolts spanning from face to face of the new box shape, you will need to weld in tubing bungs across the frame for the bolts to go thru and tighten against. First, I myself would not use solid plates. I would get a high quality 3" hole saw and cut ovals out of the face of the plates by sawing two holes ~ 6" apart and cutting out the material between the holes with a metal blade in a saber saw or a thin cutoff wheel on a air powered 3" cutoff wheel or 4" angle grinder. arrange these in strategic spots to allow tool access to the inside of the frame in places where access may be needed. If you keep the cutouts centered in the plate they can be as close together as every 6" without compromising the boxing strength (i.e. 6" long oval cutout, 6" of solid plate, 6" cutout, etc alternating down the length of the boxing plate) A 3 x 6" oval is large enough to reach inside the frame with your hand, painting equipment or a wrench, and allows access for stringing electrical wiring and lines inside the frame where they are cleanly hidden and protected.
If you do decide to use solid plate anyhow, then you'll need to sandblast or rust convert any rust inside of the frame and inside face of the boxing plates and coat the insides liberally with a zinc rich weld thru primer before welding. I would also recommend insetting the plates 1/8" - 1/4". Easy to jig with large enough welders magnets to span frame flanges and scrap steel spacers the thickness of the inset. It is not necessary to solidly weld in the boxing plates, a 1" bead every 3" is plenty and the unwelded spots will allow any moisture that gets inside to weep out and dry.
Definitely use a shielded gas mig or tig welder to weld, stick welding this thickness metal would be difficult for all but a very experienced welder and would be very messy with spatter and flux chipping.
It is critical to avoid any more weld heat concentration than is absolutely necessary and secure the frame in it's desired shape while welding. An overheated frame will warp up like a noodle and the welded in plates will make straightening afterwards near impossible.
Take plenty of time to support the frame on at least 4 - 6 sturdy jackstands, shimming it level the entire length and verifying it is square by measuring the diagonal measurements. They should be within 1/4" of equal, otherwise the frame is wracked and needs to be pulled into square. Once it is set level and square, pile a couple hundred #s of weight on each crossmember (sandbags, misc barbell weights from your set or picked up at lawn sales, etc.). Make sure the weight is secured so if bumped it doesn't fall on your foot!
Skip around while welding, side to side, front to back, as far apart as possible so no previous bead on either side of the bead you are applying is even warm to the bare hand. Limit your beads to not more than 1" in length at a time. There is no rush! Taking your time and allowing welds to cool completely will pay off 1000 X down the line. Having another project to work on between welds will help keep you from rushing. Recheck level and square frequently while welding as well.

 

I used 3/16 plate steel. Made cardboard templetes and mig welded them in.Look in my link and take a look at mine. Good luck!

 

yes what ever you do put holes in them