no spark
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no spark
my first time here, as i have resorted to the computer for help. I put a 390 in a 66 ford bronco. ran fine until it quit one day. it backfired a couple times then nothing. towed it home, sat a couple hours and then it started again. idled for awhile then died. same thing 2 days later!! now it wont start at all. NO SPARK. replaced ignition, ignition module, coil, distributer from other ford, full of fuel and still nothing!!! please help. Cant stand to see my toy sitting in my driveway helpless!
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yup, got voltage. although i should say that the red is not hooked up, just the white wire. and its wired into the 66 bronco loom. Is it possible for the motor to jump time and still run? of course there would still have to be spark, and i dnt have any.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Connect a test light from the TACH TEST terminal of the coil, down to engine ground. You need to keep the coil connected for this test, so you should be able to clip on to exposed metal on the top of the connector. Make sure you ground the test light to clean, unpainted metal on the engine. Crank the motor over at the key, and the light should BLINK. Post back with your results.
While you're at it, explain exactly what you've got connected where. Which red wire do you have unconnected? If it's the red wire from the ignition module, then this is incorrect.
While you're at it, explain exactly what you've got connected where. Which red wire do you have unconnected? If it's the red wire from the ignition module, then this is incorrect.
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yes its the red wire from the module. the white is hooked up, along with the other four wires to the dist. I did the light test and there was no blinking.
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MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
If the light is not blinking, then the module is not firing the coil. This is why you're not getting any spark. Your task now, with our help, is to identify why the module is not firing the coil. Start by running the red wire of the module to a hot-in-RUN source. The white wire must run to a hot-in-START source.
Furthermore, there should not be four wires running to the distributor, but three - orange, purple, and black. A fourth green wire runs to the TACH TEST terminal of the coil. These four wires are within the same pigtail of the ignition module. The coil receives power through a resistive wire when the key is in RUN, and full battery voltage when the key is in START.
Furthermore, there should not be four wires running to the distributor, but three - orange, purple, and black. A fourth green wire runs to the TACH TEST terminal of the coil. These four wires are within the same pigtail of the ignition module. The coil receives power through a resistive wire when the key is in RUN, and full battery voltage when the key is in START.
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it hasnt been hooked up (red wire) since we got it running. I drove it for about couple months like this. before this all started it was pinging going up a hill, so i dropped a gear and then it acted like it was running out of fuel. But, it backfired a few times to which made me believe it jumped time. anyways, i will try running the red to a hot-in-run.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Washington
With KEY ON the light should be ON and then blink on-off when cranking.
Jim
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
This means the coil is receiving power (a good thing) and the coil is not fixed to ground (another good thing). It also means your test light is grounded properly for this test (even more good news). The only remaining piece of information to find is why the module is not switching.
It wouldn't hurt to crank the motor over with the distributor cap off, just to make sure the rotor is actually turning. The distributor can't tell the module to fire the coil if the armature doesn't move past the Hall Effect sensor.
It wouldn't hurt to crank the motor over with the distributor cap off, just to make sure the rotor is actually turning. The distributor can't tell the module to fire the coil if the armature doesn't move past the Hall Effect sensor.
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yup, did that one. rotor is turning. i got power from 2wires on the 4 prong plug and power on both red and white 2prong plug. Not sure what its supposed to be. Might try another new ignition module maybe? . Im about ready to re-wire the damn thing. Im thinking by the time i figure this thing out, i could get a second job as a secretary with all the typing ive been doing!!!!
