Any tips in this area. I am planning on extending the frame of a 56 c600 coe to accommodate a longer bed to be used as a cool car transporter. Where should the extension be, best tips and suggestions???? Weld or bolt or box???

 

I have no first hand experience with frame extensions. I talked to a shop that specialized in extensions a couple of years ago when I was messing around with with the idea of a Peterbuilt tractor for a camper / race car tug.
I was told that the truck frames are a hardened steel that will crack if welded. The best way is using a bolting process called "Huck Bolt". As I understand the process, a section of frame is fabricated to fit inside the chanel of the original frame and an extension is grafted to the original frame so there is a doubler at the joint. The Huck bolt is installed in a drilled and reamed hole with a hydraluic puller that stretches the bolt through an undersized hole. The result is a bolted assembly that is much like a riveted structure where the bolt is in full contact with the surrounding metal making a slip proof connection without the stress risers of a welded connection. I did not stay at a Holiday inn last night so am no expert on the subject. But I think the process sounds like the best way to stretch a truck frame. I don't know that welding would not work if properly stress relieved and reenforced. The process of changing a frame on an old truck may be very different because of materials.
Marty

 

" I did not stay at the Holiday Inn so, I'm not an Expert"
Classic comment ! LOL

 

scottm1 extended his frame 9 feet to create his COE Car hauler.
Here is his gallery, he could probably give you some good advice.
1948 Ford F550+ 4x2 - 48 Ford F-6 Coe car haul

 

Wow that's all I can say. I hope my COE will be half as nice.

 

I am also going to have a closer look at the huck bolt. I might grab a couple and try it out first. Will keep you posted.

 

Forget the Huck bolt idea unless you want to spend a couple grand for the tooling to work them. There are frame bolts that are designed to press into drilled holes and be tightened. I have stretched many truck frames, usually I cut the rails at an angle for the splice, weld in the extension and then add a backing plate. Bolt the backing plate in and you should be good to go.

 

I looked into Huck bolts, McMaster has them, they call them rivet bolts, and the tools for them, not cheap:



The bolts are in the $6.25-13 range for a package of 10 bolts and 10 collars but the tools are between $1600-3350 plus nose piece, $360-625.

 

If your using the 56 era frame it is mild stamped steel and cut and weld to your hearts content. The new frames are alloy and can't be heated or welded without cracking.

 

concur with all that's been said. that old frame is cold steel.

and, food for thought. why go to a long wheel base thats going to be a bit of a bear to drive? after much consideration, my concept for a crew cab coe is likely to have a shortened wheel base and pull a trailer when needed. when not, negotiating it around town, cruise night, the show grounds will be much nicer.

JML

 

Would it be possible to get an extra 3.5 feet between the axles if engineering right with a new cross member of two added at either end of the extension? The existing frame is 12 feet from rear of cab to end of frame.

Another thing I wanted to know is if a 460 bb will fit in a coe without doing too much rework on front end?

Thanks in advance

 

I have other 51-56 F trucks for cruising but I need an equally nice transporter for these toys. I am not that good with trailers actually. I am getting more confident talking to you guys though and looks like I will go with the splice cut option as suggested by mechmagcn. I like the way he confidently just said what needs to be done. Consider it done. Thanks fellas

 

dude, seeing you're from down under, what considerations have you taken for what your municipals will allow on the road? from all I've read, suspension/chassis mods down there is a bit of a challenge, legally. I've heard of guys having to pay for engineer's blessings on mods to get registered.

not sure I understand your additional 3.5 feet question, but the motor question... most guys I've seen are cutting back into the floor of the cab to make room for the mill. foot room can get cramped quick. some guys have put their motor behind the cab, even.

say, Mr. Jones, how far did you look into those huckbolt thingies? I inherited a Huck 352 from my uncle who rebuilt his own T-6 Texan from the frame up. I was just talking today with my dad about selling the puller, but sounds like I may hang on to it afterall.

JML

 

i been through this forum in the hamb and found this

 

HI and WELCOME - Great to here from coe owners. Would love to see some pics. Is it a right or left hand drive? Where was it built? Was it built in the U.S. or Australia? Or maybe Canada? Would really like to know this as I am trying to research this. As for extending your frame I would take mechmagcn and vintage 56's advise. Huck bolts the size needed wouldn't be cost effective and not necessary. Be sure to have a qualified welder do the splice. Here in Canada I believe for commercial vehicles there are D.O.T. rules that must be followed, each province seems to have there own ideas. Maybe worth checking in your area. Another thing to consider is if you have a single frame that is deeper between front and back springs or a double straight frame. My 56 M-500 coe has the single deep frame so if I were to lengthen it I would do the splice in the middle, two joints. If it is a double frame I would consider adding a section on the back of the frame using part of a donner frame and move the rear end back, only one splice. If the donner frame is single and straight and yours is a double your outer frame could be cut in such way as to use the inner for the insert. Hope this helps. I am no expert but have seen and helped with this on a number of hi-way tractors over the years. If you have more questions feel free to ask. There are many ways this can be done. Post some pics of truck and frame - PLEASE. By for now - hope to see more.