When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The transmission shop i put my truck in a few years ago cut out the crossmember to get the transmission out and now I'm going to have to go get a new crossmember and that requires the cab to come off. So I guess while the cab is off..... might as well strip the whole thing down and refurbish the chassis and suspension components. What should I use to strip it? I can't afford sandblasting. Will a wire brush and purple power and a determined college student work just as well? or what should I do?
Are these frames steel? I want to say steel because iron tends to not bend but break. and a chassis has to flex a little. Im going to have to weld on it a little so I need to know what metal its made out of.
Finally I will have to put some kind of coating on it to keep it from rusting. What will stick to it the best?
Ah I would think that since that transmission shop was stupid enough to have to cut it THEY would be responsible to get a replacement and install it properly.
Where did you get the idea you have to remove the cab to replace it?
Lots of wire wheeling (4"grinder with lots of wire wheels) is the cheap long time consuming route, frame made of steel yes, POR-15 yes.
At first I thought cab mounts were attached to it but I think they are separate. Anyway, shocks and springs have to be replaced too. If I were to pull off the cab and go through with this how would I do it. Its a 1977 F100 2wd 351w c4 longbed. It used to be a work truck, owned by a construction company or something like that so it kind of needs to be cleaned up under there.
At first I thought cab mounts were attached to it but I think they are separate. Anyway, shocks and springs have to be replaced too.
If I were to pull off the cab and go through with this how would I do it.
It's a 1977 F100 2wd 351w c4 longbed. It used to be a work truck, owned by a construction company or something like that so it kind of needs to be cleaned up under there.
No 351W's were factory installed until 1981. C4 factory installed with 240/300 I-6 & 302.
It could be a 351M w/a C6. 351M & 400 were introduced in 1977 and have 8 valve cover bolts per side.
What is going to be the main purpose of this truck? Show truck, daily driver, run around errand rig? I am really sure that you can replace that trans crossmember without removing that cab...
Lots of time and hard work involved in pulling a cab, you get that far, you might do a frame off restoration. If the frame mounted cab mount brackets or the actual cab mounts were bad, I could see doing it.
You have to pull the complete front clip 1st and having the bed removed will make is easier too.
No 351W's were factory installed until 1981. C4 factory installed with 240/300 I-6 & 302.
It could be a 351M w/a C6. 351M & 400 were introduced in 1977 and have 8 valve cover bolts per side.
Looks like your professional ford knowledge has over come your common sense. Don't get me wrong, I like people that know what they're talking about. That engine was pulled out of a mid 70's car (assuming LTD) and put in my truck 2 owners ago. Block casting number D4AE-6015-AA. Vin number says it came from the factory with a 302. You know A 351w is basically a 302 with a taller deck height and internal parts to make it work. Obviously a 351w was chosen because it was a more powerful direct drop in replacement. That guy was trying to do a cheap restoration/build. Put a pinkish primer on it and base coat, didn't even bother to base coat the top of the cab completely and no clear coat. Old Blue is actually matte purple. With a pink top.
Here's something I've been wondering and I think you're the guy to ask. What specs can you give me on D5TE-EB piston heads. I'm wondering about airflow and how easy it would be to port them.
What is going to be the main purpose of this truck? Show truck, daily driver, run around errand rig? I am really sure that you can replace that trans crossmember without removing that cab...
Lots of time and hard work involved in pulling a cab, you get that far, you might do a frame off restoration. If the frame mounted cab mount brackets or the actual cab mounts were bad, I could see doing it.
You have to pull the complete front clip 1st and having the bed removed will make is easier too.
Front clip is already off. Engine is out of it getting built. As for what I'm going to use it for, not a daily driver but more than just every now and then. I like to switch up which truck I drive. But I'm kind of going about this like a factory rebuild, in other words, I want it to look like it just rolled off the lot in 77 but with upgrades. Can mounts aren't bad but I want to put some polyurethane bushings on it.
Ah the front clip is not off of it IMO, just the outer fenders, radiator, core support and outer grill shell. But none the less, you are on your way with it.
A front clip IMO is the complete "front clip", like the red one hanging from cherry picker in the above pics. FYI you only remove 14 bolts un unplug a few elec connections and it comes right off.
I have not seen new core support bushings in poly.
I wish I would have known to take the front clip off like you said. It's going back on the way you took yours off. I'm probably going to try and do some body work to it. But with the crossmember, how do I take what's left of the old one off and put the new one on? It's the one located directly beneath the bellhousing.
If you read thru this thread I put a walk thru on how to pull a complete front clip and a whole lot more. Maybe you will find something to save you more time next time.
If you read thru this thread I put a walk thru on how to pull a complete front clip and a whole lot more. Maybe you will find something to save you more time next time.
Support the trans, unbolt and remove the old one, then get a complete new one piece and it will spin (laid flat and flat prop in place), make sense?
Well there wasn't anything to support the transmission so it came out with the engine lol but yes that makes sense.
I guess my main concern is the rust on the chassis. None of it looks deep but I want to get it off and coat the chassis with something that will stick to it before the rust starts weakening it. I'm sure the crossmember not connecting the rails weakens it. So besides media blasting, what will take rust off of it? Most of the old parts off of the engine I just went over them with a wire brush grinder attachment and a dremel and that worked great.
X2 on the sandblasting, give it a couple of coats of epoxy primer and what ever you desire for a topcoat, and just a friendly comment on info from ND.
He does great job of helping us out with part numbers and what was original to our trucks. Questioning his common sense probably won't get you any more help.
X2 on the sandblasting, give it a couple of coats of epoxy primer and what ever you desire for a topcoat, and just a friendly comment on info from ND.
He does great job of helping us out with part numbers and what was original to our trucks. Questioning his common sense probably won't get you any more help.
Just sayin.
Oh I wasn't questioning his common sense. He might have thought I was mistaken as to what engine was in the truck when It was actually swapped by a previous owner. I can see how my reply was kind of smartass. I can tell knows his ford's like the back of his hand.
Anyway......... after that is there like some special kind of paint I should put on it? like epoxy paint/acrylic paint.