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Mine is working flawlessly. I've got Schaeffer's oil and ford additive. I'll double check with Cory to make sure what mine is. I kinda like the sound of the Eaton for the money.
Detroit Truetrac has helical cut gears; no clutches. That is why I'm confused as to what you have. No additive required.
I do think the price difference is worth it, but I'm still weighing my options.
Hey guys I recently bought two LS carriers from a guy I found on craigslist. It was the lighter weight carriers for our sterling 10.5 for $200.00 plus shipping. They were brand new units that had been installed in rear axles and removed. The ad was under minneapolis craigslist and dated 10-08-2009.
Hey guys I recently bought two LS carriers from a guy I found on craigslist. It was the lighter weight carriers for our sterling 10.5 for $200.00 plus shipping. They were brand new units that had been installed in rear axles and removed. The ad was under minneapolis craigslist and dated 10-08-2009.
Do you have a link to the ad? If I bought the Ford one, I would rather get the 3 pinion carrier.
One review I read about the Detroit Truetrac was that it sometimes does lock in and you have to tap the brake to get the power transfer to the other wheel. I would consider one of those if someone could give me their firsthand experience with them. Clutch types seems to be more consistent in this respect. The Ford Trac-Lok LS and the Eaton Posi are both clutch type and can be preloded tighter to get a better engagement.
I can get a new Eaton Posi for ~$680(shipped) with carrier brgs, shims, and cover gasket. The Ford is ~$600 (shipped) and would still need to buy new carrier brgs. Really only ~$50 difference. I don't mine paying for something if I get my money's worth.
Sorry for the high jack guys,but with the trouble i've been having with my (seemingly) spider gears,is the Eaton posi,a unit that replaces the gears that I would have to replace solving my rear diff. problems,or would I still need to replace the gears in there already?....again,haven't been in too many diffs. before...thanks,sorry again for the high jack....Phil
Roland, it's not in my SuperDuty, but when someone in the Ex forum recently asked about the Truetrac in my Lightning, I told them it's been tons better than the OEM limited slip diff that I replaced it with.
I've done countless burnouts in the water box at Infineon, Famoso, and Sacramento Raceway drag strips, even more laps while autocrossing, and before I got my F250 last year, it was my work truck, pulling a trailer loaded with up to 2k lbs of material regularly. The L was also my daily driver. The Truetrac has never skipped and beat and it's still running strong, working perfectly.
I don't have a link to his ad. His number is 612-309-3999. This is his side business, and he will call back. I tried to get the heavier duty carrier, but he didn't have any left. The carrier I recieved didn't have any bearings with it.
Roland, you won't have to worry about this, but my experience is that L/S or lockers are great in mud but worse than useless on ice and snow. Open Diff+ice= 1 wheel spin and sitting still. LS Diff + ice= 2 wheel spin=sideways into ditch. why don't you consider an ARB? locking dif when you want to. and onboard air to boot!
Roland, you won't have to worry about this, but my experience is that L/S or lockers are great in mud but worse than useless on ice and snow. Open Diff+ice= 1 wheel spin and sitting still. LS Diff + ice= 2 wheel spin=sideways into ditch. why don't you consider an ARB? locking dif when you want to. and onboard air to boot!
Barney
I looked at those too. I want the LS feature more often than not. I can't get good traction on "dry" ground with my open carrier.lol I need a more continuous operation. The ARB, for me, would be like having a spool/locker. It would need to stay locked.
Roland, it's not in my SuperDuty, but when someone in the Ex forum recently asked about the Truetrac in my Lightning, I told them it's been tons better than the OEM limited slip diff that I replaced it with.
I've done countless burnouts in the water box at Infineon, Famoso, and Sacramento Raceway drag strips, even more laps while autocrossing, and before I got my F250 last year, it was my work truck, pulling a trailer loaded with up to 2k lbs of material regularly. The L was also my daily driver. The Truetrac has never skipped and beat and it's still running strong, working perfectly.
Stewart
I like the fact the Truetrac is "clutch-less" (all gears) and doesn't require any friction modifier/special attention. I was just concerned about its operation. I read how it sometimes won't lock when one wheel is spinning and other has less than perfect traction also. The review said tapping the brake would get it going. I guess that would be a rare occurrence. I may revisit the Truetrac. It was one of my first choices (until the review) it is better --price wise, too.
Sorry for the high jack guys,but with the trouble i've been having with my (seemingly) spider gears,is the Eaton posi,a unit that replaces the gears that I would have to replace solving my rear diff. problems,or would I still need to replace the gears in there already?....again,haven't been in too many diffs. before...thanks,sorry again for the high jack....Phil
The Eaton, or any other replacement for that matter, will replace the spider and axle gears. That would take care of the gear problem.
Detroit Truetrac has helical cut gears; no clutches. That is why I'm confused as to what you have. No additive required.
I do think the price difference is worth it, but I'm still weighing my options.
I talked to Cory and he said it is a Detroit Truetrac. He said that his current rear diff is a ford LS. He said he's not having any problems with the ford, but the truetrac hooked a little better.
Roland, it's not in my SuperDuty, but when someone in the Ex forum recently asked about the Truetrac in my Lightning, I told them it's been tons better than the OEM limited slip diff that I replaced it with.
I've done countless burnouts in the water box at Infineon, Famoso, and Sacramento Raceway drag strips, even more laps while autocrossing, and before I got my F250 last year, it was my work truck, pulling a trailer loaded with up to 2k lbs of material regularly. The L was also my daily driver. The Truetrac has never skipped and beat and it's still running strong, working perfectly.
Stewart
Thanks for telling of your experience with the Truetrac. It helped my decision greatly.
Originally Posted by hucka1a
I talked to Cory and he said it is a Detroit Truetrac. He said that his current rear diff is a ford LS. He said he's not having any problems with the ford, but the truetrac hooked a little better.
If the Truetrac stood up to Cory and your still running it, it has to be a tough son of a gun.
I think I'm going to be ordering up a Truetrac in the very near future.
Just to add a little more. I haven't been active on the L boards in over a year, but for all the years I was active, when guys would tear up the OEM limited slip diff, the Truetrac was the main choice for replacement because they have a proven track record in some high HP L's.
Roland, I just had a True-Trac installed in my truck about a month ago, other than the shop screwing up the ring and pinion it seems to work great. Ive gone through a few lockers in different trucks which were all the clutch type, I wore them all out and broke one, so I thought I would try the True-Trac. I havnt got to test it really good yet but the snow will soon be falling, Ill keep ya updated.
Roland, I just had a True-Trac installed in my truck about a month ago, other than the shop screwing up the ring and pinion it seems to work great. Ive gone through a few lockers in different trucks which were all the clutch type, I wore them all out and broke one, so I thought I would try the True-Trac. I havnt got to test it really good yet but the snow will soon be falling, Ill keep ya updated.
Sorry for the hi-jack, but what did they do to your ring and pinion?
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